Milan, Isola district, in an unusually sultry evening to be the beginning of
June. Not so far, by just walking to the end of a street, there is Piazzale
Carlo Archinto, the place where the great Luigi Veronelli was born - his family
had a house right in this square - and here he lived the first part of his life.
Isola district probably is one of the most typical places of the capital of
Lombardy, where, maybe, it can still be found a certain milanese
identity, of what it is left of a Milan of the past and that, today, they
preferred to barter with a frivolous and frantically empty appearance. Isola
district, with its straight streets, it is rich in restaurants and places where
you can spend some good time, placidly sitting at a table: it is quite
impossible not to find the right place for spending some good time. Right this
sultry evening of June seems to be the right occasion to go to a restaurant of
this district, a place I added a long time ago in my personal list of places to
visit.
The restaurant also offers the chance to have a dinner outside, in a gazebo
in the adjacent street. It is a pity to be late: what they can offer is a table
in the inside room, a place near a window looking out to this street, it seems
to promise a sort of relief to the sultry heat. The table is attended by a
waiter who, according to what I can understand, is also the head waiter and
sommelier of the restaurant, he seems to be gentle and welcoming, two qualities
I always appreciate and like. Everything seems to be right - according to what
this place can offer - I am certainly not expecting to have the culinary and
gastronomic experience of my life. Indeed, I certainly expect a lot less: by
considering what I see, I guess the service and quality will be the one you
usually get in an average restaurant. After all, the furniture and table
setting, the organization of service and reception, cannot make me think about
something different from that. So far, so good.
As usual, I focus on wine list as I generally order my meal according to the
wine I wish to have. It is not something I do every time, I however admit this
is what I do most of the times, also according to the restaurant and what they
have in their menu and wine list. In a sultry evening like that, I am thinking
about the relief a fine glass of white wine can give and this seems to be the
right time for having a Fiano di Avellino. The wine list, to tell the truth,
has just one, so I do not have alternatives. It is a wine usually sold in wine
shops at about ten euros, here they serve it at the table for twenty-five. A
pretty high profit for a wine the restaurateur certainly buys for about five
euros: it is obvious it is the common habit of certain restaurateurs who
believe wine is something to speculate on and from which getting high profits.
It is also true that, knowing its wholesale price - I personally know its
producer - and the price at which can be usually found in wine shops, it is up
to me to order it or not. After all, the price is clearly stated in the wine
list, although vintage is missing and this is something I always consider to be
bad.
I admit these high profits always make me think about the typical sly
restaurateur, one of those who believe clients are usually naïve
persons and can be deceived and cheated the way they like. For these
intelligent restaurateurs, wine represents a product from which getting
very high profits, while complaining they do not sell it and have a lot of
bottles in the cellar. They do not understand a wine sold at an honest price
makes they sell a second bottle to the same table and, by uncorking a second
bottle, they may also sell more dishes. The wine I ordered has been brought to
the table, served by this head waiter, whom, after having uncorked the
bottle, turns around and smells the cork. With a smile, takes the bottle and
pours the wine in my glass for a preliminary tasting. I smell the wine and -
alas - it is unequivocally corked. It can happen, of course, although I wonder
what the head waiter smelled when he turned around.
«Pardon me, the wine is corked», I say. «Do you think so?», he replies. «I
think so!», I insist. The head waiter takes the cork from his pocket, still
screwed in the corkscrew, and removes it with his bare hands. This is
not however something I would have passed on: when I order a wine at the
restaurant, I always want them to leave the cork at my table; this is something
I would have asked him anyway. By holding the cork with his hands, he quickly
passes it under my nose: he probably thought that, by doing do, it was quite
impossible for me to smell something. «Sir» - I tell him - «it is so evident
the cork is tainted by TCA». I wonder whether he knows what it is. «It
certainly is the smell of barrique», he says with a huge smile. «Well» - I say
- «this would be quite bizarre as this wine has been aged in a steel tank.
Don't you think so?». I see he has now a surprised and irritated look, then he
says he would have replaced the bottle, of course. He also says, with an
arrogant and conceited voice, he is an expert and that - besides working in
that restaurant - he is a retailer of wine, two things I personally consider
to be aggravating.
He takes the bottle and glass away and, after sometimes, he comes back with a
new bottle. Same ceremonial, he uncorks the bottle and smells the cork. And of
course, the very same funny show: he removes the cork from the corkscrew with
his bare and quickly passes it under my nose. «Pardon me», I say while I
take the cork from his hand by using my table napkin. This time the cork seems
to be right, the head waiter serves the wine and I believe that was the end
of this episode. Food is nothing special, not bad but certainly not fancy, it is
just the same you would get in so many restaurants. The final surprise is
however in the bill. The wine is listed just once - 25 euros - while a dish I
ordered once and sold at 10 euros, is listed twice. In other words, the corked
bottle, paid about 5 euros by the restaurateurs, has been charged with a dish I
did not order and costing twice that amount. Not only the restaurateurs did not
want to lose the cost of the faulty bottle, he also wanted to make a profit of
it. Dear sly restaurateurs and dear expert head waiter and
retailer of wines, besides having behaved in a dishonest and ignoble way, I
will not ever come to your place again and, don't worry about this, I will
spread a very bad word about you and your restaurant whenever I can. And I did
that already. What goes around comes around: I too, sometimes and my way, am
sly.
Antonello Biancalana
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