This month we suggest our readers a new comparative tasting dedicated to the red wines of Alto Adige. This northern Italian region is mainly known for its white wines - crisp, aromatic and elegant - however in vineyards are also found many interesting red berried varieties with which are produced excellent wines. In the scene of red berried grapes found in Alto Adige, where in vineyards are frequently found international varieties - in particular Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot - a grape is particularly known for its quality and which can be considered as the real glory of the region: Lagrein. A grape capable of giving great wines, Lagrein is used in Alto Adige for the production of two different styles, both being very interesting. The first one - and probably the most famous of the two - is “Lagrein Dunkel”, that is “dark”, it is a red wine produced according to the typical technique for red wines, and “Lagrein Kretzer”, that is “rose”, produced with a short maceration of the skins in the must.

 Lagrein is known in Alto Adige since the 1300s and are known two distinct varieties - Lagrein with a short cluster and Lagrein with a long cluster - both used for the production of Dunkel and Kretzer styles. The name Lagrein probably comes from Lagara, a colony of Magna Graecia, in the territory where today is found Basilicata region, famous for the Lagaritanos wine. Genetic researches done on this grape suggest Lagrein has some connections with Teroldego, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso and Syrah grapes. Thanks to its characteristics, Lagrein can be vinified as rose, producing interesting wines with a pleasing crispness and a pleasing olfactory profile. Most of the Lagrein is however vinified as red - and in this case in the label can also be found the term “dunkel” - obtaining wines of remarkable structure and pleasing crispness. Thanks to its good content in coloring substances, Lagrein Dunkel is also characterized by intense and deep colors, sometimes impenetrable to light.

 Lagrein is a grape which prefers areas characterized by remarkable changes in temperature between day and night, specifically, pretty hot days followed by pretty cool nights, as well as a soil made of limestone and clay. This condition is generally found in the valley of Bolzano (Bozen) and it is right in this area are being produced the best expressions of wines made from Lagrein. According to the production disciplinary for Denominazione d'Origine Controllata wines of Alto Adige, Lagrein can be used together with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, therefore obtaining Cabernet-Lagrein, and Merlot, obtaining Merlot-Lagrein. The disciplinary also provides for the use of the grape alone, therefore obtaining Lagrein, Lagrein Dunkel or Lagrein Scuro - in case the grape is vinified as red - and Lagrein Kretzer or Lagrein Rosato (Rose), in case the grape is vinified as rose. It should be noticed Lagrein can also be used for the production of other DOC wines of Alto Adige, usually blended to typical varieties of the territory.

	The three Alto Adige Lagrein wines of our comparative tasting

 Our comparative tasting will exclusively focus on three wines produced with 100% Lagrein and vinified as red, therefore to Lagrein Dunkel style. The three wines are all being aged in barrique, although for different periods of time, a wine making characteristic typical in the production of Lagrein wines. The first wine of our comparative tasting is Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Lagrein Porphyr, aged for 18 months in barrique. The second wine is Produttori Colterenzio's Alto Adige Lagrein Cornell, aged for 16 months in barrique. The third wine of our comparative tasting is Cantina Produttori Bolzano's Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Taber, aged in barrique for 12 months. The wines will be chosen according to the latest vintages commercialized by the respective producers and will be server at the temperature of 18°C (65°F). The tasting, as usual, will be done by pouring the wines in three ISO tasting glasses.

 Thanks to its content in polyphenols and coloring substances, wines produced with Lagrein and vinified as red, do not pass unnoticed to the eyes of the taster. In Lagrein Dunkel can in fact be observed intense and deep ruby red hues, with a pretty low transparency which can also avoid the passage of light. Also nuances confirm this characteristic of Lagrein, and in certain exemplars with some years of aging can be noticed a purple color which melts with a ruby red. It should however be noticed in some Lagrein Dunkel, generally the ones sold soon after the aging period passed in the cellar of producers, can be observed an intense ruby red color which tends to melt with purple. With time, Lagrein Dunkel wines follow the typical evolution of red wines, changing from ruby red to garnet red - although keeping a ruby red nuance - up to get, at the top of aging, a brick red hue.

 Let's start the appearance analysis of our comparative tasting from Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Lagrein Porphyr. By holding the glass tilted over a white surface - a white sheet of paper or a white table cloth will be enough - let's evaluate the color of the wine by observing the liquid mass at the base of the glass. The color of this wine will show an evident deep ruby red and a pretty low transparency, whereas nuances - observing the wine at the edge, towards the opening of the glass - will show a purple red hue. Also the color of the second wine, Produttori Colterenzio's Alto Adige Lagrein Cornell, shows an evident deep ruby red color and a pretty low transparency, whereas nuances, as opposed to the previous wine, will show hints of garnet red. The color of the third wine, Cantina Produttori Bolzano's Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Taber, confirms the characteristics of this grape's colors, showing a deep ruby red and a low transparency, with nuances of the same color.

