It was news a few months ago, in which was made known the disinterest of the new generations in consuming wine, also predicting a progressive decline in consumption for the next 15 years. The fact that wine consumption is not having – so to speak – an exciting time is no longer news, especially that of red wine, ousted from its throne by whites, rosés and sparkling wines. In this sense, information campaigns have certainly played a decisive role as well as the lowering of the legal blood alcohol limits permitted for driving vehicles. In fact, it is no mystery that wines with low alcohol content, as well as those without alcohol or dealcoholized are experiencing a decidedly positive moment in terms of consumption. It must also be said that, in recent years, new drinks are becoming popular with supposed claims – often exaggerated – in health benefits and with very little alcohol, despite the fact that the fermentation of sugars is part in their production process by means of yeasts.

 The recent study conducted by the Enpaia-Censis Observatory, in reality, gives a decidedly different picture and – apparently – young people are quite interested in wine. Furthermore, according to what emerges from a survey carried out by Coldiretti (an Italian association of farmers), young people under the age of 35 are particularly active in the management of agricultural companies and those involved in the production of wine. In short, according to these two studies, not only are young people interested in consuming wine, but they are also interested in its production. However, it remains a fact that, in any case, wine consumption has changed, both in preferences and ways. For completeness, young people also show interest in consuming the “new” drinks that are emerging on the market and which were practically unknown until a few years ago. Wine – inevitably – is called to direct comparison, or rather, to competition, with these new drinks promising wonders in terms of health benefits. Needless to say, a success achieved also for reasons associated to the fad of the moment.

 In this regard, the growing success of non-alcoholic drinks as well as dealcoholized wine – partially or completely – among the so-called young consumers is now a consolidated trend. Drinks such as kombucha and proxies are making their way into the preferences of young consumers, certainly also for reasons associated to fads and current trends. Furthermore, drinks characterized by a more or less marked acidity are becoming popular, often given by acetic acid – kombucha is, in fact, one of these – probably also supported by the supposed, often exaggerated, qualities in health benefits. I obviously have no intention of denying or belittling these drinks given that, as regards kombucha – which I continue to call by its Chinese name Chá Jūn and with whom I knew it more than thirty years ago – as I have been producing and consuming it for decades now. Just like wine, beer and fermented foods in general.

 However, it is clear that every fad, trend, change in consumption preferences has a direct consequence on the market to which it refers and not only in terms of competition. The passing of generations inevitably introduces changes in habits, as well as cultural ones. According to what emerges from the Enpaia-Censis report, 67.7% of young people – in the age group between 18 and 34 years – associate the consumption of wine with occasions about socialization, while 79.1% of people over 65 associate it with meals. Specifically, as already mentioned, 67.7% of young people prefer to consume wine in company, 45.3% in contexts outside the home and 34.4% during meals. In the group of consumers over 65 years of age, 36% associate consumption with social contexts – therefore in the company of others – 14.2% outside the home and, as already mentioned, 79.1% usually consumes wine with meals.

 55.3% of the intermediate consumer group associates the consumption of wine in social contexts, therefore in the company of others, 55% during meals while 34.5% usually have it outside the home. As regards the origin of the wines, 96.5% prefer to consume those of national production and 83.1% of consumers prefer DOP and IGP wines. Furthermore, from this report emerges the strong bond of Italians with nationally produced wine. In fact, 96.2% consider Italian wine a quality product, 96.1% prefer it for its taste, 93.8% for traditional reasons, 92% for identity reasons and 84.4% for sustainability. Furthermore, according to this study, for 54.8% of Italians the choice of a good wine is a source of emotion, specifically, it is for 53.7% of young people, 64.8% of adults and 37.8% of the over 65 age group. Not least, consumer culture is interesting as well: 93.8% consider awareness of moderate and responsible consumption important.

 Specifically, 88.4% of young people, 94.3% of adults and 96.9% of the population over 65 years old. As regards information campaigns with the aim of discouraging the consumption of wine, associating it with any negative effects on health – including the relative warning statements on labels – 75.3% of consumers say they are against it. Specifically, 66.5% of young people, 79.4% of adults and 73.8% of consumers over 65 are contrary to this type of information. The report also collected the opinion of Italian consumers on the effect of climate change in relation to wine. 82.6% believe that the change will affect the availability and production of wine, while being confident in the ability of producers to face the future climate condition, also in terms of sustainability. In fact, 84.4% of Italian consumers believe that national wine is associated with sustainability. This is supported by 79.4% of young people, 85.3% of adults and 86.5% of consumers over 65.

 Apparently, young people's interest in wine is not limited exclusively to the glass. According to a survey carried out by Coldiretti, running a vineyard, and therefore wine production, is among the activities most sought after by young entrepreneurs under the age of 35. According to the Coldiretti study – in fact – in Italy there are over 5500 wine businesses managed by young people under 35 years of age. Furthermore, the new generation of winemakers seems to be particularly attentive and interested in environmental sustainability, conveying and promoting their work above all through the so-called social network channels. According to the survey, young wine producers are particularly attentive to innovation and over 70% of these associate multifunctional activities with wine production such as wine tourism and wine therapy. The phenomenon in mainly common in Apulia, a region in which over a sixth of the total companies run by young people are found, followed by Veneto and Sicily. Finally, according to the Coldiretti survey, the surface area of the vineyards of companies run by young people is 54% higher than the average, as well as producing higher profits than 75% of wineries, employing 50% more staff than the average. These data paint a more prosperous future for wine than it was some time ago, with new generations still showing interest in this industry as well as an awareness of moderate consumption and climate-sustainable practices.

