Here we go again. Since I started working in the world of wine – at the beginning of the 1990s – the market cyclically “rewards” one style of wine over others, winning the favor of consumers. When this happens, wineries are forced to modify and adapt production in order to satisfy the fad of the moment, therefore trying to remain in the market. When I started being into wine, the style that enjoyed the greatest favor in Italy among consumers was white and, in particular, those produced with Pinot Gris, especially from the north-eastern Italian territories. Competing for the market for these Pinot Gris wines was a white from Tuscany, in particular from the Chianti Classico area, specifically created for the market needs of those years by using the surpluses of white grapes. That wine earned honors on the tables of the 1980s and much of the following decade, establishing itself with a name that certainly many still remember: Galestro.

 At that time, white wines were faithful and consistent with this chromatic adjective: looking at them in the glass they appeared much paler than greenish yellow, generally considered the palest shade for these wines. They even went so far as to introduce the descriptor “white paper”, as they were so “white”, with the specific aim of describing these wines that were so popular. Furthermore, in the menus of restaurants and pizzerias, in addition to these wines, there were invariably also certain captivating bottles of whites and rosés from Portugal, as well as a pretty long selection of slightly sparkling wines, which stood out for their slender Rhine bottles. When we went to a pizzeria with friends, if we decided to pair pizza with wine, in the majority of cases, it was one of these bottles that was poured into the glasses. The same happened, not infrequently, at the restaurant too. White wines were definitely on the top of the list – or rather, to be precise, those white wines – and were the unmistakable sign of “fashionable connoisseurs”.

 Fads, indeed. Wine, like any other “product” – in a broad and general sense – is evidently no exception to this type of phenomenon. Fads come and go, including those about wines. That habit of drinking white wine, which seemed unstoppable, inevitably came to an end and was replaced by an interest in red wines, especially, in Italy, the barriccati ones (meaning, aged in barrique). The new fad had arrived and the consumption of white wines recorded a notable decline: everywhere the glasses were colored red and the dominant aroma of the important wines was that of “barrique”. Then the whites returned again. Then came the turn of the reds which were so robust they could almost be chewed. Then the bubbles, again the whites aged in wood, then the reds light and immediate, then the rosés, then everything repeats and will repeat over and over again. Today, it seems, consumers are once again favoring white wines alongside rosés. The reds get off the podium and go backwards, recording a sharp drop in sales.

 This time, however, the drop of red wines in the preferences of consumers seems to be significant as well as sensational. According to data released by the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV), white and rosé wines currently make up more than half of global consumption. A change and progression that even records an increase in the United States of America of 65% in the period from 2000 to 2021 and in relation to white wines alone. This trend – in accordance with what was released by the OIV – is recorded, in general terms, in every country in the world, especially in recent years. The prestige of the so-called important red wines – that is to say, the robust ones and in particular aged in barrels – seems to be declining almost everywhere and market demands, including consumption preference, is constantly decreasing. Furthermore, forecasts would seem to suggest that this decline could even increase in the coming years.

 Everyone is crazy about whites, rosés and bubbles, it seems. Perhaps – this is what they think – the current consumer preference towards white wines and sparkling wines, including rosés, is mainly due to their alcohol volume, generally lower than reds. In addition to this, I would personally also add the “fad” factor, as has happened many other times, probably favored by the general interest of consumers in preferring more immediate and direct, simple and aromatic wines, to be drunk in a casual way. In this sense, the so-called “ready to drink” wines, white, rosé and Charmat sparkling wines in particular, are capable of satisfying this request much more easily than any red wine. The data, evidently, speak clearly: in 2021, 43% of the wines consumed in the world were white, while reds dropped to 47%. In this sense, the figure from France is significant, where the consumption of red wines has actually decreased by 15%, while whites have grown by 10% and rosés by 17%. In this regard, we certainly remember what recently happened in France, in particular in Bordeaux, with the authorization to uproot red grape vineyards because of the lower demand for this style of wine.

