In the beginning it was a wine produced in the countryside of Treviso, humble
and simple to many, refermented in the bottle - a practice which produced a huge
quantity of lees - and it was decanted before being served. Then it
came the refermentation in closed tank - a method known as Charmat,
invented by the Italian Federico Martinotti and later improved and patented by
the French Eugène Charmat - changing the destiny of the wine from
Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. The new method allowed the production of a wine with
bubbles in shorter times and with no lees, at a lesser cost, therefore ensuring
the huge commercial success of Prosecco and many other wines produced with the
same method. Many Prosecco producers adopted the new method, whereas others
remained faithful to tradition and two products started to become common
which differed one from the other by the type of cork used to seal the bottle.
Wines produced with the Charmat method were characterized by the mushroom
shaped cork, the one typically used for sparkling wines, whereas traditional
Prosecco refermented in bottle was characterized by the so called tappo
raso, that is a regular cork completely plunged into the bottle's neck and held
in place with a string in order to avoid the cork to be expelled by internal
pressure. Then, also Prosecco tappo raso lost this characteristic and
suddenly became limpid and with no sediment, therefore completely leaving the
scene to the only Prosecco style now renowned all over the world, the one
produced with the Charmat method and with the mushroom shaped cork. A planetary
success, a symbol identifying not only Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, but also
Italian enology. Prosecco has therefore become an identifying mark for a wine
style - there are many today who call Prosecco or, even worse,
Prosecchino, every wine having bubbles - as to bring to an exponential
increase of production in order to quench the thirst the world had for
Valdobbiadene's bubbles.
At this point, it is necessary to clear one point. The name could in effect
cause a sort of confusion, it could make someone think about a slightly dry
wine, without being so, a confusion caused by the name of the main grape with
which this wine is produced. Prosecco is the name of the grape, a name which was
fundamental for its success - maybe the success was also caused by this
confusion - and today producers, and this is set by a law, call this grape with
its ancient name, that is Glera. The consequences of this change, to
tell the truth, are sometimes funny. Producers who have called for decades this
grape Prosecco - and thanks to this name they obtained a planetary success -
will promptly correct their interlocutor in case he or she mistakenly calls the
grape with its most famous name: with a serious and solemn look will make the
interlocutor notice the name is Glera, as if Prosecco grape never
existed. Prosecco, a name probably originated from the homonymous town in the
province of Trieste, a town where this grape is believed to be originated from,
today seems to be a quite intrusive name. Prosecco does not exist anymore,
welcome Glera.
The need of changing the image of Prosecco is evident. It was - and continues to
be - a striking success worldwide, however bringing countless examples of
speculations and forgery. An almost unavoidable consequence: it is easier to
take advantage of the success of others instead of getting it with one's own
merit, in particular when there are no merits. This introduced deplorable
attempts of speculations in the world, and - for the sake of truth - this also
happened in Prosecco production area. An example is represented by the
production of Prosecco of disputable quality, something which certainly did not
honored the good name and the quality of this wine and of the producers who
proved it with what they put in a bottle. It can also be for this reason the
wine is frequently called with the detestable term Prosecchino, as if it
was a lesser wine, something having no value, an ordinary bubble. This is also
the result for not having worked on the image and the safeguarding of a product,
by probably thinking to the excitement of success and profit only.
What now? The success was so important for Prosecco and the whole area of
Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, as to become cumbersome and not very distinctive.
They decided to start things over. Or better: to start from history and origins.
Prosecco leaves the scene and welcomes Glera: the very same grape, however
enough to give the sensation of something new or, maybe, to cause a new
confusion. Meanwhile, in order to better safeguard the quality and image of a
territory, they also received the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e
Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG), reserved to
the Prosecco Superiore only, which, for the occasion, is now simply
called Conegliano-Valdobbiadene DOCG, also providing for the territorial
expressions of Superiore di Cartizze and Rive. It seems Prosecco
term has become inconvenient, as to give it a secondary and accessory role in
the name of the wine, while leaving it to the Denominazione d'Origine
Controllata wines (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC). The same thing
happened in the neighboring Asolo, also in this case promoted to the DOCG rank,
therefore abandoning the old name Colli Asolani Prosecco in favor of Asolo
DOCG.
Moreover, there are some producers who still believe in the old tradition of
Prosecco - pardon, Glera - the one refermented in bottle and allowed to
age on its lees. This technique produces the typical sediment that, as opposed
to the classic method, is left inside the bottle. This sediment is an integral
part of the wine itself and it is strongly suggested to pour it in the glasses
in order to make the wine richer and with a stronger personality, although this
will make the wine a little hazy. Rich in aromas and in flavors, no doubt about
this, and even though it looks hazy, who cares. For many aspects, this wine is
richer and more interesting than the Prosecco produced with the refermentation
in closed tank. To tell the truth, in case I have to tell the style of Prosecco
I like the most, or maybe, I have always liked the most, it is right this style
refermented in bottle and served with the sediment of yeast, Sur Lie, how
they sometimes call it. This is the style of Prosecco being more distant from
the speculation which however gave it notoriety - as well as countless examples
of anonymous and mediocre wines - and also because it is the style showing a
more interesting personality. In other words, it is a wine staying away from
homologation, something - frankly speaking - being not interesting at all, just
like many fashions. And fashion in wine is no exception.
Antonello Biancalana
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