 Lagrein is a grape capable of giving great wines, with charming and exuberant aromas, complex and rich: the taster who will put the nose in a glass of Lagrein will not be disappointed. Among the most typical aromas of Lagrein Dunkel can be perceived the ones of red and black berried fruits as well as aromas recalling flowers. Lagrein Dunkel is generally fermented and aged in cask - frequently, the barrique - therefore in this wine can also be appreciated the typical aromas given by wood to the wine. The opening of Lagrein is generally characterized by aromas of black cherry, blackberry and blueberry, very intense and clean. Among flower aromas typical in Lagrein are mentioned violet and cyclamen. The aging in wood gives Lagrein tertiary aromas which recall spices and can also be found balsamic sensations, such as menthol and eucalyptus.

 The first wine of which we will examine the olfactory profile is Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Lagrein Porphyr. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, we will proceed with a first smell in order to appreciate the so called opening aromas, that is the aromas which develop from the wine with modest quantities of oxygen. From the glass are perceived intense and clean aromas of plum, black cherry and blackberry, three typical aromas which are frequently found in the opening of wines produced with this prestigious grape from Alto Adige. We will now proceed with the swirling of the glass, therefore favoring the oxygenation and the development of other aromas, completing the olfactory profile of the first wine. The second smell will allow the perception of the aromas of blueberry and violet, to which are added pomegranate, vanilla, tobacco, licorice, cocoa and pleasing balsamic sensations of menthol. It should also be noticed the pleasing hints of rhubarb and black pepper.

 Let's now pass to the evaluation of the second wine: Produttori Colterenzio's Alto Adige Lagrein Cornell. The opening of this Lagrein, evaluated without swirling the glass, is characterized by plum, black cherry and blueberry, also in this case, intense and clean. After having swirled the glass, let's proceed with the second smell which will complete the aromatic profile of the wine with blackberry, dried violet, vanilla, cocoa, licorice, black currant and the pleasing balsamic touch of menthol followed by a pleasing hint of white pepper. The opening of the third wine of our comparative tasting - Cantina Produttori Bolzano's Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Taber - is characterized by intense and clean aromas of black cherry, plum and blueberry, also in this case typical in Lagrein. After having swirled the glass, let's proceed with the second smell in order to complete the olfactory profile of the wine with blackberry, violet, raspberry, cyclamen and “complex” sensations of vanilla, tobacco, cocoa, licorice and a strong balsamic character of eucalyptus.

 Depending on how it is used by the producer, Lagrein grape makes wines with pretty different characteristics, from medium bodied red wines to wines of remarkable and robust structure. The discriminating factor - together with the wine making practices - is represented by the quality of grapes and the way with which were cultivated in vineyard. Making Lagrein wines with a robust structure, first of all, means adopting viticultural practices in order to limit the yield, as Lagrein is a variety which tends to overproduction. In the best examples, Lagrein is characterized by pretty full structures, with a good presence of tannins giving the mouth a strong sensation of astringency. The frequent choice of fermenting and aging Lagrein in cask - most of the times in barrique - gives the wine a pleasing roundness contributing to the balance of tannins, to which contributes alcohol as well, that in this wine can also be higher than 13%.

 Let's start the gustatory evaluation of our comparative tasting from Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Lagrein Porphyr. The attack of this wine - evaluated by taking a little sip from the glass - will reveal the nature of quality Lagrein, by emphasizing the astringent strength of tannins which find an excellent balance in the roundness provided by wood and alcohol. It should also be noticed the pleasing acid character of the wine. Let's now proceed with the second wine - Produttori Colterenzio's Alto Adige Lagrein Cornell - in which can be perceived the attack of tannins balanced by the roundness given by the aging in wood and alcohol. Also in this case it should be noticed the pleasing crispness of the wine and its robust structure. The attack of the third wine - Cantina Produttori Bolzano's Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Taber - confirms the quality of the grape with a well perceptible astringency, although smoothed by the aging in wood, well balanced by alcohol. Also in this wine can be noticed a pleasing crispness and an evident full body.

 Quality wines produced with Lagrein do not disappoint in the final phases of the tasting as well: in the mouth can be noticed their good persistence and their good body. The finish of Cantina Terlano's Alto Adige Lagrein Porphyr is persistent with intense and clean flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry, a pretty frequent finish in wines produced with this grape. Also the finish of the second wine - Produttori Colterenzio's Alto Adige Lagrein Cornell - is persistent, leaving in the mouth intense and clean flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry. The finish of the third wine of our comparative tasting - Cantina Produttori Bolzano's Alto Adige Lagrein Riserva Taber - is characterized by a long persistence in which can be perceived intense and clean flavors of black cherry, blackberry and plum, also in this case a typical finish. It should also be noticed, in all the three wines, the pleasing sensation of roundness having the effect of balancing crispness as well as a sensation of full and robust body.