Summer, in addition to the sultry temperatures that characterize this season and which, since some years now, have been constantly and worryingly increasing, is also the period during which those who cultivate the vineyard begin to make predictions about the harvest. In recent years – because of the undeniable climate change that is affecting our planet everywhere – making predictions about the harvest, not only for a vineyard, is becoming more and more complex. Of course, I do not have any technical and scientific knowledge in order to be able to discuss the topic of climate change in a concrete and competent way, however – being a “humble” inhabitant of the planet – I can certainly tell the consequences of what is happening. Including from a purely enological point of view, specifically, the sensorial and organoleptic point of view related to wine. In this regard, I can certainly testify how wine has changed in the last thirty years and which characteristics have mainly been affected by the effect of climate change.

 For example, in recent years the cultivation of the vine has been started in some areas of North Europe – indeed, with interesting results – something that, undeniably, should make us think. Those who manage to profitably cultivate vines in places traditionally unsuitable for enological purposes will certainly be happy, however, this is unequivocally the concrete sign of climate change taking place, in particular the increase in temperatures. Moreover, this last aspect has had – in general terms – an evident impact on the sensorial aspect of the wines produced in recent years. In particular – although this must also be attributed to reasons of fads and trend, therefore the result of specific wine making practices – in recent decades there has been a progressive increase in the alcoholic strength of wines, the accentuation of their roundness and, consequently, the lesser relative perception of acidity.

 The progressive rise in temperatures, and the consequent scarcity of rainfalls – a condition which has frequently happened during this year – determine more or less severe drought conditions and, consequently, the vines and plants in general are forced to face what is called water stress. Adult plants, with well-formed and developed root systems, have some chance of dealing with this condition, in the hope of being able to take advantage of some water reserve in the deeper subsoil, for the young ones, however, the hopes of survival are decidedly lower. A plant in water stress condition – and the vine is obviously no exception – inevitably, in case it survives, tends to produce less fruits, therefore the harvest is drastically reduced. If we then add to this condition other meteorological events – such as hail and frosts – the harvest is further reduced and in a decidedly significant way.

 These are factors generally affecting quantity, not least and in some cases, with consequences also on quality. In any case, the “bizarre” trend of weather conditions over the seasons – even worse, in case there also are extreme events – is certainly one of those things no grower hopes for at the beginning of each year. In this sense, 2021 seems to be a difficult one. Of course, we are talking about the general weather conditions that characterized the current year and with the necessary exceptions for many areas and territories in which, good for them, the weather was decidedly more forgiving. By analyzing the meteorological trend of 2021, in some areas there were frosts in spring, in July there were rains and hail, moreover, during summer we had very high temperatures and very little rainfalls.

 Forecasts for the 2021 harvest are, at least at this moment, uncertain and, in general terms, with significant drops in production compared to 2020 due to weather conditions. The main causes – as already mentioned – are the rather high temperatures in summer and, even more, the scarcity of rainfall. The first certain news regarding the trend of the 2021 harvest has already arrived from the hottest areas of Italy and, not least, from those which are mainly committed to the production of sparkling wines, specifically Franciacorta and Champagne. The news coming from these two famous wine-growing areas – reference territories of sparkling wine production, respectively of Italy and France – are not exactly positive. In fact, in Franciacorta a significant drop in quantities is expected – compared to the 2020 harvest – because of some frosts occurred in April in addition to the consequences of the hail at the end of July.

 These events, which are added to the sultry summer temperatures, influenced the quantity of the harvest, without however affecting – so they say in Franciacorta – the quality of the grapes. The spring frosts also heavily influenced the vineyards in Champagne, in particular Chardonnay vines for which is estimated a loss of about 30% compared to 2020. Same fate for one of the most important red berried varieties of France – Merlot – which being, like Chardonnay, one of the first ones to sprout, suffered losses due to spring frosts. The forecasts for the grape harvest in France seem to be rather negative, so much so that it is expected to be – according to initial estimates – one of the least productive vintages of the last 50 years. These are of course preliminary estimates – considering that the official figures of the French government are usually released in the September – however they would seem to be confirmed by the areas in which the harvest takes place in advance, such as in Champagne.

 As far as Italy is concerned, Coldiretti (an Italian association of farmers and growers) estimates a drop in harvests – compared to 2020 – from 5 to 10%, foreseeing a quantity of wine produced between 44 and 47 million hectoliters. Everyone agrees, from north to south, on the good quality of the grapes that will arrive in our glasses, after having been transformed into wine. It must be said, for the sake of completeness and except for certain southern areas, the harvest in Italy for the production of table wines – therefore excluding sparkling wines – will mainly take place in September and, for certain particular wines, until October. A rather long period that could still hold surprises, both good and bad. Due to the scarcity of rainfall in these months, in fact, in case of rainfalls at the beginning of September, these would certainly be positive, much less in case they are accompanied by hail. In any case, despite the expected drop in quantity compared to 2020 – which, we should not forget this, was not an exactly simple vintage and for many reasons – my sincere wishes to all vintners and wine-makers, I am sure that, as always, they will be able to get the best, with the usual passion distinguishing them all, from their vineyards. To our joy and satisfaction for having in the glasses – as always – excellent wines.