 Furthermore, the progression of sparkling wines in Germany, the United Kingdom and the United States of America is significant, where they are conquering increasingly important market shares and – in certain aspects – compensating for the general decrease in consumption in the main European wine-growing countries. The only nations in which red wines are enjoying a growing interest are China, Germany and the United States of America, despite the fact that the latter country has the highest consumption of white wine in the world, with an increase of 65% in the last twenty years. Furthermore, the consumption of white wines is also recording significant increase in Australia and Russia, as well as in the United Kingdom, where there is also a clear increase in the consumption of rosés. As regards Italy, in the last twenty years the consumption of white wines has increased by 10%, rosés by 15.4%, while red wines have decreased by 30.6%. The most direct consequence is, inevitably, the adaptation of production, now in favor of white and rosé wines and sparkling wines, sacrificing red wines.

 Statistics about the consumption of red wine in 2021 see the United States of America in the first place. As regards red wines, in fact, consumption in this country recorded 11.5 million hectolitres, followed by China (9.8), Germany (9.6) then France (9.1), Italy (9) followed by Russia (5.9), Argentina (5.8), Spain (5.6), United Kingdom (5.4), Brazil (2.9) and Portugal (2.7). The United States of America was also first in 2021 in the consumption of white wines, with 18.3 million hectoliters, followed by Italy (14.2), Germany (8.4), France (6.6), the United United Kingdom (4.2), Spain (4.2), Australia (3), Romania (2.4) and Argentina (2.2). These data certainly make us think: not only does the highest wine consumption occur in a non-European country, but above all that in the historic countries of the old continent both consumption and production are decreasing. Many attribute this change to the European Union's recent campaigns in favor of reducing alcohol consumption, others to sanctions and restrictions regarding the maximum blood alcohol level permitted for driving vehicles. Perhaps, more simply, is it yet another trend in wine consumption which has practically always seen one style prevailing over others?

 In the scenario of wine production, sweet wines from dried grapes represent a decidedly marginal share. The majority of them are produced with white grapes and the red ones represent a decidedly small percentage. Perhaps it is also for this reason that sweet red wines made from dried grapes are generally considered special, undoubtedly “rare”. In fact, if we consider the Italian denominations of origin, the number of sweet red wines made from dried grapes represents a decidedly minimal share. If it is true that producing a quality sweet wine from dried grapes is certainly difficult, the production of red ones is undoubtedly even more difficult. The main cause is due to the presence of a component that is decidedly troublesome to manage together with sugar: tannins and, therefore, the consequent astringency in sensorial terms. However, when the magic of this union occurs, the result is absolutely interesting and valuable.

 Because of their specific and particular characteristics, the sensorial tasting of sweet red wines from dried grapes represents an interesting opportunity of study for the taster. These wines, in fact, when compared to sweet whites from dried grapes, build their balance through factors and sensations exclusive to the style, sharing only the sweet taste and roundness, the latter given by alcohol and aging. This means, not least, that during the sensorial tasting of sweet red wines from dried grapes, it is essential to evaluate the contribution of astringency in relation to the general balance of the wine. This sensorial stimulus, in fact, requires the right “contrast” of sweetness, roundness and alcohol. To understand this particular sensorial condition, this month we will pour into our glasses two important sweet red wines from dried grapes, Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito. These two wines, in fact, despite belonging to the same style, are characterized by the enormous difference perceived in the mouth by the respective intensities of astringency.

 The history of Recioto della Valpolicella is inextricably linked to that of Amarone. The famous red from the province of Verona is in fact son of Recioto, a wine which – in fact – has a much longer history. It is no coincidence that, in Valpolicella, Amarone is traditionally defined as a Recioto scapà, that is “a run away Recioto”, in the sense that the fermentation of the sugars has gone too far so as to make the wine dry and bitter, that is, no longer sweet. The powerful structure of the wine and the absence of sweetness, then, earned it the name by which it is known throughout the world: Amarone, literally “big bitter”. Even the name recioto has an evocative origin, since – so tradition has it – it is produced with the recie (dialect for “ears”) of the bunches, that is the upper and lateral parts, those more exposed to sunlight, therefore richer in sugars. The grapes are then dried on racks, in special rooms, therefore crushed and fermented.

