We knew 2017 would have not been a good vintage or, to say the least, one of
those to be remembered. The positive side is that - at least this year - they
refrained from spreading the enthusiastic and joyous news about the vintage
of the century. Indeed, some tried to do that, maybe they were simply used to
do so as, in past recent years, every vintage has been declared as vintage of
the century, despite there are still eighty-three years before the end of
this century. The negative side, more seriously, the quantity harvested in
vineyards is one of the lowest of the past recent years and what they harvested
is not exactly what we could call quality grapes. It certainly is not
comparable to the quality of recent vintages. We knew vintage 2017 would have
been one of the most difficult ones of the past years, a vintage we would
probably not remember because of the hard meteorological conditions. The only
thing we can do is to save what can be saved and, in terms of quality, wines
will tell us.
After all, also in vintages considered bad, such as the well known 2002,
with time - in particular red wines - have given very good surprises. The
bizarre meteorological conditions of 2017, impossible to forget, have greeted
the new and young vine sprouts with a severe frozen also causing damages in
other cultures. In case some thought this was enough, drought made things even
harder for vineyards and, without water, vine hopes for bearing quality fruits
is severely compromised to say the least. To such condition, where allowed and
possible, vintners have irrigated vineyards in order to give them a sort of
relief and tried to quench the thirst of vines. It should be said the diminished
availability of water is generally considered a quality factor as this
forces vines to dig their roots in the deep of the soil in order to
find underground water reserves, therefore becoming more resistant to the
effects of drought.
This is what has actually happened in 2017, therefore only the vines of a
certain age and with well developed roots could benefit from underground
water reserves. Young vines, or relatively young, with short roots, certainly
have suffered from the lack of water. This is a well known fact: inside grape
berries is found juice, mostly made of water. In case water is not available, of
course, the development of berries is strongly compromised, they will therefore
be smaller than the average and the quantity of must will be lower as well.
This is what happened in many areas of Italy in vineyards which survived the
effects of frosts. 2017 has also been characterized by very high temperatures
which, including the effects of the lack of rains, have made even harder and
complicated life of vines. Grapes have ripened in advance, therefore forcing a
significant early harvesting. In other words, a vintage - 2017 - evidently
complicated, complex and difficult. For the sake of completeness, we should
also mention the unwelcome hail that, in certain areas of Italy, have caused
serious damages.
The expectations of the past weeks have been unfortunately confirmed by the
meteorological events and, now that many are done harvesting vineyards or are
about to do it, we can talk about quite reliable results. Everyone agrees on
the fact quantity produced in 2017 is evidently lower than the past, among the
lowest in the last fifty years. In general terms, production in Italy is
expected to be 26% lesser, in certain cases even 32% lesser, than 2016 such
as in Central Italy. It makes me smile - let me say that - in this context,
many have triumphantly said Italy will however be making more wine than Frances,
relaunching the endless and quite useless competition with the French. Italy is
still the country making the highest quantity of wine in the world: the honor
is fortunately saved. They are talking about quantity. What about quality? Some
have promptly said that, despite quantity is lower, quality is however good and
we will have surprises as well as good wines.
In opposition to what some said, we should also mention what has been said by
Riccardo Cotarella, chairman of Assoenologi, the Italian Association of
Wine Makers. The famous Umbrian wine maker has in fact said 2017 will not be
evidently remembered for the quality of its wines and the unusual
conditions occurred in this year will be quite troublesome in wine making as
well. For many aspects, summer 2017 seemed to be similar to 2003, another very
hot vintage. Wines of that vintage - in particular reds - were characterized by
a pretty high alcohol by volume with a harsh astringency, certainly not very
elegant. That's why it will be fundamental to do a good job in making wine in
order to avoid this condition, for any possible extent. As for the quantity of
sugar - and therefore of alcohol - in theory there is not much to do, whereas
for the agreeableness of tannins it is possible to do something. It is too
evident miracles are not possible in wine making (more or less) in case the
quality of grapes is low. In other words, only the best vintners and the most
competent wine makers will be safe.
Shall we have disappointing or low quality wines? This is hard to tell. There
will be - as usual - areas, varieties, wines and in particular producers who
will be more interesting than others. 2017 certainly is a hard, complex and
demanding test for everyone and in which - like to say - only the best will
be successful. In this case, best means the ones who will have quality
grapes - because of his or her talent or the benevolence of Nature - best
viticultural and enological competence, therefore capable of proving to get the
best from what he or she harvested in the vineyard. And the best - in
this case - means the least worst. 2017 is a difficult vintage and we
knew this since a long time. How difficult it is, wines will tell us about
that. For the moment, it is quite obvious - also by considering what I have
personally heard from vintners and wine makers - this is not an encouraging
vintage. Let's however be optimistic and wait the moment in which we will pour
2017 wines in our glasses: after all even vintages like 2002 and 2003,
certainly not brilliant ones, have given us good surprises. Quantity in 2017 is
clearly low, quality is not exactly promising, however it is too early to talk
about the wines to be. Dear vintners, wine makers and producers, I know you all
are making the best you can in order to honor your land, your vineyards, your
wines. Despite the fact this 2017 seemed to be really crazy.
Antonello Biancalana
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