Good news from the world of wine. At last. For more than one year now – unfortunately – the news regarding wine, in particular sales and market statistics, told us about critical moments and difficulties that wineries have experienced due to the pandemic. Suddenly, the wineries suffered an almost total blockage of sales, mainly due to the suspension of catering activities, probably the category that paid the highest price and suffered the greatest loss as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic. The stocks have obviously increased, creating many difficulties also of a managerial and logistic nature, further weighing on the economic balance. Notoriously, 2020 was very negative in terms of sales for Italian and European wineries, especially towards foreign markets, also due to – but not limited to – the introduction of duties by the United States of America and, no less important, the consequences of Brexit.

 After more than one year of restrictions and limitations on social activities, and therefore also on productive ones, the conditions – at last – seem to allow the gradual resumption of a certain sort of normality. Production and commercial activities are also gradually starting to reopen, thus seeing the concrete possibility of resuming working at full capacity. Among them, the catering and beverage selling activities which, it must be considered, were among those that suffered the most from the consequences of this forced closure. The reopening of production activities in the catering and beverage sector directly affects that of the wineries which – at last – see the possibility of resuming the commercialization of their wines. A reopening that is obviously happening not only in Italy but also in most of Europe and countries around the world.

 The sales figures for the first quarter of 2021 seem to confirm this recovery and, needless to say, it is great news that also give good hope for the immediate future. A recent survey conducted by Ismea and Unione Italiana Vini, based on Istat (the Italian Statistics Institute) data relating to wine exports in the first quarter of 2021, provides very encouraging data. The figures, as a whole, that is in the overall trend of the first quarter, actually shows a negative result. On the other hand, if we consider each month that make up the quarter – January, February and March – there is a growing and clear recovery in wine exports. In fact, the first quarter of 2021 marks, as a whole, a decline of -4% in value and -8.2% in terms of volume. Evaluating the data for each month, January recorded a decline of -19%, February of -11%, while in March the negative streak ends with zero percent. In the third month of this year, therefore, the negative trend has finally stopped.

 In particular, the data recorded in March 2021 show an increase in volume of +7% for bottled sparkling and still wines, while – in terms of overall value – the increase is even +12%. The latter figure takes on greater importance if compared with those of the past two months: in January it was recorded -21% while in February -5%. A positive result was also recorded for sparkling wines, going from -16% at the beginning of the year to +3% in March. As for bottled still and sparkling wines, from the beginning of 2021 – when it was recorded a drop of -23% – the increase was extremely significant with a +16%. Signs of a clear recovery also regarding exports, in particular to the United States of America. The most significant result is achieved by Prosecco which, in the first quarter of 2021, sees its volume of exports to the United States of America increase by even +11%.

 The result of bottled still wines is less brilliant, always referring to exports to the United States of America, which saw a decline of -7% in the first quarter. If we consider, however, the specific value for March, also considering that in January 2021 the exported value had marked a decrease of -44%, in the third month of this year the figure records an important increase of +21%. The wine sector – this is what the results of this survey are showing – is still far from regaining a level of activity in profits, but it is certainly very good news that the negative trend has stopped. There is however more as, in particular in March, there was an extraordinary trend reversal with a strong push towards the positive field, therefore a progression tending to profits and active levels. Even the numbers certifying these data show we are still far from a concrete recovery, but they unequivocally testify a marked and strong rise.

 The total exports relating to the first quarter of 2021, in regard of value, amounted to 1.444 billion of euros, corresponding to a decrease of -3.9% if compared to the same period of 2020. In this regard, however, it should be noted that the end of the first quarter of 2020 had, in turn, marked an increase compared to the same period of 2019. The result of the first quarter of 2021 therefore brings the value of exports back to the level of that of the same period of 2019, when the result was 1.435 billion euros. The positive trend which began in March 2021 also continued in April, thus confirming the good recovery in sales and exports of Italian wine. A recent analysis conducted by the Vinitaly-Nomisma Wine Monitor on a customs basis, in fact, revealed that in April 2021 there was an increase of +26% in exports of Italian wine to the United States of America and even +98% to China.

 The striking result achieved with the Chinese market is actually favored by the recent decision to introduce duties on Australian wine which has therefore seen a drastic “exit” of Australia from China. This event has therefore favored Italy which has now become the third supplier of wine on the Chinese market. In this regard, it should be noted that French wine also achieved a similar result with a greater impact on the Chinese market, in particular Champagne. As for Italy, Chinese demand is particularly interested in red wines of “high quality”, a condition that has therefore led to an increase in the exported value. The premises of the second quarter of 2021, therefore, give good hope for a strong and continuous recovery of the wine market and not only of the Italian one. In fact, consumption has resumed – also thanks to the reopening, at last, of restaurants and bars – and above all exports which have always represented a very important share of profits for Italian wineries. This time seems to be the good one. And may it also be the right time. Let's raise our glasses!

