Studying the organoleptic qualities of wines and of grapes by using a comparative tastings is extremely useful for the development of any taster's skills. An useful exercise for the wine lover who is getting into the amazing world of sensorial analysis, is the study of aromatic grapes. The capacity of recognizing the typical qualities defining the so called aromatic grapes, allows the taster to learn the differences from non aromatic grapes, therefore making simpler their recognition in wines. The tasting we are proposing our readers this month has the goal of studying two aromatic grapes - Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc - by comparing them with a non aromatic grape - Chardonnay - in order to understand the differences and qualities defining an aromatic grape. Of all the three grapes, the only one which can be really considered aromatic is Gewürztraminer, whereas Sauvignon Blanc - despite the fact it has a strong aromatic quality - is considered as semi aromatic, and Chardonnay belongs to the family of non aromatic grapes.

 The choice of these three grapes was made according to the different families to which they belong to, in order to clearly understand their olfactory qualities by comparing the aromatic intensities of the three grapes. Before beginning our tasting, it is good to remember the meaning of aromatic grape. Despite all grapes have their own aromas, are being considered as aromatic only those grapes whose wines are characterized by a strong and evident aroma of grape. For this reason Muscat Blanc is considered an aromatic grape - the grapey aroma in its wine is very strong - whereas Trebbiano Toscano is not. In wines made with Trebbiano Toscano will be found other aromas, but the one of grape will not certainly be present, and other aromas defined as primary will be absent as well. The first goal of this tasting is to understand this aroma and to recognize its presence, or absence, in all the three wines.

 The three wines we will be using in this comparative tasting are being produced with the three grapes only, that is are mono varietal wines. In order to better understand the qualities of the grapes, the wines we have chosen have been fermented and aged in inert containers, in this case steel tanks. The choice of three wines fermented or aged in cask - or barrique - would have not been appropriate for the goal of our tasting as the aromas passed from wood to the wine would have covered in a more or less evident way the natural qualities of grapes. Moreover, it is appropriate to remember the area of origin of the three wines will play a role in the organoleptic perception, and the same is true for the enological practices used in the production. In case it is not possible to use the three wines we are suggesting, you can alternatively choose wines produced with the same grapes, possibly from the same areas and - in particular - vinified in inert containers, such as steel or cement.

	The wines of our comparative tasting

 The first wine, the one we will use as the main reference point for understanding the primary aroma of grape, is Cantina Produttori Bolzano's Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Kleinstein. An excellent Gewürztraminer wine that, besides having the typical aroma of grape, has also an excellent number of aromas typical of this variety. The second wine is Scubla's Colli Orientali del Friuli Sauvignon, a wine that, besides having the primary aroma of this grape, will also allow the study of the typical vegetal characteristic of this variety. The third wine we have chosen for the tasting is Casale del Giglio's Chardonnay, interesting for its organoleptic qualities of tropical fruit and that will be compared with the ones of the other wines. In this third wine, the primary aroma of the grape will not be found and therefore, thanks to comparison, it will allow us to better recognize this aroma in the other two wines. As for vintages, it will be chosen - for all the three wines - the most recent one. The tasting will be done by pouring the wine in three ISO tasting glasses and served at a temperature of 10° C (50° F).

 Poured in the glasses, the three wines will look very different one from another. The aspect of all the three wines is crystalline and very transparent - just like we would expect from any white wine - whereas the color offers many possibilities for comparison and study. The three samples show very different colors and nuances. Of the three wines, the one showing a paler color will be Sauvignon Blanc and it is right this wine the first one we are going to analyze. The color of this wine is intense greenish yellow and - by tilting the glass over a white surface - we will notice, on the edge of the liquid mass towards the opening, nuances of greenish yellow. The first element we get from observing this aspect is that Sauvignon Blanc wines fermented and aged in inert containers - steel or cement tanks - do not have intense colors: a quality which is absolutely correspondent to the type and that we can see in this wine from Scubla.

 The next wine we are going to analyze is Casale del Giglio's Chardonnay. As opposed to Sauvignon Blanc, the hue of this wine shows a straw yellow color and, by tilting the glass, it will be noticed greenish yellow nuances on the edge, similar to Sauvignon Blanc's color. Even in this case the color is perfectly correspondent to the production style and to the type of containers used for vinification. Finally, let's observe the color of Produttori Bolzano's Gewürztraminer Kleinstein: the color has more intense and stronger hues and the nuances are more deep with a straw yellow color. Even in this case the color is perfectly correspondent to wines produced with Gewürztraminer and that in many cases - according to the territory and to the meteorological conditions - it can also show deep golden colors. It this examination it is better to compare the three glasses by placing them against a white surface and by observing the color variations according to the type of grape. Sauvignon Blanc gives wines with paler color, Chardonnay gives colors of average intensity, whereas Gewürztraminer produces wines with more intense colors.

