After a long period – indeed very long – of restrictions and social upheavals imposed by the Covid-19 pandemic, conditions seem to finally allow us a certain recovery, both socially and in our habits. 2020 and 2021 have notoriously imposed very heavy restrictions on social and health conditions all over the world and which have also heavily affected the global economy. In this last sense, very hard times are still ahead, with really worrying conditions and which, by now, are no longer directly and solely attributable to the causes of the pandemic. In the past few months I have written several times about the economic results achieved by the Italian wine in the world, which – especially in 2021 – have been very positive, giving back, at least in part, some optimism in the future of producers. The enthusiasm has however and partly been cooled down by the results of 2022 which, due to the economic and production conditions of the first months of the year – not least, the current ones – such to make everyone expect a decidedly difficult year.

 Of course, wine is not only Italy and, although in our country the results of 2021 were very positive, it is also appropriate to consider the global situation of the world vineyard, in order to better understand the wine market in its entirety. The analysis of the vitivinicultural worldwide condition was recently conducted by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), which shows a substantial stalemate both in the production and in the consumption of wine. The study focused on 2021 only, the year during which the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic were quite important – although recovering compared to 2020 – with significant restrictions in the sectors mainly affected by the sale of wine, such as restaurants and bar. Wine trade was therefore realized with sales made in direct distribution channels, such as wine shops, supermarkets and e-commerce. An almost obligatory choice, given the restrictions in the social order and which has forced people to stay at home.

 The research of the OIV, therefore, considers the worldwide situation of wine as a whole, derived from the result determined by all the wine producing countries of the world. The first figure emerging from this study, in 2021 the total area destined for the cultivation of vines – therefore, for vineyards – has substantially been stable with 7.32 million hectares, marking a decrease of -0.3% compared to 2020, a figure which is practically the same since 2017. The International Organisation of Vine and Wine believes this stagnation condition is due to the slowdown in the growth of Chinese vineyards. As far as the old world situation is concerned, the “European vineyard” – representing 46% of the world total – appears to be growing. The data include the areas of land destined to the production of wine and table grapes, musts and raisins, including young vineyards not yet productive. In this regard, it should be noted the decreasing trend in the area of land destined to vine cultivation began in 2004, reaching a stabilization in 2017.

 According to the OIV, Italy, France, China and Iran are leading the growth of the world vineyard, while important wine-growing countries in the Southern Hemisphere, with the exception of Australia and New Zealand, all record a decrease in the area of land destined to viticulture, especially Argentina and South Africa. Among the other countries to mark a decrease in area we find the United States of America, Turkey and Moldova. The production of wine in 2021 was equal to 260 million hectoliters, with a decrease of 1% compared to 2020. If it is true the “world vineyard” is in slight decline, including wine production, what has recorded an increase –  albeit modest – is the consumption of wine in the world. In 2021, in fact, 236 million liters were consumed, representing an increase of 1% compared to 2020. In this regard, it should be noted in the past three years there have always been drops in consumption, therefore 2021 marks a recovery in this sense, albeit modest.

 In this regard, it should be noted – according to the OIV study – that 48% of the wine produced in the world is consumed within the European Union, despite a progressive decline in per capita consumption, since the beginning of the 2000s. Outside the European borders, there is a significant drop in consumption in China, falling below one liter per capita per year. The United States of America remain – also in 2021 – the main wine consumers in the world, pouring 33 million hectoliters into their glasses, followed by France, with 25, then Italy, with 24. The country where the highest annual per capita consumption of wine is recorded is Portugal – with 45 liters – followed by Italy, with 40, then France with 38. The lowest annual per capita wine consumption is recorded in all countries outside Europe and, specifically, in the last three places we find Japan – with 2.5 liters per year – then Brazil with just under two liters, finally China with just 0.7 liters per capita per year.