 Emilia-Romagna and Campania, from a wine making point of view, do not have much in common. Very different grapes are grown in their respective vineyards, the wines are – so to speak – the fruit of two different and distinct wine making cultures. The climatic and meteorological conditions occurring over the seasons obviously differ substantially. These conditions are not only determined by the geographical position, but also – and above all – by the morphology of the respective territories and by the orography of these lands. In the two regions, as in every other wine-growing area in the world, the enological styles and ways of making wine have lived through different histories and traditions, also conditioned – not least – by the grape varieties which, over the centuries, have settled and adapted in their respective lands. If on the one hand – for example – in Emilia-Romagna, especially in the western part, the wine culture is still expressed with sparkling wines, this style is, in general terms, rather unusual for the enological history of Campania.

 This month's tasting by contrast compares two white wines produced in Emilia-Romagna and Campania, different in composition and, of course, in character. The wine produced in Emilia-Romagna, in fact, is Colli Bolognesi Superiore Classico Pignoletto, produced with the homonymous grape, while the wine from Campania – Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco – is generally produced with Coda di Volpe, despite its disciplinary provides for the use of as many as four different grapes. In both cases they are native varieties or in any case present in their respective territories for a long time. Obviously, Pignoletto and Coda di Volpe have nothing in common, therefore they make – by themselves – interesting elements for a tasting by contrast. Furthermore, the comparison becomes even more interesting because of the differences of the soils that characterize the two territories: hilly for Colli Bolognesi Superiore Classico Pignoletto, basically volcanic for Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco.

 Pignoletto grape is certainly the white grape variety which, more than any other, represents the enological production of the white wines of the Colli Bolognesi area. For a long time the origin of this variety has been debated, including the etymology of its name, also by supporting hypotheses and theories that – today – thanks to the help of research and science, have allowed us to definitively clarify the origins of this white grape variety. In the past, in fact, it was believed Pignoletto was similar to Pinot Blanc or even to Riesling Italico (name with which in Italy is called Welschriesling grape), however – thanks to comparison and genetic investigation – today we know this variety is actually genetically analogous to Grechetto di Todi, also known as Grechetto Gentile or Grechetto G5 clone. In other words, it is exactly the most famous native white grape of Umbria and that, in any case, it is not clear how it arrived in the lands of Emilia-Romagna. However, it should be noted that in this region Pignoletto started to be first mentioned and spread in the course of the 1800s, with reference to the north-western area near Bologna.

 In any case, it is a variety introduced in recent times in these lands and, very likely, it has come here from the “relatively” nearby Umbria, its land of origin. In Emilia-Romagna, however, Grechetto Gentile enjoys considerable spreading and is commonly found throughout the region, especially in the hills of Bologna and Imola. In this regard, it should be noted in the territory of Colli Bolognesi, Pignoletto is recognized as Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin wine (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita, DOCG) therefore belonging to the highest level of the Italian wine quality system. The production disciplinary provides for frizzante (slightly sparkling), spumante (sparkling), superiore and classico superiore styles, for which is required a minimum quantity of 85% of Pignoletto, with the exception of the classico superiore style, for which the minimum amount must be 95%. As for the aging, it is also allowed the use of the wooden cask.

 Lacryma Christi – literally, Christ's tears – is certainly the most famous and well-known wine of Vesuvio appellation, the renowned Vesuvius volcano of Campania and which surrounding area is recognized as a Denomination of Controlled Origin (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata, DOC). The origin of the name is clearly attributable to popular legends of a Christian religious nature and, in this regard, it should be noted the quality of the wines of these lands was already well-known and appreciated at the time of the ancient Romans. From a regulatory point of view, Lacryma Christi is a special mention of the Vesuvio DOC denomination and is produced in the styles white, rosé, red, sparkling white and fortified white. The production of the white styles involves the use of Coda di Volpe (literally “fox tail”, for a minimum of 35%), Verdeca (45% maximum), Falanghina and Greco (20% maximum) grapes. In this regard, it should be noted that, in most cases, the production of this style of wine is based on the exclusive use of Coda di Volpe variety.

 The allowed varieties for the production of the rosé and red styles are Piedirosso (minimum 50%), Sciascinoso (maximum 30%) and possibly Aglianico (maximum 20%). It should also be noted that for wines called “Lacryma Christi” the maximum yield of grapes into wine must not exceed 65%. Coda di Volpe – the main grape of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco – is a native variety of Campania and is found throughout the entire region. Grape of ancient origins, it was already known at the time of the ancient Romans, appreciated for the quality of its wines. The name derives from the shape of the bunches which, in the lower apical part, tend to “curve” to one side, so to recall the tail of a fox. Variety not easy to grow and from which make wine – it is not very vigorous and gives modest yields, when it reaches full ripeness it is characterized by a high quantity of sugar and a low total acidity – it requires wine making criteria of remarkable quality. Despite these characteristics, many producers in Campania, including those of the Vesuvio area, have been able to prove the interesting potentials of this grape also vinified alone, a custom that – traditionally speaking – was considered unsuitable for Coda di Volpe.

