Talking about bubbles - in particular about noble bubbles produced with the classic method - the association with great quality wines is obviously foregone. The charm of bubbles - impossible to deny - takes its origin from the long and prestigious tradition of Champagne, when the wines produced in that area became the symbol of nobility, of a refined and elegant life style, as well as representing an expensive product for the elite. By following the French fame, other countries began the production of wines by means of classic method in the hope of getting the same success. Italy, Spain, United States of America, South Africa and Australia are just few examples of countries in which the production of classic method sparkling wines has a relevant importance. The quality of sparkling wines produced in these countries increased to a level as to compete - frequently with the same opportunities - with the most celebrated and renowned wines of Champagne.

 Despite the production techniques and the grapes used are more or less the same as in Champagne, it is appropriate to remember every area gives its wines its personal character impossible to find elsewhere. Despite this fundamental and important consideration, many wine lovers keep on arguing on which sparkling wine is better, without considering each one of them is unique in its genre. No matter the region of origin, the grapes mainly used for the production of classic method sparkling wines are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, to which are sometimes added grapes belonging to local traditions as well as other grapes capable of giving the wine its typical character. The same can be said for the production system that, despite it is defined in many ways in the respective disciplinary and according to appropriate adaptations, they are all based on the so called classic method - that is the method of the refermentation in bottle - with variable aging time and that can also be of tens of years.

 The wines selected for this month's comparative tasting are all produced according the method of refermentation in bottle. We will compare three vintage sparkling wines - worth representatives of the respective categories - of which we will try to understand analogies and differences. We decided to compare the king of French bubbles - Champagne - with two interesting and excellent Italian wines - renowned worldwide since many years for the quality they expressed - produced in the northern part of the country: Franciacorta and Talento. In all the three wines are present two of the most classic grapes - in different percentages - used for the production of sparkling wines: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Whereas Chardonnay is generally responsible for class, finesse and elegance of wine, Pinot Noir is in charge to give structure, as well as giving its typical organoleptic qualities.

	Everything is ready for our comparative tasting

 According to an organoleptic point of view, the three selected wines offer interesting characteristics of comparison as well as analogies. The Champagne selected for our comparative tasting is Drappier's Grande Sendrée Brut, produced with 55% of Pinot Noir and 45% of Chardonnay, belonging to the millésime category. As for Franciacorta, we selected Ca' del Bosco's Cuvée Annamaria Clementi, produced with 55% of Chardonnay, 25% of Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot Noir fermented and aged in barrique for 7 months, then it follows a refermentation and aging in bottle for 5 years and 8 months. The last wine selected for our tasting is Dorigati's Trento Talento Brut Riserva Methius, produced with 60% Chardonnay - of which a small part fermented in barrique - and 40% Pinot Noir, the wine is refermented and aged in bottle for about five years. The selected vintages will be, in all the three cases, the most recent ones. Serving temperature - because of the fact they are vintage wines and therefore it should be better to favor the development of complex aromas - will be of 12°C (53.6°F). As for glasses, the ideal one is represented by the so called classic method sparkling wine technical glass - generally adopted and proposed by the many production consortiums - however it will also be possible to use the classic ISO tasting glass with excellent results.

 As the wines have been poured in the respective glasses, we will notice all of them will form an abundant froth that will tend to dissolve in few seconds, just like we would expect from any quality classic method sparkling wine. The next characteristic we are going to examine is perlage, that is the quality, quantity and development of bubbles. On this regard it is appropriate to remember the analysis of perlage in sparkling wines represents a quality factor: the finer and more persistent the bubbles, the better the production techniques. In general terms, bubbles in classic method sparkling wines are finer than the ones produced with the Charmat method, thanks to the production method which allows a slower and more efficient solubilization of carbon dioxide in wine. For this reason, in quality classic method sparkling wines, perlage must always be fine and persistent, with bubbles having a diameter lesser than one millimeter and that will develop for many minutes in a continuous and copious chain moving upwards the surface. By observing the development of the perlage in our wines, we will notice some similarities: quick chains of very fine bubbles moving upwards and then moving towards the edge of the glass.

 After having observed the perlage, we will continue our evaluation by examining the color of the three wines. The first wine we will examine is Talento Methius. It will be observed an intense straw yellow color - and by tilting the glass over a white surface - there will be noticed straw yellow nuances in the edge of the liquid mass near the opening. Let's now evaluate Franciacorta Annamaria Clementi: its color will be pale golden yellow with evident nuances of straw yellow. We will notice the color is more intense than Methius: it is good to remember Cuvée Annamaria Clementi is aged for a longer period of time. Let's now observe the color of Drappier's Champagne Grande Sendrée. In this wine the color will be more intense than the other two, it will be noticed a brilliant golden yellow color and nuances of golden yellow, absolutely coherent with its type and the long aging in bottle. Finally, the three glasses will be observed side to side: it will be noticed how the color gets a more intense hue according to the aging time in bottle; paler in Methius, deeper in Franciacorta Annamaria Clementi and in Champagne Grande Sendrée.

