I already imagine many of you, dear readers, after having simply read the title
of this editorial, have made an expression of disappointment, even wondering why
Merlot and Chardonnay can truly be deserving of praise. I imagine, not least,
other readers who, reading the same title, agree with me and think – certainly
yes – Merlot and Chardonnay are both deserving of praise. These two varieties
– to tell the truth, not the only ones – are in fact among the most divisive in
the discussions and preferences of wine enthusiasts. There are, in fact, those
who see them as the absolute evil of enology, because of their enological
characteristic of homologizing the sensorial qualities of a wine, while
others recognize them extraordinary elegance and finesse. One thing is certain:
Merlot and Chardonnay are distinguished by their enormous personality, such as to
never go unnoticed when they are part of the composition of a wine, alone or
blended with other grapes.
After all, it is certainly not a fault to have a great personality, rather the
responsibility goes to those who associate them, so to speak, with shy and
modest grapes. It is evident that, in these unfortunate cases, Merlot and
Chardonnay unequivocally prevail without giving any chance – at least, very
little – to the unfortunate blend companions. As far as I'm concerned,
Merlot and Chardonnay are two very great varieties, capable of producing wines of
magnificent class and elegance. This does not always happen, of course, as these
two varieties – just like all the others – in order to reach levels of
excellence, require the existence and scrupulous adoption of equally excellent
conditions. When this does not occur, Merlot and Chardonnay are capable of
creating trivial, ordinary wines, even boring and without any emotion, except the
fact of being however recognized for some sensorial characteristics which always
accompany them. More than possibly blaming Merlot and Chardonnay, it is wiser to
attribute the responsibility to those who have used them in such an inappropriate
way.
Because, let's face it, for years, indeed, decades, these two varieties have been
used everywhere in the world with the hope of performing an enological miracle,
as if they were endowed with who knows what magical properties such as to
transform any wine into gold. Is a wine too thin? Without character and
personality? Does it have faint aromas? Too edgy? No problem: just add Merlot or
Chardonnay – according to style – and enjoy the magic. This has happened – and
continues to happen – in every wine-producing country in the world, even in
those in which the climate and soil are clearly not suitable for the qualitative
cultivation of Merlot and Chardonnay. It is true these two varieties have a
surprising ability of adaptation and that, for better or for worse, their
presence in a wine hardly goes unnoticed. This does not mean their contribution
is always positive or decisive. In some cases, after a quick tasting, in addition
to being disappointing, is even ridiculous and inappropriate.
This last and unfortunate case is not only recurrent in many wines produced with
Merlot and Chardonnay, but it is also evidently the cause of the prejudices
against these two varieties. In this regard, it could be made a virtually endless
list of wines in which Merlot and Chardonnay are used – alone or combined with
other varieties – with decidedly trivial results and which invade the wine
scene of every country in the world with results that do not honor neither Merlot
nor Chardonnay, much less their territories and producers. A phenomenon that
began at the dawn of the 1900s – outside France, of course – when what were
later called international varieties were introduced in many
wine-producing countries of the world and, among these, Merlot and Chardonnay, of
course. In Italy, up until a few decades ago, they were even defined as
ameliorative varieties, with the firm belief their presence was enough to
transform, or rather improve, any wine thanks to a magic of extraordinary
excellence.
When cultivated with high qualitative criteria, in suitable environmental and
climatic conditions, vinified with no less high enological quality – ladies and
gentlemen, hats off – Merlot and Chardonnay are absolutely and flawlessly
capable of creating enological monuments of absolute class, finesse and elegance.
If, at this moment, you are imagining that I am, in some way, alluding to, for
example, Bordeaux and Burgundy, yes, certainly and unquestionably yes, you have
imagined very well. I do not intend to say these two territories are the only
ones in which Merlot and Chardonnay are capable of making great wines, as there
are many wine-growing territories in the world in which these two varieties
– thanks also to the right environmental and technological conditions – have
largely proved peaks of the highest excellence. Will it perhaps be a coincidence,
however, that wherever Merlot and Chardonnay are cultivated, with the intention
of making wine, it is always and inevitably looked to Bordeaux and Burgundy as
examples and references to imitate?
The enological versatility of these two grapes is evidently indisputable. Both
are capable of excellent enological results obtained both in the vinification in
inert containers and – and even better – in wooden ones, with a particular
preference for small sized ones, such as the barrique. Moreover, in wooden
containers, they are capable of great things also with fermentation and not only
with aging. Furthermore, Chardonnay is an impeccable interpreter of classic
method sparkling wines, always generous with superfine class, finesse and
elegance. Again, if you were imagining me possibly alluding to Blanc de Blancs
Champagne, you guessed right. For my part, I imagine some of you could object
arguing that both Merlot and Chardonnay tend to excessively round their wines,
therefore contributing to an annoying and boring sensorial
homologation of their wines and those where they are used in blend with other
grapes. True. After all, it is undeniable, since it is clear and evident, these
two grapes have also a decidedly round character.
However, they are also much more than their roundness, in particular when all the
other organoleptic qualities they have are considered and respected, when they
are cultivated in the right places and, above all, harvested at the right time.
Needless to say, properly vinified. Because it must be said – well yes – both
Merlot and Chardonnay, in addition to roundness, also have acidity and any wine,
regardless of the style, which should lack crispness, would always and in any
case be unbalanced and certainly not very agreeable. Indeed, absolutely
unpleasant. After all, in case Chardonnay were roundness only, its use would be
totally improbable – and with huge worldwide success – in so many classic
method sparkling wines. We can certainly quibble about the way, or rather the
ways, used in the vineyard and winery with Chardonnay and Merlot, very often
questionable. This is something that, undeniably, is true not only for these two
varieties, but to all of them. Moreover, to claim the mere use of two grapes, and
not only Chardonnay and Merlot, can in some way and without further effort lead
to the creation of a quality wine, is not only highly questionable but also the
proof of improbable viticultural and winemaking skills of those who believe in it
and are even convinced of it. This, however and in any case, does not in any way
harm the real reputation and greatness of Merlot and Chardonnay. Two great grapes
and mothers of great wines, magnificent examples of class, elegance and
enological beauty.
Antonello Biancalana
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