 Trentino and Campania are two decidedly different regions, not only in geographical terms but also from a viticultural and enological point of view. In the first the environment and climate are mainly high hills and mountains, in the second the panorama is mainly hilly, sloping towards the coastal areas. In Campania, as is well known, there are also territories characterized by mountains and, in many of these, viticulture has been practiced since time immemorial. The viticultural and enological vocation of Trentino and Campania evidently differs in a substantial and notable ways, especially due to the varieties of grapes that are grown in the respective vineyards. In both regions there is a rich presence of native varieties and, both in Trentino and Campania, they make a fundamental and identifying element for the wines of the respective regions. The presence of international varieties, however, is decidedly different and, in this sense, evidently distant.

 In Trentino, in fact, in addition to the important presence of native varieties, many of the so-called international grapes are also present in the vineyards, a decidedly common phenomenon that has now been rooted in the local wine culture for decades. In Campania, however, viticulture is mainly based on the cultivation and winemaking of native varieties, while the presence of international grapes is decidedly marginal. In this month's tasting by contrast we examine two wines from the respective regions produced with native grapes. In the case of Trentino, it is a wine produced with Marzemino – an important and celebrated red grape variety of the region – which we will compare with a red wine from Campania, in this case produced in an important denomination of the region, made of Aglianico and Piedirosso. Wines and grapes decidedly different even in wine production: monovarietal for the wine from Trentino, multivarietal for that from Campania.

 Marzemino is undeniably one of the most famous and well-known grapes – and wines – of Trentino-Alto Adige. Also thanks to the famous quote by Lorenzo Da Ponte which made this wine immortal. It is a known story, in fact, that the famous librettist from Veneto, in the equally famous opera “Don Giovanni” by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, had the protagonist exclaim – Don Giovanni, precisely – the request addressed to the servant Leporello “Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzimino!” (“Pour the wine! Excellent Marzimino!”). It was 1787 and the wines of this grape were certainly well appreciated, most likely in Veneto, the land where Lorenzo Da Ponte was born. A proof which could strengthen the hypothesis of the origin of Marzemino in this region – Veneto – where it was certainly known before arriving in Trentino. It must be said, in fact, that the origin of Marzemino is not entirely clear, however the historical information available often places it in Veneto.

 According to some, in fact, the territory of Padua is considered the place of origin of this grape, while others suppose it originates from Carinthia, although a document from 1600 – found in Germany – refers to a “Marzemino of Bassano del Grappa”, in Veneto. Even the origin of the name is not entirely clear. For some it comes from the late Latin Marzarimen that is “March wheat” because of the small size of its berries. Marzemino is mainly associated with Trentino – where it is considered an indigenous variety – however it is also present in the vineyards of Veneto, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Today it is believed that Marzemino originates from Asia Minor, introduced in 1600 in Veneto thanks to the commercial activities of the Republic of Venice, then in Trentino. In this region, Marzemino is mainly cultivated in the southern areas of Trentino, particularly in Vallagarina, Isera and Ziresi, near Rovereto. In accordance with the Trentino DOC production disciplinary, Marzemino is also produced in the superior and reserve styles.

 Whenever the wines of this important denomination of origin of Campania – in the province of Caserta – are mentioned, the association with those of ancient Rome is almost inevitable. In fact, the most famous and celebrated wine in ancient Roman times came from these lands, sought after and appreciated so much that it became legendary: Falernum. This territory was famous in those times as Ager Falernus, an unmistakable sign of the very high vocation and fertility of its lands, not only for the cultivation of vines and the production of wine. The origin of Falernum is lost in the mists of time, among legends and myths, including the benevolence of the Roman god Bacchus who transformed the slopes of Mount Massico into flourishing and prodigious vineyards capable of producing the famous and legendary wine. What is certain, however, is that viticulture has been practiced in these lands since time immemorial.

 It is believed that the cultivation of vines in this territory was started by the Greek-Mycenaean colonizers, subsequently developed by the Etruscans, and finally by the ancient Romans. Today Falerno del Massico is a territory recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Controlled Denomination of Origin, DOC) and its disciplinary provides for the production of red, white and monovarietal wines from Primitivo grapes. The white style is mainly produced with Falanghina, while the red – which we examine in our tasting – is made from the blend of the Aglianico and Piedirosso grapes, known in Campania as pere 'e palummo, that is `pigeon's foot” because of red color of the rachis and peduncle. Falerno del Massico Rosso – which can also be produced as reserve style – is made with Aglianico for a minimum of 60% and Piedirosso for a maximum of 40%. Any remaining part may be made up of red grape varieties allowed in Campania region. In this regard, it should be noted that the majority of Falerno del Massico Rosso is produced exclusively with Aglianico and Piedirosso.

