Umbria is a land of saints and heroes, but also of Sagrantino! This
extraordinary autochthonous grape of the Green Heart of Italy, also thanks to
the tenacity and will of producers, has been successful in reaching the top of
Italian wine, representing Umbria and Italy in the world. A hard way walked in a
little more than 30 years, which transformed Sagrantino from a traditional sweet
wine, to one of the most interesting dry red wines of Umbria and Italy. It was
in fact at the beginning of the 1790s which started the first experiments in
the production of a dry wine by using that robust and rough grape, with which
since centuries was produced in the area of Montefalco a sweet and robust wine
which traditionally matched the equally robust roasted meats and hard cheeses.
Dry Sagrantino has walked a long way, and today the production in Montefalco is
mainly about the dry style instead of the sweet one, climbing to the top of the
Olympus of Italian wines.
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| The entrance arc of Antonelli San
Marco winery |
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A great result, if we consider Sagrantino has considerably risked to disappear
from Montefalco's vineyards in the period in which other and more famous grapes
were catching the attention of local producers, while promising an easier and
rich harvest. They began to replace Sagrantino vineyards with other grapes,
therefore losing the interest for the historical wine of this place: Sagrantino
wine was produced less and less and only thanks to the will of few and stubborn
producers, who were affectionate, luckily, to their grape. The name Sagrantino
comes from the Latin sacer, therefore sacred, as the wine was
traditionally consumed in occasion of Christian holidays, in particular Easter.
Pliny the Elder in his monumental Naturalis Historia wrote in this area
was present the Itriola grape, however it is not clear whether it was
what we call today Sagrantino. In fact, there are no reliable information about
the origin of the famous grape of Montefalco.
Besides believing Sagrantino is a local indigenous variety of Montefalco, among
the hypothesis about its origin, it is also believed this grape was introduced
by Saint Francis's followers coming back from Asia Minor, or it could also be
introduced during the barbarian invasions of Saracens. Written documents dated
back to 1088 AD report about the presence of vineyards in Coccorone - the
ancient name of Montefalco - and from the half of the fifteenth century on,
strict communal laws were promulgated for the regulation of vineyards' care.
From 1540 the date of Sagrantino harvesting was set by a specific communal law.
The first important goal for Sagrantino di Montefalco was reached in 1979, when
it acquired the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata status (Denomination
of Controlled Origin, DOC), followed in 1992 by the Denominazione
d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed
Origin, DOCG). Today the wine making reality of Montefalco is flourishing in a
continuous development in search of quality, and among the most representative
wineries of the area, there is Antonelli San Marco winery, among the most
ancient ones in Montefalco.
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Clusters of Sagrantino grape drying | |
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The place where Antonelli San Marco winery is located was in past times a
Longobard court known as San Marco de Corticellis. The ancient court,
from the thirteenth to the nineteenth century, was property of the Bishop of
Spoleto and the borders of Antonelli San Marco's estate are the same described
in a document of the thirteenth century and kept in the episcopal archive of
Spoleto. In 1881, Francesco Antonelli, a lawyer from Spoleto, acquired the
property and transformed it drastically, including the planting of new
specialized vineyards: in a report of 1902 it is read in vineyards were planted
5,000 vines per hectare. In 1979 the winery begins the bottling and
commercialization of its wines, which were previously commercialized at
wholesale. In 1992, after having restored the Casale Satriano, was started
the wine tourism activity. The winery and the estate is now property of engineer
Antonio Antonelli and lawyer Giacomo Antonelli, both living in Rome.
The winery is run since 1986 by Filippo Antonelli, who lives between Montefalco
and Rome where he also runs the Castello di Torre in Pietra winery. The estates
of Antonelli San Marco covers an area of 170 hectares - of which 40 destined to
vineyards - all being located in the commune of Montefalco, in the center of the
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG production area. The average altitude of vineyards
is 350 meters, in hills of clay soils and rich in limestone. Vineyards are
mainly exposed to South with a density of 5,700 vines per hectare. The
production cellar is found at the center of the winery, under the main building.
Recently has been built an underground fermentation room on two levels, in order
to allow the vinification and the operation of decanting by gravity, that is
without using pumps which would damage the integrity of skins. The harvesting of
grapes is done by hand and after crushing, the must is transferred by gravity to
the underground rooms where the processes of fermentation and maceration take
place.
Also the decanting is done by gravity by allowing the wine to go down to the
lower room where it will start malolactic fermentation. The wine is then
transferred in casks, which are found in the underground rooms, in order to
ensure a constant temperature. Antonelli San Marco winery has a total capacity
of about 5,500 hectoliters, with an annual production of about 2,000 hectoliters
and 270,000 bottles. Antonelli San Marco winery follows its own productive
philosophy characterized by the continuous research and improvement of its
wines, according to the style of the winery and its typicality, to the balance
and elegance, instead of power: a result obtained by delicate extractions and a
moderate use of wood. For this reason the casks used for the aging of wines are
made from French oak with a fine grain and moderate toasting. For the 25% of
red wines which are aged in wood, new casks are being used, whereas the
remaining 75% is aged in used casks. Wines produced in this way - in particular
Sagrantino - are not immediate. In fact, the wines benefits from prolonged
aging in bottle therefore giving with time interesting evolutions, confirming
the Antonelli San Marco style which distinguishes since many years this
prestigious winery of Montefalco.
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