 Recioto della Valpolicella is recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin, DOCG), the highest level provided by the Italian quality system. From a historical point of view, it is believed that Recioto della Valpolicella is the direct descendant of the legendary acinatico, praised in 500 AD by Cassiodorus, who described it as “royal in color…dense and fleshy… drinkable purple of incredible sweetness… pure wine with a regal color and a special flavor, so that you think either that the purple is dyed by the wine itself or that its clear humor is expressed by the purple”. Furthermore, Cassiodorus also described the production technique, a process not dissimilar to the one currently used for Recioto della Valpolicella. The main grapes composing it are the same ones used for the production of the red wines of this territory: Corvina and Corvinone – present from 45 to 95% – Rondinella – from 5% to 30% – and possibly other grapes allowed in the territory.

 Contrary to Amarone and Recioto, the enological history of “dry” and passito Montefalco Sagrantino follow two different paths, having in common only the grape with which they are produced. Montefalco Sagrantino Passito, in fact, is a wine having a long and significant history, while the dry table style saw its birth only a few decades ago as a consequence of completely distinct viticultural and wine making practices. The “dry” Montefalco Sagrantino, in fact, is produced with ripe grapes allowed to ferment immediately after the harvest, while the passito style is produced with grapes allowed to dry on racks, then crushed and fermented. The history and enological roots of Montefalco can therefore be found both in its extraordinary grape as well as in its sweet wine made from dried grapes. The “dry” style, however, represents the recent and modern history of Montefalco enology, well supported – without a shadow of a doubt – by the historic “raisin” style, a unique wine of its kind and, certainly, modern and alive.

 Montefalco Sagrantino – both dry and passito – is recognized by the Italian quality system as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin, DOCG) and is produced exclusively with Sagrantino grapes. Regardless of the style, Montefalco Sagrantino is characterized by the powerful structure and astringency of the tannins, which are decidedly accentuated. In this regard, it must in fact be noted that Sagrantino is the wine grape with the highest content of polyphenols, a characteristic which is found directly in its wines as well as being a distinctive quality. This aspect is present – not least – even in the passito style, a quality that can sometimes disorientate the tasting right because of the unusual presence of the notable astringency combined with sweetness. This characteristic generally finds the right balance thanks not only to the marked sweetness, but also to the effect of alcohol and the roundness given from barrel aging. Montefalco Sagrantino Passito is therefore a wine of enormous personality, certainly unique in the wine scene in an absolute sense.

The Color of Montefalco Sagrantino Passito

 The wines we pour into the glasses of this month's tasting by contrast are not so difficult to find. In fact, both Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito are wines well present on the shelves of wine shops, certainly in the most well-stocked ones. As regards Recioto della Valpolicella, we will choose a bottle produced with Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella. Furthermore, we will make sure the aging of the wine has been carried out in large barrels. Also for the choice of Montefalco Sagrantino Passito we will pay attention to the winemaking procedures, therefore preferring a wine aged in large cask. As regards the vintage of the two wines, in both cases we will choose bottles belonging to the most recent vintage available on the market. Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito are served in tasting glasses at a temperature of 16°C. (61 °F)

 We are now ready to pour the wines into their respective glasses and begin our tasting by contrast, starting with Recioto della Valpolicella. We tilt the glass over a white surface – as usual, a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the base of the glass, thus evaluating the color. The Venetian wine has an intense and brilliant ruby red color, while as regards transparency – evaluated by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface – it can be defined as moderate and basically low. Let's now evaluate the nuance of the wine, therefore pay our attention towards the opening of the glass, where the wine becomes thin. The nuance of Recioto della Valpolicella is characterized by an evident garnet red hue. Let's move on to evaluating the appearance of Sagrantino Montefalco Passito and, by observing the base of the glass, evaluate its color and transparency. At sight it reveals an intense and dark ruby red, with a decidedly low transparency. The nuances of Umbrian wine are garnet red.