The color of Falerno del Massico Rosso

 The availability of the two wines that we will evaluate in this month's tasting by contrast is relatively common, as their production level is quite good in their respective territories. In fact, it is not unlikely to see them on the shelves of large-scale retail shops – in particular, Trentino Marzemino – and certainly easy to find in any well-stocked wine shop. Speaking of the winemaking technique, it must be said that, in general terms, Trentino Marzemino is frequently aged in inert containers, while Falerno del Massico Rosso is usually aged in cask, including barrique. We will therefore have to consider this important enological factor when evaluating the two wines, trying to filter as much as possible the sensations attributable to the aging in wood. As regards the composition, in consideration of the respective production specifications, we will choose a Trentino Marzemino exclusively produced with this variety, while for Falerno del Massico Rosso we will opt for a bottle produced with Aglianico and Piedirosso. The two wines are served in tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C. (65 °F)

 Let's pour Trentino Superiore and Falerno del Massico Rosso into their respective glasses and begin this month's tasting by contrast. The first wine of which we examine appearance is Marzemino. We tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the base. The color of Trentino wine is intense ruby red, often deep, while observing its edge, towards the opening of the glass, we can clearly see a purple red color. The transparency of Trentino Marzemino – evaluated by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface – is decidedly reduced. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the appearance of Falerno del Massico Rosso and, by holding the glass tilted over the white surface, let's observe the base. Also in this case there is an intense and brilliant ruby red color, while the nuance – observed towards the opening of the glass – reveals a ruby red hue. The transparency of the wine from Campania, despite being low, is generally higher than that of Marzemino.

 The aromas of Trentino Marzemino and Falerno del Massico Rosso are characterized by substantial differences and, in this specific case, also by the enological practices with which they are produced. Furthermore, the olfactory profile of the first wine is the result of a single variety, while that of the second is produced by the union of Aglianico and Piedirosso. Trentino Marzemino can be mainly recognized for its intense olfactory profile of dark and red pulp fruits, in particular, black cherry, plum, raspberry and blackberry. The world of flowers is mainly represented by violets, cyclamen and geranium. Moreover, a characteristic frequently perceived in the glasses of Trentino Marzemino is the pleasing scent of almond. The olfactory profile of Falerno del Massico Rosso is also strongly characterized by aromas of dark pulp fruits, in particular blackberry, plum, blueberry and black cherry. The sensations recalling the world of flowers and perceptible in this wine from Campania are mainly reminiscent of violet and rose.

 Let's continue this month's tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of the two wines, starting – as in the previous phase – from the Trentino Marzemino. Let's hold the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, do the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of the wine, that is, the identification of its primary aromas. From the glass are perceived intense, clean and pleasing aromas of black cherry, plum and raspberry followed by the unmistakable scent of violet. After having swirled the glass, the olfactory profile of Trentino Marzemino is completed with the aromas of blackberry, blueberry, cyclamen and geranium, in addition to the characteristic and pleasing aroma of almond. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the olfactory profile of Falerno del Massico Rosso and proceed with the evaluation of its opening. From the glass we can appreciate the intense and pleasing aromas of blackberry, plum and blueberry as well as that of violet. After having swirled the glass and did the second smell, the olfactory profile is completed with black cherry, blueberry and a touch of rose. In the profile of Falerno del Massico Rosso, also note the contribution of wood, which is totally absent in Trentino Marzemino.

 Let's now move on to the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the two wines of this month's tasting by contrast, starting from the evaluation of the attack, that is, the primary and identifying gustatory sensations of the wines perceived in the mouth. The attack of Trentino Marzemino is of moderate astringency – not excessive, but definitely suited to the style of the wine – as well as a pleasing crispness given by the acidity. These two stimuli find a perfect balance with the effect of alcohol. In the mouth we also perceive a good structure and the flavors of black cherry, plum and raspberry are clearly distinguishable. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the attack of the Falerno del Massico Rosso and, after having taken the first sip, in the mouth we can perceive a moderate astringency – generally more intense than the Trentino wine – and a greater roundness given by the alcohol and the aging in wood. Furthermore, in the mouth we can perceive the flavors of plum, blackberry and blueberry, therefore expressing a good correspondence with the nose.

 After having swallowed the two wines, we proceed with the analysis of the final sensations they leave in the mouth, in particular the taste-olfactory persistence, the primary quality factor. The finish of Trentino Marzemino is persistent and in the mouth we can clearly perceive both the moderate astringency and the pleasing crispness, as well as the sensation of good structure. Furthermore, in the mouth we can continue to perceive the flavors of black cherry, plum, raspberry and blueberry as well as the characteristic and slight bitter hint in which we recognize almond. The finish of Falerno del Massico Rosso is equally persistent and, also in this case, in the mouth we continue to perceive the sensation of moderate astringency in addition to the pleasing roundness given by the aging in wood. Finally, we can also perceive a pleasing hint of crispness given by the acidity, a quality mainly determined by Aglianico. In the mouth we also continue to perceive the intense and pleasing flavors of plum, black cherry, blackberry and blueberry.

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