Whenever important grapes are being mentioned, most of the times are the French ones - the so called international grapes - to be mainly remembered, indeed even in Italy - among the many and good grapes of this country - there is one grape that since more than a century belongs to this narrow and prestigious category. Nebbiolo - whose wines are frequently defined as “wines of the kings” as well as “king of wines” - is almost and exclusively associated to its homeland - Piedmont and in particular Langhe - however it is also found in other regions of northern Italy and, marginally, in other countries of the world. The main representatives of this grape certainly are Barolo and Barbaresco - two wines which owe their fame and quality both to their areas of origin and to Nebbiolo - as well as wines from Valtellina in Lombardy and the ones from the northern part of Piedmont and Vallée d'Aoste.

 The Nebbiolo grape originated from Piedmont and despite it is not the most cultivated grape in terms of quantity, it certainly is the most precious and celebrated one of this region. There are written documents about Nebbiolo dated back to 1200's and it is however certain this grape was known in ancient times; moreover it was probably mentioned by Pliny the Elder as well. The origin of its name certainly comes from the word nebbia (Italian for fog), a meteorological condition frequent in Piedmont during autumn when harvesting takes place. Nebbiolo is therefore a grape reaching full ripeness - and therefore it is ready for harvesting - when in autumn, frequently after the half of October, vineyards are covered by fog. Indeed Nebbiolo is a variety which ripens later in regard to other varieties, another factor which certainly confirms the origin of its name.

	A bunch of Nebbiolo grape

 Nebbiolo is a pretty “bizarre” and exacting grape in terms of environmental and climate conditions, a characteristic which probably limited its spreading beyond the borders of Piedmont and however of Italy. Even in Piedmont its cultivation is pretty limited as well as limited are the areas in which this grape is capable of giving its best for the production of great wines. Because of its relatively late ripening, Nebbiolo is generally cultivated in hills facing towards south or south-west in which the type of soil plays a role of primary importance. Nebbiolo prefers soils rich in limestone and marl sediments - such as the ones in some areas near Barolo, Barbaresco and Alba - capable of developing in wines complex aromas and an excellent balance between acidity and tannins. In case it is being cultivated in sandy soils - such as the ones in the Roero area - the wines get a more delicate, smooth and less harsh character.

 Despite Nebbiolo is a pretty ancient grape cultivated in Piedmont since many centuries, its success is strictly connected to Barolo and, more precisely, to the recent history of Barolo. Until the half of 1800's wines produced with Nebbiolo grape - because of low temperatures typical of the harvesting time which interrupted fermentation - had a pretty sweet taste, very distant from the renowned wines of those times, such as the ones produced in Bordeaux and Bourgogne. Around the half of 1800's Marquise Giulietta Falletti of Barolo asked the famous French wine maker Louis Oudart, called in the Langhe area by Count Camillo Benso of Cavour, to improve the wines of her cellar. After a brief investigation, the famous wine maker individuated the cause in the approximate production techniques: the fermentation process could not come to an end and therefore the wine remained unstable, with a sweetish flavors and to be drunk as soon as possible. His results convinced Cavour to ask Oudart for his intervention in the cellar at his castle at Grinzane and even King Vittorio Emanuele II converted his hunting lodge in Fontanafredda, at Serralunga d'Alba, to the production of this new wine. Barolo was born, the wine which made famous both Piedmont and Nebbiolo, an event which gave a strong impulse to the modern Italian enology.

 Since then, the production of Barolo - and of wines made of Nebbiolo - has evolved and changed according to modern technologies as opposed to the ones of the past. This led to the formation of two schools of thought - in particular in Piedmont - generally defined as traditionalists and modernists. Traditionalists support the idea Nebbiolo, and in particular Barolo, should be made according to traditional principles by allowing long fermentation and aging times for three or four years in large casks of Slovenian oak or chestnut wood. Modernists support the idea Nebbiolo must be aged in French oak barriques in order to make it smoother and less harsh, and in the aim of making it a more immediate wine, fresh as well as keeping its fruity character. These two new visions of making Nebbiolo have also been the origin of many followers for one or the other school of thought, sometimes cause of strong debates and arguments not only among producers but also among consumers. The vision of “traditionalists” and of “modernists” are also visible in the wine appearance, where in the first case it shows paler colors and higher transparencies, and in the second case the intensity of color is higher and the transparency is lesser.

 Despite the spreading of Nebbiolo is pretty limited, in every area in which it is being cultivated it is called with a characteristic name: in the northern area of Piedmont - in particular at Carema - and in the Vallée d'Aoste, Nebbiolo is called Picutener, whereas in the areas of Gattinara and Ghemme it is called Spanna. In Valtellina - Lombardy - the Nebbiolo grape used for the renowned red wines of the area is called Chiavennasca. Nebbiolo is known to have three clonal varieties: Lampia, Michet and Rosé. The most famous one of the three is Lampia, whereas Michet is the Lampia variety affected by a virus which causes the bifurcation of branches. The Michet variety tends to a lower yield and its grapes have more intense and aromatic qualities, however it has a lesser capacity of adaptation in different soil types. The Rosé is rapidly declining because of its lesser coloring capacity with the result of producing pretty pale wines. Quality wines produced with Nebbiolo have a high acidity and alcohol, as well as a high quantity of tannins: all these factors ensure long aging times, frequently more than twenty years.