 In summer, when we need to face the inevitable rise in temperatures, wine lovers are certainly happy to uncork bottles of white wines and, not least, sparkling wines, either produced with the classic method or with the Charmat or Martinotti method. From this point of view, the Italian wine scene – from Valle d'Aosta to Sicily – offers a vast choice of bubbles, from extremely simple and light to those complex and of good structure. The discriminating factor is not only the production method used for the refermentation of a wine – the closed tank for the Charmat method, the bottle for the classic one – but also, and above all, the grape or grapes used for the production of the base wine. In this regard, it should be considered not all grapes are suitable for the production of a sparkling wine and that, in any case, it is a choice that begins from the vineyard and the careful evaluation of the ripening cycle.

 It must in fact be considered the wine that will later become sparkling must have a marked acidity and a “modest” alcohol by volume. Furthermore, if the sparkling wine is going to be produced with red berried grapes, it is necessary to further evaluate the astringency as well as the vinification method, that is “in red” or “in white”. Veneto offers an interesting range of sparkling wines and, of which, the most famous and representative one is undoubtedly the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco, also thanks to the impressive number of bottles produced. The tasting by contrast of this summer, however, will not examine this famous sparkling wine, but two other very interesting representatives of the Veneto sparkling wine scene: Asolo Prosecco Spumante and Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante. The first is produced in the homonymous village in the province of Treviso with Glera grape – once better known as “Prosecco” – the second is produced in the province of Padua with Moscato Giallo grape. Both wines are then usually produced with the refermentation in closed tank.

 The Glera grape – until a few years ago known everywhere as Prosecco – is certainly among the most widespread varieties in Veneto and widely used for the production of sparkling wines in the region. This variety is present in many Denominazione d'Origine Controllata areas (Controlled Denomination of Origin, DOC) of Veneto and, in the case of the vast production area of Prosecco DOC, also in Friuli Venezia Giulia. Of all the appellation areas that provides for the use Glera grape for the production of sparkling wines, only two have achieved the highest level of the Italian quality system, the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG): Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco and Asolo Prosecco. Both wines are generally produced by refermentation in closed tank, using the Charmat or Martinotti method. The main variety is Glera which, in both cases, must make up at least 85% of the composition. As for Asolo Prosecco, the remaining 15% can be composed of Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera and Glera Lunga grapes, alone or together.

 Asolo Prosecco, also known as “Colli Asolani Prosecco”, is produced in the territory that extends around the town of the same name in the province of Treviso. Asolo Prosecco is produced in the wine style (that is, still table wine), slightly sparkling, sparkling and aromatic sparkling wine. These last categories can also show in label “sui lieviti” (on the lees), in case the sparkling wine was directly refermented in the bottle and without having carried out the disgorgement. In general terms, Asolo Prosecco Spumante – that is the style we will examine in our tasting by contrast – allows the production of styles determined by residual sugar and going from brut to demi sec. As for the “on the lees” type, the only style allowed is brut nature. Finally, for the sparkling wine typology, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay varieties are also allowed for production – for a maximum of 15% – alone or together. In this regard, however, it should be noted that very often producers tend to use Glera grape alone.

 In the Italian panorama of sparkling wines from aromatic grapes, there is a pearl of absolute value and it is produced in the Colli Euganei area, in the province of Padua. We are of course talking about “Fior d'Arancio” (orange blossom), the famous sparkling wine from Veneto with exuberant aromas of fruits and flowers produced with Moscato Giallo grape (Yellow Muscat), locally called Fior d'Arancio. The wines produced with this grape in the territory of the Colli Euganei, in fact, express very pleasing aromas reminiscent of orange blossom. The history of Moscato Fior d'Arancio is fascinating and its presence in this territory of the province of Padua is long and well rooted. It is also said that – in the past – the must of this grape was being made “sparkling” directly in the bottle, with the method we now call ancestral or rural method. Today it is mainly produced using the Martinotti method, using – today as then – the Moscato Giallo grape.

 Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio is a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita wine (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) and, in addition to the sweet sparkling version, there is also a “still” and passito style, made with dried grapes. In all cases, the production disciplinary provides for the use of Moscato Giallo for at least 95% of the composition, while the remaining part can be represented by other aromatic white grape varieties allowed to the cultivation in the province of Padua. The Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante is characterized, in addition to its marked sweetness, by an alcoholic volume of at least 6%. Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante is a wine with a strong sensorial personality, especially for its aromas which make it practically unique in the scenario of aromatic sparkling wines. Although the production of wine in the Colli Euganei area boasts a long history of centuries – white and red table wines are also produced here – today it is the “Fior d'Arancio” which, undeniably, mainly represents the enology of these lands.