 The aromas of Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito reveal to the nose, in certain aspects, common characteristics and generally perceptible in sweet wines produced from dried grapes. In both cases, in fact, the nose is dominated by sensations of fruits which are mainly reminiscent of black cherry, plum, blueberry and blackberry, as well as floral aromas mainly reminiscent of dried violets. In this regard, however, both the intensity of the individual stimuli and the dominance must be considered. In Recioto della Valpolicella, in fact, the identifying aromas are initially expressed with black cherry and plum, while in Montefalco Sagrantino Passito the blackberry is the dominant olfactory quality, followed by black cherry and plum. Furthermore, in these two wines, an important role is played by aging – in the majority of cases in barrel – and by time. These two factors, in fact, substantially influence the olfactory characteristics of the two wines, obviously enriching them with tertiary sensations and spices. In both wines balsamic aromas are perceived and frequently recalling menthol, as well as ethereal sensations mainly represented by nail polish.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the analysis of the olfactory profiles of Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito, starting – as in the previous examination – from the Venetian wine. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening, that is, the primary and identifying aromas of the wine. Recioto della Valpolicella expresses to the nose intense and pleasing aromas of black cherry, plum and blackberry, followed by dried violet. Sometimes, according to the producer's style and specific winemaking procedures, fruity aromas can also take on a jammy character. After having swirled the glass, the profile of the Venetian wine is completed with a sequence of tertiary aromas in which we recognize vanilla, cinnamon, cocoa, often mace, as well as balsamic sensations of menthol. Furthermore, in this wine it is frequently possible to perceive the scent of dried rose. Let's now move on to evaluating the opening of the Montefalco Sagrantino Passito: on the nose we clearly perceive the scent of blackberry, followed by black cherry, plum and dried violet. After having swirled the glass, the profile of the wine is completed with blueberry and tamarind, in addition to the tertiary sensations of vanilla, chocolate, tobacco, cinnamon, pink pepper and mace, as well as the pleasing balsamic sensation of menthol.

 Let's now move on to the evaluation of the gustatory profile of the two wines, starting – as in the previous phases – from Recioto della Valpolicella. Let's take a sip of the Venetian wine in order to evaluate its attack, that is, the primary and identifying gustatory sensations. In the mouth we immediately perceive the pleasing sweetness followed by the roundness of alcohol and aging, as well as a moderate and pleasing sensation of astringency, therefore achieving gustatory balance. The flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry are clearly perceived in the mouth, with good structure and decidedly low acidity. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the attack of Montefalco Sagrantino Passito and take the first sip. In the mouth you can immediately perceive the sweetness promptly followed by the astringency of tannins, decidedly more intense and fuller than Recioto della Valpolicella. We can also perceive the roundness given by the effect of alcohol and aging, a decidedly more robust and fuller structure than the other wine. Finally, in the mouth we can also perceive the flavors of blackberry, plum and black cherry.

 We have reached the end of this month's tasting by contrast, so let's proceed with the evaluation of the final sensations that the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing. One of the main aspects of this test consists in the evaluation of taste-olfactory persistence, that is, the measurement of the time during which it is possible to clearly perceive the gustatory qualities of the wine in the mouth. The finish of Recioto della Valpolicella is persistent and in the mouth we can clearly perceive the intense flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry, as well as the pleasing sweetness contrasting the astringency of the tannins, which are overall round and pleasing. Even the finish of Montefalco Sagrantino Passito is equally persistent and the flavors of blackberry, black cherry and plum are clearly perceived in the mouth. In this wine we can also perceive the stronger effect of astringency as well as the sensation of fuller structure. Furthermore, the sweetness and roundness are clearly perceptible in the mouth, as well as the pseudo-caloric effect of alcohol. Before concluding, let's proceed with the final smell of the two wines: on the nose they still express a clear difference, despite the strong and common presence of sensations of black and red fruits.

 In this section are published news and information about events concerning the world of wine and food. Whoever is interested in publishing this kind of information can send us a mail to our address.