 Overall, 2021 was nevertheless a positive year for the global wine trade. Over the course of last year, the volume of exports stood at 111.6 million hectoliters, with an increase of +4% compared to 2020, a result which is the best ever. This increase was also recorded in terms of value, with an increase of +16% compared to 2020 and a total of 34.3 billion euros. The good result of exports is driven by bottled wine, in particular +6% compared to 2020 for still wines and +13% for sparkling wines, recording an increase in the volume of exports of +22% and +35% by value. The bulk wine market records an increase, compared to 2020, of +5% in terms of volume, however recording a -5% in terms of value. Regarding the market for the so-called Bag-in-Box, there was a significant drop of -8% in terms of volume and -1% in value.

 According to the OIV study, the main wine exporting countries are Spain, Italy and France which – alone – make up 54% of world exports, equal to 59.8 million hectoliters and 64% in terms of value. In the ranking of exports, Spain is in the first place with 23 million hectoliters, +14% compared to 2020 and 2.9 billion euros in value, with an increase of +10%. It then follows Italy with 22.2 million hectoliters, +7% and 7.1 billion euros in value, +13% compared to 2020. In third place we find France with 14.6 million hectoliters – with an increase of +8% – equal to 11.1 billion euros in value and +27% compared to 2020. As for imports, Germany, the United States of America and the United Kingdom make 38% of the total volume, equal to 42 million hectoliters, for a value of 13.1 billion euros. Finally, if we consider the results of imports, it is clear that 47% of the wine consumed in each country was produced abroad. In other words, one in two bottles poured into the glasses was imported. Wine, therefore, is confirmed to be an important product of the global economy, protagonist of the globalization of the market, a trend that has been occurring for several years now.

 Over the last recent years, in this column, we have proposed tastings of wines produced with decidedly different grapes, not least, originating from geographically distant territories, therefore different in any aspect. The tasting by contrast that we are about to propose certainly belongs to this kind of study, as both the grapes and territories have nothing in common. Although this type of tasting may be considered too simple, in reality it represents a very important chance of study for the training of the taster. Indeed, it is thanks to these distant differences the study of the elements of comparison – the two wines, in our case – become more easily and clearly definable and understandable. As soon as the qualities of the individual varieties are learned, including their respective territorial expressions, their recognition and study in sensorial terms becomes more “simple”, despite the concept of sensorial simplicity is – in itself – very complex and vast.

 In this sense, the value of memory, together with continuous practice, become decisive for the taster's training, regardless of the element being studied, wine in our case. The wines we will pour this month into the glasses, in fact, are produced with Pinot Noir – the undisputed king of elegant and fine wines – and Montepulciano, equally and not least “king”, with a powerful character and huge personality. To this we add two very different territories: Alto Adige (South Tyrol) and Conero. The former is located in the Alpine and pre-Alpine territory of Italy – therefore rather high altitudes and a decidedly “cold” climate – the latter is found in the homonymous promontory of the Marches region and strongly affected by the influence of the Adriatic Sea. In the glasses we will therefore have two very different wines however very interesting in their individual sensorial and territorial expressions, such as to highlight the respective differences in clear and indisputable evidence.

 Pinot Noir is an extraordinary grape, capable of creating wines of absolute elegance and unattainable class. But it is also a very difficult grape to grow and, not least, to make wine from it, as it is demanding in every aspect, from the vineyard to the glass. Moreover, Pinot Noir is also particularly demanding in environmental and cultural terms, a primary and fundamental requirement for making a great wine with this variety, regardless of the style. In this sense, it can be said that – in the world – there are very few Pinot Noir lands and, among them, South Tyrol can certainly be considered one of them in Italy. Burgundy – of course – remains the motherland of this variety vinified in red, in which greatness of elegance and finesse are expressed in a way difficult to reach in other parts of the world. Despite this, in Alto Adige Pinot Noir wines expressions of the highest quality and elegance can be found, often capable of reaching the class of Burgundy and – in some cases – even surpassing it.