The color of Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante

 We are about to start the tasting by contrast of this summer and, therefore, we will proceed with the choice of the two bottles to be poured into the glasses. The availability of Asolo Prosecco Spumante and Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante does not present, in general terms, particular difficulties as they are both easy to find in specialized wine shops. In choosing the two wines, however, we will pay attention to their composition, by considering that, according to the respective production disciplinary, the two primary grapes – Glera for Asolo Prosecco Spumante, Moscato Giallo for Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante – can be blended to other grapes. For this reason we will make sure that, in both cases, the two main grapes are also the only ones used for their production. We will also choose wines produced with the Martinotti method – therefore in closed tank – and belonging to the most recent vintage. Regarding the style of Asolo Prosecco Spumante, our choice will be in favor of extra dry, while for Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante the choice is in favor of the sweet style. Asolo Prosecco Spumante and Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante are poured into their respective tasting glasses and served at a temperature of 10 °C. (50 °F)

 Let's pour Asolo Prosecco Spumante and Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante into their respective glasses and begin the evaluation of the appearance of the two wines. The first wine we examine is Asolo Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry. By holding the glass in vertical position, we observe the quality of the bubbles which are very fine and develop upwards for a long time. The color of Asolo Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry – evaluated after tilting the glass over a white surface – is brilliant greenish yellow and the nuance, observed at the edge of the glass, towards the opening, confirms the same color. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the effervescence of Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante, by holding the glass in vertical position: also in this case the bubbles are fine and very small, developing a continuous and persistent upward chain. The color of this wine, after having tilted the glass over the white surface, shows a brilliant straw yellow color, sometimes tending to gold. The nuance – observed at the edge of the glass – confirms the same color.

 The olfactory profiles of Asolo Prosecco Spumante and Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante are clearly distinguished by deep and distant differences. Although the production method is the same in both cases – the wines are made in closed tank according to the Charmat or Martintti method – the two wines are characterized by the sensorial qualities of their respective grapes: Glera for Asolo Prosecco Spumante, Moscato Giallo for Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante. In the glass of Asolo Prosecco Spumante can be perceived intense and clean aromas of wisteria, apple, pear and peach, to which are often added hawthorn, broom, tangerine, plum and exotic fruit, in particular pineapple. As for the olfactory profile of Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante, the aromatic exuberance of Moscato Giallo is the dominant quality that can be perceived from the glass, therefore a clean and intense aroma of fresh grapes. Moreover, in this wine, can be perceived aromas reminiscent of flowers such as white rose, jasmine and broom. As for the aromas associated to fruit sensations, in addition to grape, in Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante can be perceived apple, pear, peach, citron and tangerine, as well as sensations reminiscent of tropical fruit, in particular mango and banana.

 Let's continue the tasting by contrast, proceeding with the analysis of the olfactory profiles of the two wines. Just like for the previous phase, the first wine of which we examine the aromas is Asolo Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry. Let's hold the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of the wine, that is its identifying sensations. From the glass are perceived – clean and intense – the aromas of apple, pear, peach and wisteria, the latter very frequent and identifying for sparkling wines produced with Glera grape. After having swirled the glass and proceeded with a second smell, Asolo Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry completes its olfactory profile with hawthorn, citrus fruits – frequently cedar and tangerine – broom, plum and pineapple. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the olfactory profile of Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante, starting from the opening of the wine. From the glass can be perceived the characteristic aroma of fresh grape as well as apple, pear and white rose. After having swirled the glass, the profile of the wine is completed with peach, broom, mango, tangerine and jasmine.

 The sensorial differences of the two wines continue to emerge also when evaluating their respective gustatory profiles. Let's take a sip of Asolo Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry and evaluate its attack, that is, the initial sensations the wine expresses in the mouth. The effervescence of the wine is immediately perceived as well as the marked crispness of acidity, followed soon after by a perceptible sweetness, creating a perfect balance of sensorial elements. In the mouth are clearly perceived the flavors of apple, peach, pear and pineapple. Let's now take a sip of Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante and evaluate its attack. In the mouth can be perceived the pungent effect of the effervescence produced by carbon dioxide and, compared to the previous wine, a sensation of evident sweetness, immediately followed by the crispness given by acidity. Also in this case the balance of the various elements is very good and in the mouth are perceived the flavors of grape, apple, peach, mango and tangerine. Let's now compare the effect and perception of alcohol in the two wines, in particular in Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante, which has a decidedly lower alcohol volume than Asolo Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry.

 We conclude our tasting by contrast by evaluating the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular the taste-olfactory persistence, primary element for evaluating the quality of a wine. The finish of Asolo Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry is persistent, leaving in the mouth pleasing flavors of apple, pear, peach and pineapple, as well as the gentle sensation of sweetness and crispness. The finish of Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Spumante is equally persistent, however here the perception of sweetness is decidedly more marked than the previous wine, however well balanced by acidity. The wine leaves in the mouth pleasing and intense flavors of grape – of grape juice, in particular – as well as banana, pear, peach, apple and mango. Before concluding our tasting, let's place the glasses side by side and, without swirling, let's do a last smell. Note, in particular, the characteristic aromaticity of Moscato Giallo – which is expressed with the clean scent of grape juice – almost absent in the wine produced with Glera.

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