 Nebbiolo grape does not have huge quantities of colorants, therefore in its wines it will be hardly possible to see extremely intense colors and low transparencies. Nebbiolo can be considered as a grape having an average coloring capacity, moreover the color of its wines strongly depends on the way they were produced. In wines produced according to the traditional method, that is with long maceration times and long aging times in Slovenian oak casks or chestnut wood, the color is pretty pale and the aspect is transparent, with garnet red hues and sometimes brick orange. In Nebbiolo wines produced with modern systems, the extraction of color is greatly encouraged and the transparency is lower. Wines produced with Nebbiolo grapes tend to change their color pretty rapidly and after few years it is possible to see evident nuances of brick orange, a color generally typical in wines which reached the apex of aging. This characteristic is to be considered normal for Nebbiolo, therefore - in this specific case - a wine showing a brick orange color must not be considered as “old”. It is useful to remember Nebbiolo generally has a remarkable capacity of aging which can also be more than twenty years.

 The aromas of wines made with Nebbiolo grape are pretty characteristic, however it is good to remember - as opposed to other varieties - these aromas can be easily covered by the use of new casks, in particular new barriques with strong toasting. The use of barrique with Nebbiolo is one of the subject from which originated many debates between modernists and traditionalists and according to the latter, the nature of Nebbiolo is strongly altered. Wines produced with this grape can be recognized in their youth because of the strong aromas of cherry, plum and - in particular - of violet, whereas with aging in bottle - and it is good to remember Nebbiolo can require even ten years to reach maturity - are being developed very complex aromas such as tar, truffle, mushrooms, leather and smoke. In the so called traditional Nebbiolo aged in large casks, the impact of aromas derived from wood is pretty low while favoring the typical qualities of these wines, whereas in modern Nebbiolo aged in barrique or small barrels, the aromas of vanilla and toasted - typically passed by wood - can sometimes cover the nature of Nebbiolo. As always it is a matter of balance and of personal taste: the use of wood is simply one of the many factors - and Nebbiolo is no exception - which contributes to the harmony and balance of a wine. It is however indisputable there are great traditional Nebbiolos as well as great modern Nebbiolos.

 In wines produced with grapes cultivated in cool areas or not having reached full ripeness, the aromas which mainly develop resemble flowers - in which it is found the typical violet - as well as aromas of fruit such as cherry, strawberry, raspberry; sometimes it can also be perceived the aroma of white pepper. In wines produced with Nebbiolo cultivated in warmer areas or with fully ripe grapes, it is found the typical aroma of violet, to which is added a pleasing aroma of rose, and aromas of fruit resembling black cherry or ripe cherry, plum and sometimes blackberry, as well as mineral aromas. Nebbiolo becomes particularly amazing after a proper time of aging in bottle. With aging the fruit aromas of Nebbiolo are transformed into rich jams, emerges the aroma of dried rose and violet. Time gives Nebbiolo other extremely complex and elegant aromas such as tar, leather, truffle, mushrooms and smoke, in which it is always possible to perceive its typical aromas of flowers and fruits.

 Nebbiolo shows its strong personality even in the taste. The wines produced with this grape are characterized by a strong acidity, are pretty alcoholic and rich in harsh tannins, however elegant and refined. These three qualities - combined together - ensure Nebbiolo wines very long aging times in bottle, most of the times more than twenty years. Nebbiolo makes wines of remarkable structure - in particular for the quantity of tannins - even though its appearance could make anyone think of the opposite. The aspect of Nebbiolo can look like a light wine, indeed after the first sip has been tasted, it is ready to reveal his power, most of the times surprising. The first impact is constituted by a pretty high acidity which only an adequate quantity of alcohol can keep in balance. Even astringency will be pretty evident, however in mature Nebbiolo this sensation will be milder and smoother, while keeping its nature and surprising elegance. Even in this case the high quantity of alcohol in these wines will be indispensable in order to obtain a perfect balance.

 Nebbiolo is mainly associated to Piedmont - its homeland - and despite it is not the most cultivated variety in terms of quantity, it certainly is the most important and renowned grape. The most emblematic wines produced with Nebbiolo have always been Barolo and Barbaresco, two wines which are strongly connected to the grape and to Piedmont. Barbaresco is usually considered as a more gentle and feminine version of Barolo, a wine which has always had the reputation of a more austere and masculine nature. Indeed this difference is not always confirmed by reality because the nature of the two wines is strongly influenced both by the environmental conditions of vineyards as well as by the production style. Whatever the difference, Barolo and Barbaresco are two magnificent wines, worth representatives of this grape. Nebbiolo is very common in the Langhe area, in the territory of Alba and in the Roero area and it is virtually found in every red wine of these areas. Wines produced in these areas - usually having a cost lesser than Barolo and Barbaresco - represent a very good reference point for understanding Nebbiolo and among the many are mentioned Nebbiolo d'Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo and Roero.

 Nebbiolo is also cultivated in the northern part of Piedmont and it is the main grape in Carema, Gattinara and Ghemme wines. Wines from Carema are produced with Nebbiolo only - here known as Spanna or Picutener - whereas in wines of Gattinara and Ghemme, Nebbiolo is usually blended with other local grapes. Other wines from Piedmont in which is found Nebbiolo include: Boca, Sizzano, Bramaterra, Canavese, Fara and Lessona. Outside the borders of Piedmont, Nebbiolo is found in Vallée d'Aoste - here known as Picoutener or Picotendro - in particular for the production of Donnas wines. Another important area for Nebbiolo is Valtellina - in the northern part of Lombardy - where the grape is known as Chiavennasca. In Lombardy Nebbiolo is also used in the Franciacorta area where it is being used - together with other grapes - for the production of red wines. Despite its magnificence, Nebbiolo did not spread outside Italy which in past times was introduced by emigrants in the American continent and in Australia. Nebbiolo is cultivated - although in limited quantities - in California and near San Juan in Argentina, and more marginally, at Victoria in Australia.