 The analysis of aromas certainly is one of the most interesting and amazing aspects of vintage classic method sparkling wines. For this reason it is preferable to taste the three wines at a temperature used for young whites, 11°-12°C (52°-54°F). A lower temperature - there is even who serve these wines at 6°C (42°F), destroying in a moment the patient work of time - would favor the persistence and development of perlage that, despite it is pleasing to see, it will never be as amazing as the complex aromas these wines are capable to express. For the same reason, it would be appropriate to avoid a tight flûte glass in favor of a larger one. The first wine we will examine is Dorigati's Talento Methius. By holding the glass still, we will evaluate the opening aromas: there will be perceived aromas of banana and bread crust. Then - after having swirled the glass - a second smell will be done which will allow the perceiving of intense and pleasing aromas of acacia, pineapple, butter, hawthorn, kiwi, yeast, apple, honey, grapefruit, hazelnut, plum, chamomile and, finally, a pleasing hint of vanilla, the prove of Chardonnay's aging in wood.

 Let's now evaluate Ca' del Bosco's Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi aromas. The opening - done without moving the glass - gives intense aromas of bread crust, yeast, banana and acacia. Let's now swirl the glass as to allow a proper wine oxygenation. There will be perceived intense and refined aromas of apricot, pineapple, apple, pear, litchi, grapefruit as well as a pleasing hint of hazelnut. By continuing the olfactory analysis, there will be noticed more complex aromas - because of the effects of the long aging of wine in bottle on its yeast - of butter and honey, as well as a pleasing aroma of vanilla, effect of the fermentation and aging of base wine in barrique for 7 months. This olfactory impact - for many aspects similar to the excellent Methius - is typical in classic method sparkling wines aged for some years in bottle, where complex aromas wonderfully get married with aromas of fruit and flowers typical of the grapes used for the production.

 The third and last wine of which we will examine aromas is Drappier's Champagne Grande Sendrée Brut. By holding the glass still, there will be perceived intense and pleasing opening aromas such as bread crust, honey and yeast. Let's now swirl the glass in order to favor a proper wine oxygenation, and then let's evaluate aromas. There will be perceived aromas of fruit such as banana, pineapple, apple, litchi and grapefruit as well as a pleasing aroma of orange peel. Moreover, there will be perceived aromas of brioche, butter and praline, as well as a pleasing hint of flint. Pay your attention on the complexity of aromas and their evolution in the glass: a distinctive sign - just like in the other wines - of the patient aging of wine in the bottle on its yeast. The olfactory analysis of the three wines allows the understanding of interesting common factors: in all the three cases are found pleasing aromas of bread crust and yeast, typical in classic method sparkling wines aged for some years in bottle. Even the aromatic sequence of fruit and flowers is similar - although keeping in each case their evident personality - particularly thanks to Chardonnay grape, present in all the three wines.

 The gustatory analysis of the three wines will allow the understanding of some common aspects, typical in classic method sparkling wines aged for some years in bottle. The first wine we will examine is Dorigati's Talento Methius. This excellent Talento will show a balanced crispness and effervescence, intense flavors and - in particular - a very good correspondence of flavors to the aromas perceived to the nose. In particular, it will be noticed the pleasing smoothness of the wine as well as flavors of banana, grapefruit and apple. Finally, it will be examined the alcohol impact of the wine and how it is perfectly balanced by the pleasing crispness. Let's now evaluate Ca' del Bosco's Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi. Even in this case it will be perceived a pleasing crispness and a good effervescence, as well as the excellent correspondence of flavors to the aromas perceived to the nose. Even in this wine the smoothness is a pretty evident gustatory quality - thanks to the long aging in bottle - and that gives the wine a remarkable elegance.

 The long aging in bottle will also give this wine a fuller structure, also supported by the presence of Pinot Noir grape. In the mouth will be perceived - clean and intense - flavors of banana, litchi, apple and pear. Let's now examine Drappier's Champagne Grande Sendrée Brut. Even in this case the attack is clearly crisp and effervescent - well balanced by alcohol - with flavors very correspondence to the aromas perceived to the nose. In this wine will be noticed - in particular - the evident and pleasing smoothness as well as a good structure, in this case fuller than the other two wines. It is good to remember this Champagne is produced with 55% of Pinot Noir which - together with the long aging in bottle - will give the wine a fuller structure. It will also be noticed how in all the three wines - besides the usual crispness and effervescence - is present a pleasing and elegant roundness, generally not found in classic method sparkling wines aged in bottle for few tens of months.