 Pinot Noir arrived in South Tyrol in the early 1800s, introduced here by the royals of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In these lands, the famous variety of Burgundy has found an ideal and favorable environment, with particular success in the areas of Mazon, near Egna, Gleno and Pinzano near Montagna, all being located south from Bolzano. In addition, Pinot Noir wines produced in Val Venosta, in the western part of the region, are also of particular interest. Pinot Noir is a notoriously difficult variety to grow and to turn into wine, last but not least, demanding in terms of climate and environment, and not very tolerant to high temperatures. South Tyrol, therefore, appears to be a favorable environment for Pinot Noir, while fully preserving the difficulty of cultivation and production. Its undisputed finesse and elegance, well supported by pleasing acidity, also requires proper enological practices in order to preserve these qualities. For this reason, wines produced with Pinot Noir require a careful and scrupulous use of the cask – which is certainly useful – in order to avoid the excessive rounding of the wine, nevertheless, the loss of the class of its aromas, by turning it into an ordinary and anonymous wine.

 The environmental and climatic conditions of Conero, the famous promontory of the Marches overlooking the Adriatic Sea, south from Ancona, are totally different. In these lands the queen grapes are Montepulciano and Sangiovese, in particular the first of them, favored in the course of the years over the second. In this regard, it should be noted in this territory are defined two distinct denominations: Rosso Conero and Conero; the first is a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) the second is also Garantita (Guaranteed, DOCG). The current composition of the wines of this territory provides for Montepulciano for a minimum of 85% and the remaining part of Sangiovese, if any. The choice is clearly suitable for this territory as, in these lands, it is clearly Montepulciano to express a better enological potential, so much so that producers tend to use it alone. The only wine provided by the Conero DOCG denomination is the Rosso Riserva (red reserve) and – according to the production disciplinary – the definition “riserva” must appear on the label under the heading “Denomminazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita”.

 Montepulciano is the variety that strongly characterizes Conero wines. Grape of remarkable personality, in this denomination it is capable of producing powerful wines with a rich organoleptic profile. In this regard, it should be noted that, despite the two denominations of this territory provide for the use of the same grapes and percentages, Conero DOCG wines must be aged for at least two years before being marketed. This practice is generally carried out in casks or barriques, therefore producing a wine of fuller structure while nevertheless developing an appreciable roundness, often essential to mitigate Montepulciano's character. Although Montepulciano is very common in the Marches and widely used for the production of red wines of the region, including appellation wines, Conero stands out for the power of its wines, often accentuated by a proper enological practices and, not least, by the careful cultivation in the vineyard in order to favor low yields. In this regard, it should be noted the production disciplinary provides for a yield not greater than 90 quintals per hectare, however in the best wines of the Conero, this value is decidedly lower.

The color of Conero

 Before starting this month's tasting by contrast between Alto Adige Pinot Nero and Conero, let's find the two bottles we will pour into the glasses. In both cases, finding the bottles is not difficult as they are wines which are well distributed and available in any wine shop. As Conero is in most cases aged in cask or barrique, in choosing Alto Adige Pinot Nero we will make sure the same enological procedure has been used. In particular, for both wines we will give preference to those aged in large casks, a practice – it must be said – quite common for Alto Adige Pinot Nero, but not for Conero, as it is often aged in barrique. The choice of the large cask, and possibly for the same period of time, allows a better appreciation of the specific qualities of the respective varieties, while avoiding excessive influences from the wood. Furthermore, as for Conero, we will make sure it is produced with 100% Montepulciano. The vintage must be the same for both wines and, in any case, no more than three years from harvesting. The wines are poured into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C (64 °F).

 Let's start our tasting by contrast, examining the appearance of the two wines, first proceeding with the analysis of Alto Adige Pinot Nero. We tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the base, where the thickness of the liquid mass is greater. We can see a brilliant and intense ruby red color, while transparency – evaluated by placing an object between the glass and the white surface – is moderate. Let's now shift our attention towards the opening of the glass, where the wine becomes thin, and observe the nuances of Alto Adige Pinot Nero. The color that can be seen is also in this case ruby red, confirming the base color. Let's now pass to the observation of the aspect of Conero and, by holding the glass tilted over the white surface, let's observe the color. The difference with Alto Adige Pinot Nero is immediately evident: the color of the wine from Marches is decidedly darker and more intense, although also in this case a ruby red color can be observed, and transparency is decidedly lower. The nuance of Conero – observed at the edge of the glass, towards the opening – is characterized by a ruby red color, sometimes tending to garnet.