The color of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco

 Let's proceed with the choice of the two bottles that we will pour into our glasses and compare them in this month's tasting by contrast. We will make sure – for both wines – that they belong to the most recent vintage and are produced using inert containers, preferably the steel tank. This wine making characteristic will allow the appreciation of the specific qualities of the wine, in particular the expression of the grapes in relation to the territory and, of course, the result of the secondary organoleptic sensations, that is, those deriving from alcoholic fermentation. As for Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto – despite the production disciplinary provides for the minimum use of 95% of the homonymous grape – we will make sure that it is produced with 100% Pignoletto. We will do the same for Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco, therefore we will make sure the wine is exclusively produced with Coda di Volpe grape. The two wines are poured into tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C (50 °F).

 Let's pour the two wines of this month's tasting by contrast into their respective glasses and begin the sensorial evaluation, examining their appearance, specifically, color and transparency. The first wine we examine is Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto. By tilting the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and by observing the base, let's assess the color. Pignoletto has a bright straw yellow color and high transparency. The nuance, observed near the opening of the glass, reveals a straw yellow color tending to greenish. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco and, as for the previous wine, let's tilt the glass over the white surface. The color of the wine from Campania – observed at the base of the glass – reveals an intense straw yellow hue and high transparency. The nuance, observed at the edge of the glass, towards the opening, reveals a greenish yellow color.

 The aromas expressed by wines produced with Pignoletto and Coda di Volpe grapes are quite different and – in this sense – Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto and Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco are no exception when compared one to each other. Pignoletto, which should be noted is the name with which Grechetto Gentile is traditionally called in Emilia-Romagna, is recognized for the pleasing aromas of fruits and flowers, in particular apple, pear and plum, as well as hawthorn and broom. Just like the wines produced with this grape in Umbria, the homeland of Grechetto Gentile, a pleasing hint of hazelnut and almond is often perceived. Coda di Volpe, in particular in the expression of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco, is characterized by aromas directly recalling apple, pear and peach, frequently followed by sensations reminiscent of exotic fruit, in particular pineapple. Of course, Coda di Volpe wines also express olfactory qualities reminiscent of flowers, in particular hawthorn and broom, sometimes followed by acacia.

 Let's resume the sensorial analysis of the wines of our tasting by contrast, by examining the respective olfactory profiles. Just like the previous phase, let's start from Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto. By holding the glass of this wine in vertical position and, without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell in order to appreciate its opening aromas, that is the identifying ones. On the nose we appreciate aromas of apple, pear, plum as well as the floral sensation in which can be recognized hawthorn. After having swirled the glass, let's do the second smell which will complete the olfactory profile of Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto with broom, peach and pineapple as well as sensations reminiscent of citrus fruits, hazelnut and almond. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco, in particular, to the opening aromas. From the glass emerge aromas of apple, pear and peach and a floral note in which can be recognized broom. After having swirled the glass, the olfactory profile of the wine from Campania is completed with plum, pineapple, hawthorn, acacia, almond and, frequently, a pleasing hint of anise.

 Let's now proceed with the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the wines of our tasting by contrast, starting – like in the previous phases – from Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto. Let's take a sip of this wine and evaluate the attack, that is its primary and identifying gustatory sensations. In the mouth can be immediately perceived the crispness given by the acidity as well as a sensation of good structure. The wine finds its balance thanks to the effects of alcohol as well as the moderate sensation of roundness. In the mouth are perceived, confirming a good correspondence to the nose, the flavors of apple, pear and plum. Let's now move on to the gustatory evaluation of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco and take a sip of this wine in order to appreciate its attack. In the mouth we immediately perceive a good acidity that finds balance both with the action of alcohol and roundness, generally more intense than the previous wine. The structure of this wine is very good and in the mouth are perceived the flavors of pear, apple, peach and pineapple.

 We have reached the final phase of the tasting by contrast of this month, therefore let's evaluate the final sensations the wines leave in the mouth, in particular the taste-olfactory persistence, primary factor in the quality of every wine. After having swallowed the sample of Colli Bolognesi Classico Superiore Pignoletto, in the mouth we can appreciate a good persistence in which we continue to perceive the sensation of crispness in addition to the flavors of apple, plum and hazelnut, as well as a pleasant bitter sensation in which we can recognize almond. The finish of Vesuvio Lacryma Christi Bianco is persistent and the pleasing crispness continues to be perceived in the mouth as well as a slightly more intense sensation of roundness than the wine from Emilia-Romagna. In the mouth are clearly perceived the flavors of pear, apple, peach and pineapple. Let's now place the two glasses next to each other and proceed with the last comparative smell: the aromas expressed by the two wines are still clearly different and distant.

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