 The final sensations of the three sparkling wines, have in common the long taste-olfactory persistence as to confirm their excellent quality. The finish of Methius leaves in the mouth long flavors of banana, honey, grapefruit, apple and hazelnut, confirming its pleasing and interesting complexity. The finish of Franciacorta Annamaria Clementi will leave long flavors of banana, litchi, pineapple, honey, pear, apple and grapefruit, even in this case, very elegant and with interesting organoleptic complexity. Champagne Grande Sendrée will leave in the mouth long flavors of honey, banana, grapefruit and brioche, all being of remarkable elegance. The evaluation of these three classic methods will allow the understanding of the organoleptic contribution of Chardonnay in all the three wines - in particular the aromatic similarities of fruit and flowers - as well as the contribution of Pinot Noir in structure, also supported by the long aging. Despite analogies - classic method and grapes - it will be noticed how each wine will be different from the others thanks - in particular - to the respective production areas capable of giving the wines an absolutely unique character.

 Among the great wines which made great the history of Italian enology, Marsala is a wine to certainly be mentioned and, among the wineries which made great the history of this illustrious wine, Carlo Pellegrino - with its 125 years of activity - is among the protagonists. The history of Marsala - after its enological rebirth at the end of the 1700's - represents still today an extraordinary event in the scenery of important Italian wines and, undoubtedly, of the world. Carlo Pellegrino winery - founded in 1880 - has always paid particular attention on the production of this extraordinary wine, becoming the protagonist of a story that, after 125 years, is still found in its wines giving the noses of wine lovers a remarkable aromatic impact. In order to celebrate its centennial activity, Carlo Pellegrino wanted to remember this important goal by creating four new Marsalas and in particular two excellent Marsala Vergine. For the commercialization of the new range of Marsala - destined to restaurants and wine shops - Carlo Pellegrino will use a bottle whose aspect has expressly been designed for this occasion and in order to differentiate the new range from the current one.

 The new wines include a Marsala Fine Rubino, a Marsala Superiore Riserva Oro and two new Marsala Vergine Vintage, real rarities for every lover of the great Sicilian fortified wine. They are Marsala Vergine Riserva del Centenario 1980 - with 25 years of aging in cask - and Marsala Vergine Riserva 1962, a wonderful wine with 43 years of aging in cask. Because of this exceptional event, the two wines are available in limited quantities, in particular the 1962. These two prestigious wines are supported by the Marsala Vergine Soleras - Carlo Pellegrino is among the very few wineries in Marsala which still use the Soleras y Criaderas system - therefore confirming the historical commitment of the winery to this wine. The availability of these Marsala Vergine has allowed us to evaluate the three wines in a comparative tasting, therefore understanding the organoleptic development only the patient work of time can achieve and that with Marsala is always rich and surprising. After all, good Marsala - just like the three samples of our tasting - is always capable of giving emotions to the senses of every wine lovers who in a wine is always looking for the pleasure of complex, rich, surprising and charming aromas. And on this regard, good Marsala has always been a loyal companion of meditation.

Marsala Vergine Soleras
Carlo Pellegrino (Italy)
Grapes: Grillo
Price: € 10.00	Score:
The wine shows a brilliant amber yellow color and nuances of amber yellow, transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing and refined aromas which start with the characteristic hint of Marsala, dried fig and almond followed by aromas of date, licorice, walnut, orange marmalade, enamel and leather. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a hot attack and appreciable crispness, however balanced, full body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of dried fig, almond and date. This Marsala ages for more than 5 years in cask.
Food Match: Hard and piquant cheese, Almond confectionery

Marsala Vergine Riserva del Centenario 1980
Carlo Pellegrino (Italy)
Grapes: Grillo, Catarratto
Price: € 38.00	Score:
This Marsala shows an intense amber yellow and nuances of amber yellow, transparent. The nose denotes intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of rancho, dried fig and orange marmalade followed by aromas of date, ethereal, licorice, porcino mushroom, honey, walnut, vanilla, enamel, coffee and leather. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a alcoholic attack and appreciable crispness, pleasing smoothness, however balanced, full body, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of dried fig, almond and coffee. A well made wine. This Marsala ages in oak casks.
Food Match: Hard and piquant cheese, Almond tarts

Marsala Vergine Riserva 1962
Carlo Pellegrino (Italy)
Grapes: Grillo, Catarratto
Price: € 50.00	Score:
This Marsala shows a deep amber yellow color and nuances of amber yellow, transparent. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas which start with hints of rancho, almond and fig jam followed by aromas of dried apricot, date, leather, caramel, coffee, porcino mushroom, licorice, orange marmalade, walnut, hazelnut, tobacco, enamel and vanilla. The mouth has very good correspondence to the nose, an alcoholic attack and appreciable crispness, pleasing roundness, however balanced, full body, intense flavors. The finish is very persistent with long flavors of fig jam, almond, date, coffee and hazelnut. A great Marsala. This reserve ages in oak casks.
Food Match: Hard and piquant cheese, Almond tarts