One of the most famous sons of Montalcino - the enchanting Tuscan town in the
province of Siena - certainly is Brunello, not only the name with which is
locally called Sangiovese Grosso grape, but also - and first of all - a wine,
one of the most renowned and looked for wines of Italy. Brunello di Montalcino
is also that wine which contributed during the past century to the success of
Italian enology in the world and to the affirmation of its quality: a success
that continues still today despite its more than one hundred years of history.
Among the historical wineries which contributed to the success and the
affirmation of Brunello di Montalcino there is Fattoria dei Barbi, a prestigious
name of Tuscan enology which sets its ancient roots in 1790 and established by
Colombini family, which already owned estates in Montalcino since 1352.
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Fattoria dei Barbi and Brunello
di Montalcino: vintages from 1957 to 1996 | |
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In 1790 Colombini family acquired the now famous Fattoria dei Barbi and since
those times they scrupulously committed to viticulture and wine making. In 1840
a Fattoria dei Barbi's Brunello di Montalcino is awarded at an exposition in
Bordeaux: it will be the first of a long series of awards conferred both in
Italy and abroad. The commitment and efforts of Fattoria dei Barbi in the
viticulture and wine is witnessed by an exclusive collection of bottles of
Vinsanto and Brunello di Montalcino of which the most ancient exemplars are
dated back to 1870 until nowadays. Fattoria dei Barbi has also achieved some
interesting records, including the first sale of wine by mail (1936) and, in
1962, the first export of Brunello di Montalcino in Europe and America, the
production, in 1974, of the first grappa of Brunello.
After more than 210 years of history, Fattoria dei Barbi is still today one of
the most known and appreciated producers of Brunello di Montalcino, as well as
other wines such as Rosso di Montalcino, Chianti, Morellino di Scansano,
Vinsanto and some IGTs such as Brusco dei Barbi and Birbone Toscano. Fattoria
dei Barbi also produces olive oil, cheese and cured meat, it owns an
agritouristic business and the restaurant La Taverna dei Barbi where can be
tasted and appreciated the typical cooking of Tuscany and its wines. Today
Fattoria dei Barbi occupies an area of 370 hectares (914 acres), of which more
than 90 (222 acres) used for the cultivation of the vine and the rest used for
olive trees, woods and fields. The average density of vineyards is of more than
4500 plants per hectare. Most of the estate is located in the commune of
Montalcino, whereas in Scansano the property occupies an area of 50 hectares
(123 acres). Fattoria dei Barbi owns two wineries, one at Montalcino and the
other at Scansano, in which are found more than 200 casks, 200 barriques and 120
steel and concrete tanks, with a total capacity of 20,000 hectoliters (about
528,000 gallons). The yearly production of Fattoria dei Barbi is of about
800,000 bottles, of which one third is Brunello di Montalcino.
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| The aging cellar |
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Today Fattoria dei Barbi is run by Stefano Cinelli Colombini, descendant of the
ancient family from Siena and owners since 1790, whose interest for
technological innovation has allowed the ancient winery to achieve further
progresses. Since he started working for Fattoria dei Barbi in 1981, Stefano
Cinelli Colombini has increased the acreage destined to vineyards from 22
hectares (54 acres) to the current 110 (271 acres). In order to accomplish the
goal of improving the quality while respecting tradition, he conducted
researches in Montalcino's vineyards and in the most advanced techniques. The
results obtained in more than twenty years of research on the density of
vineyards and on viticulture - besides 200 years of researches done by the
family - are available at Fattoria dei Barbi. The interest of Stefano Cinelli
Colombini for technology allowed him to create - with the collaboration of
University of Siena and Madrid - the first electronic nose for wine analysis, as
well as an innovative biosensors system for grape analysis in collaboration with
University of Pisa and Tor Vergata (Rome).
In the spirit of joining technology and tradition, Stefano Cinelli Colombini is
studying in collaboration with the University of Pisa, a system that can
recreate the optimal conditions for harvesting, the one typical at the end of
October with grapes and cellars colder than the current average conditions. The
result is represented by the PMF project (Pre-Macerazione a Freddo, Cold
Pre-Maceration) in 2001, with which it is possible to obtain a Brunello with
more polyphenols, tannins and anthocyanins, even twice the normal quantities,
while allowing at the same time to keep the typical characteristics, flavors and
aromas of Sangiovese di Montalcino. This system allows the enrichment of
Brunello without alteration. Stefano Cinelli Colombini's passion for this famous
wine has led him to establish the Museo della Comunità di Montalcino e del
Brunello (Museum of Montalcino's community and Brunello), a non profit
foundation which occupies an area of 1,000 square meters (1,195 square yards)
and having the goal of spreading the history of Brunello and the culture which
created it.
The work of Stefano Cinelli Colombini is also tangible in the commercial aspects
of the winery. During his 25 years of work, Fattoria dei Barbi has increased its
market quotes by increasing the production from 220,000 bottles in 1981 to the
current 800,000 and a total income of ten millions and a half of euros. Fattoria
dei Barbi's wines are currently exported in many countries of the world,
including United States of America, United Kingdom and Canada. In 1997 was
acquired Fattoria del Vivaio at Scansano and today it occupies an area of 104
hectares (256 acres) of which thirty destined to vineyards, a cellar and a
wonderful villa facing towards the Argentario. The current production of
Fattoria dei Barbi is thus divided: about 220,000 bottles of Brunello, 100,000
of Rosso di Montalcino, 60,000 of Morellino di Scansano and the rest of Chianti
and Tuscan IGTs. Fattoria dei Barbi has always believed in low yields per
plants: the average density of vines is 5,200 per hectare allowing a production
of less than 1.5 kilograms (3.3 pounds) per vine, equal to one bottle and a half
per plant. Qualitative selection is very scrupulous: less than 60% of Fattoria
dei Barbi's potential production is bottled as Brunello di Montalcino whereas
the rest is declassed as Rosso di Montalcino.
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