 The olfactory analysis of the three wines is the most interesting examination and offers the best opportunities for our study. The first wine we are going to analyze is Gewürztraminer. We will try to understand and identify - first of all - the strong aroma of grape, typical in aromatic grapes and that in Gewürztraminer is very strong. In this phase it is best not to swirl the glass in order not to have all the other aromas develop and that would represent a “disturbing” factor. Without swirling the glass, slowly smell the wine: the aroma having the stronger intensity and that will be perceived to the nose will be the one of grape, that is the quality defining Gewürztraminer as aromatic. Then smell again the wine - even by swirling the glass - in order to memorize this aroma. After a short pause, we will analyze the Sauvignon Blanc: it will be noticed, among other aromas, that in this wine is present - even though with a weaker intensity - the aroma of grape already perceived in Gewürztraminer. After a short pause, it will be done the olfactory analysis of Chardonnay: in this wine the aroma of grape will be absent.

 The three grapes we are using in our examination also offer other opportunity for study thanks to their aromatic analogies and differences. If we consider their aromas as a whole, the three wines offer three completely different aromatic bouquets. Gewürztraminer, besides its strong grape aroma, is also rich in fruit, floral and even spicy aromas. It is not by chance - of course - that gewürz in German means spicy. Sauvignon Blanc has a completely different nature: here strong aromas of vegetal essences are melt with perceptions of fruits and flowers. Chardonnay - which we will be basically using as a “contrast” grape - offers aromas of fruits, even tropical fruits, and flowers. Let's concentrate our attention on tropical fruit aromas, present in all the three wines. Gewürztraminer has aromas of litchi, pineapple and grapefruit, Sauvignon Blanc will reveal aromas of banana and litchi, whereas Chardonnay will develop aromas of banana and litchi. Compare the three wines while trying to identify the aromas of tropical fruits and the different intensities and nuances in every sample.

 Sauvignon Blanc offers good elements of study which are completely absent in the other two wines. Among the many and pleasing aromas, in the Sauvignon Blanc it is possible to perceive a strong aroma of bell pepper and tomato leaf, aromatic qualities which are absent in the other two wines. These aromas represent - as a matter of fact - identifying qualities for many Sauvignon Blanc wines, in particular the ones produced in cool climate areas or with not completely ripe grapes. Even the aromatic series of flowers is interesting: in Gewürztraminer will be perceived a pleasing aroma of rose - typical in this grape - as well as hints of elder flowers. Even in Sauvignon Blanc will be found the aroma of elder flower, here being more intense, that will be absent in Chardonnay, where they will be found aromas of acacia and hawthorn. Finally, it is interesting to pay attention on peach, apple and pear aromas, common in all the three wines. It is good to remember the peach aroma is frequently present in all aromatic and semi aromatic grapes. Whether Sauvignon Blanc can be recognized for its vegetal quality, Gewürztraminer can be identified - besides the primary aroma of grape - for its pleasing aromas recalling spices and aromatic herbs, such as star anise and sage.

 The goal of this examination is to compare the gustatory sensations of the three wines and - in particular - the differences among structures. The first wine we are going to analyze is Chardonnay: despite it has a higher structure than Sauvignon Blanc, in this specific case it is appropriate to consider the intensity and the variety of aromas as well as the alcoholic volume. Taste a sip of Chardonnay: the first sensation perceived in the mouth is its pleasing crispness, a quality which is also determined by its young age. Let's now pay attention on the wine's structure: a good method is to have the tongue sliding on the palate and to evaluate friction; the lesser the friction - therefore the easier the tongue will slide - the greater the presence of solid substances and therefore the greater the structure. Consider, as an example, the sensations caused by water and milk: with water the friction is pretty high, whereas with milk is low. The structure of this wine is to be considered average with a good roundness and flavors are pretty intense; it will be noticed a good correspondence to the aromas already perceived to the nose, in particular banana, peach and pear.

 Let's taste now Sauvignon Blanc: the friction of the tongue is higher, a condition caused by a lesser structure, a typical quality in this grape. On the contrary, it will be noticed a higher crispness and a higher intensity of flavors: even in this case, these are typical organoleptic qualities of Sauvignon Blanc. There will be perceived strong flavors of peach, pear and litchi. Then it will be tasted Gewürztraminer: in this case the structure is higher and it will also be noticed a higher burning sensation of alcohol while noticing a good acidity as well. Even in this case these are typical qualities of Gewürztraminer, a grape rich in sugar and therefore capable of producing higher quantities of alcohol as well as higher structures. During the tasting of Gewürztraminer it could be perceived a certain sweetness: this is a false perception which is determined by its high roundness - or smoothness - that will make the wine taste sweet or basically sweet; indeed the wine is absolutely dry. There will be noticed very intense flavors corresponding to the nose, in particular flavors of grape, peach, litchi and pear.

 The taste-olfactory persistence in the wines will be different in all the three cases and with different intensities. Chardonnay will be the wine having the shortest persistence, whereas Gewürztraminer will have the longest persistence. It is good to remember aromatic grapes, when vinified with quality criteria, generally have very long taste-olfactory persistence. The flavors of Chardonnay in the mouth will be of banana, peach and pear, whereas Sauvignon Blanc will have flavors of peach, pear and litchi as well as hints of grape. In Gewürztraminer the flavor of grape will be pretty strong and long which will be fused with the ones of peach, pear and litchi: an interesting analogy with Sauvignon Blanc. Whereas it is possible to find some organoleptic analogies between Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay - the wine used as a contrast element - will have pretty different organoleptic qualities, in which the typical characteristics of aromatic grapes will be absent. The only exception is represented by the aroma of peach which, it should be remembered, is not always found in Chardonnay wines vinified in inert containers.