Counter-Order: Youngsters Love Wine. And Vineyard, Too.

 It was news a few months ago, in which was made known the disinterest of the new generations in consuming wine, also predicting a progressive decline in consumption for the next 15 years. The fact that wine consumption is not having – so to speak – an exciting time is no longer news, especially that of red wine, ousted from its throne by whites, rosés and sparkling wines. In this sense, information campaigns have certainly played a decisive role as well as the lowering of the legal blood alcohol limits permitted for driving vehicles. In fact, it is no mystery that wines with low alcohol content, as well as those without alcohol or dealcoholized are experiencing a decidedly positive moment in terms of consumption. It must also be said that, in recent years, new drinks are becoming popular with supposed claims – often exaggerated – in health benefits and with very little alcohol, despite the fact that the fermentation of sugars is part in their production process by means of yeasts.

 The recent study conducted by the Enpaia-Censis Observatory, in reality, gives a decidedly different picture and – apparently – young people are quite interested in wine. Furthermore, according to what emerges from a survey carried out by Coldiretti (an Italian association of farmers), young people under the age of 35 are particularly active in the management of agricultural companies and those involved in the production of wine. In short, according to these two studies, not only are young people interested in consuming wine, but they are also interested in its production. However, it remains a fact that, in any case, wine consumption has changed, both in preferences and ways. For completeness, young people also show interest in consuming the “new” drinks that are emerging on the market and which were practically unknown until a few years ago. Wine – inevitably – is called to direct comparison, or rather, to competition, with these new drinks promising wonders in terms of health benefits. Needless to say, a success achieved also for reasons associated to the fad of the moment.

 In this regard, the growing success of non-alcoholic drinks as well as dealcoholized wine – partially or completely – among the so-called young consumers is now a consolidated trend. Drinks such as kombucha and proxies are making their way into the preferences of young consumers, certainly also for reasons associated to fads and current trends. Furthermore, drinks characterized by a more or less marked acidity are becoming popular, often given by acetic acid – kombucha is, in fact, one of these – probably also supported by the supposed, often exaggerated, qualities in health benefits. I obviously have no intention of denying or belittling these drinks given that, as regards kombucha – which I continue to call by its Chinese name Chá Jūn and with whom I knew it more than thirty years ago – as I have been producing and consuming it for decades now. Just like wine, beer and fermented foods in general.

 However, it is clear that every fad, trend, change in consumption preferences has a direct consequence on the market to which it refers and not only in terms of competition. The passing of generations inevitably introduces changes in habits, as well as cultural ones. According to what emerges from the Enpaia-Censis report, 67.7% of young people – in the age group between 18 and 34 years – associate the consumption of wine with occasions about socialization, while 79.1% of people over 65 associate it with meals. Specifically, as already mentioned, 67.7% of young people prefer to consume wine in company, 45.3% in contexts outside the home and 34.4% during meals. In the group of consumers over 65 years of age, 36% associate consumption with social contexts – therefore in the company of others – 14.2% outside the home and, as already mentioned, 79.1% usually consumes wine with meals.

 55.3% of the intermediate consumer group associates the consumption of wine in social contexts, therefore in the company of others, 55% during meals while 34.5% usually have it outside the home. As regards the origin of the wines, 96.5% prefer to consume those of national production and 83.1% of consumers prefer DOP and IGP wines. Furthermore, from this report emerges the strong bond of Italians with nationally produced wine. In fact, 96.2% consider Italian wine a quality product, 96.1% prefer it for its taste, 93.8% for traditional reasons, 92% for identity reasons and 84.4% for sustainability. Furthermore, according to this study, for 54.8% of Italians the choice of a good wine is a source of emotion, specifically, it is for 53.7% of young people, 64.8% of adults and 37.8% of the over 65 age group. Not least, consumer culture is interesting as well: 93.8% consider awareness of moderate and responsible consumption important.

 Specifically, 88.4% of young people, 94.3% of adults and 96.9% of the population over 65 years old. As regards information campaigns with the aim of discouraging the consumption of wine, associating it with any negative effects on health – including the relative warning statements on labels – 75.3% of consumers say they are against it. Specifically, 66.5% of young people, 79.4% of adults and 73.8% of consumers over 65 are contrary to this type of information. The report also collected the opinion of Italian consumers on the effect of climate change in relation to wine. 82.6% believe that the change will affect the availability and production of wine, while being confident in the ability of producers to face the future climate condition, also in terms of sustainability. In fact, 84.4% of Italian consumers believe that national wine is associated with sustainability. This is supported by 79.4% of young people, 85.3% of adults and 86.5% of consumers over 65.

 Apparently, young people's interest in wine is not limited exclusively to the glass. According to a survey carried out by Coldiretti, running a vineyard, and therefore wine production, is among the activities most sought after by young entrepreneurs under the age of 35. According to the Coldiretti study – in fact – in Italy there are over 5500 wine businesses managed by young people under 35 years of age. Furthermore, the new generation of winemakers seems to be particularly attentive and interested in environmental sustainability, conveying and promoting their work above all through the so-called social network channels. According to the survey, young wine producers are particularly attentive to innovation and over 70% of these associate multifunctional activities with wine production such as wine tourism and wine therapy. The phenomenon in mainly common in Apulia, a region in which over a sixth of the total companies run by young people are found, followed by Veneto and Sicily. Finally, according to the Coldiretti survey, the surface area of the vineyards of companies run by young people is 54% higher than the average, as well as producing higher profits than 75% of wineries, employing 50% more staff than the average. These data paint a more prosperous future for wine than it was some time ago, with new generations still showing interest in this industry as well as an awareness of moderate consumption and climate-sustainable practices.