 The olfactory profiles of Pinot Noir and Montepulciano are extremely different, not least, decidedly distant. The red from Burgundy is widely considered among the main varieties capable of making wines with an olfactory profile of marked elegance and finesse, mainly thanks to its fresh aromas of red pulp fruit and flowers. Montepulciano, also capable of expressing elegance in its wines, can be recognized for aromas more strongly represented by dark pulp fruits and flowers, as well as a “vinous” character which is typical of this variety, especially in young wines. In wines produced with Pinot Noir are mainly perceived aromas of cherry, raspberry and strawberry – as regards the world of fruits – as well as rose and cyclamen, as regards the world of flowers. On the other hand, the profile of Montepulciano is fuller and more “robust”, mainly characterized by black cherry, plum, blueberry and blackberry, as well as violet and, sometimes, cyclamen. The profiles of these two wines, considering the typical enological practices used for their production, are also enriched by tertiary characteristics contributed by the aging in wood, usually more “marked” in Montepulciano rather than in Pinot Noir.

 Let's resume the sensorial evaluation of the two wines of our tasting by contrast, analyzing their olfactory profiles and starting with Alto Adige Pinot Nero. Let's hold the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell in order to appreciate the opening of the wine, that is, its identifying aromas. Alto Adige Pinot Nero immediately expresses its characteristic aromas of cherry, raspberry and strawberry as well as the elegant aroma of rose. Let's now swirl the glass – an operation favoring the oxygenation of the wine, therefore the development of the remaining aromas – and let's proceed with the second smell. The profile of Alto Adige Pinot Nero is completed with plum, blueberry and cyclamen, in addition to the aromas given by the aging in wood, in particular vanilla. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the opening of Conero and, by holding the glass in vertical position, without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell. The wine from Marches can be appreciated for its “full” aromas of black cherry, plum and blueberry, as well as violet, followed by the vaguely vinous character, typical of Montepulciano. After having swirled the glass, the olfactory profile of Conero is completed with blackberry and sometimes black currant. Again, the tertiary aromas of cask aging are clearly perceptible, in particular vanilla and chocolate.

 Let's now pass to the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of Alto Adige Pinot Nero and Conero, starting with the analysis of the wine from South Tyrol. The first quality we will examine is the attack, that is the primary and initial sensation the wine expresses in the mouth at the first sip. Pinot Noir and, in this sense, those produced in South Tyrol are obviously no exception, is characterized by an attack in which the crispness given by acidity is clearly evident, very pleasing and elegant. Astringency – despite the aging in wood is not excessive or aggressive – is in any case perceptible. These two sensorial qualities find immediate balance both with the effect of alcohol and with the roundness produced by aging in wood. In the mouth are perceived flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry, with good correspondence to the nose. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the attack of Conero: the sensation of fuller structure and astringency are clearly perceived compared to Pinot Noir. Also the perception of roundness and the pseudo-burning effect of alcohol are clearly evident and of greater intensity than in Alto Adige Pinot Nero. In the mouth can be perceived the flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry.

 Let's conclude this month's tasting by contrast by proceeding with the evaluation of the final sensations the wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular, the taste-olfactory persistence. The first wine we take into consideration, just like in the previous phases, is Alto Adige Pinot Nero. The finish of the wine from South Tyrol is persistent, leaving in the mouth the pleasing crispness given by acidity, a sensation which is dominant – although perfectly balanced – compared to other organoleptic qualities. In fact, the pleasing astringency and roundness of alcohol are also perceived, well supported by the flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry. The finish of Conero – therefore of Montepulciano – is equally persistent and, compared to the South Tyrol wine, the sensation mainly perceived in the mouth are structure and astringency, therefore the roundness and the effect of alcohol. In the mouth – intense and clean – are perceived flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry. Let's do a final evaluation of the olfactory and gustatory profiles of Alto Adige Pinot Nero and Conero. The differences are very distant and evident, in every single sensorial and organoleptic aspect.

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