2017 seems to be one of those years we will remember for a very long time. I am not talking about the quality of its wines - something, of course, we cannot discuss right now - indeed for its whims and unusual events about meteorology. What it is happening in 2017, from a weather point of view and its effects in meteorology, is causing a lot of troubles to agriculturists and farmers. Including vintners, of course. In case we are going to consider the fact it is just the beginning of summer and before getting to harvesting time some months have still to pass, there is nothing to be happy for. The same is true for those working on other types of cultures: before harvesting the fruits of this year, they need to wait for some time to pass. Not to mention the agricultural activities in which harvesting the fruits of the year occurs in fall, such as olives for making oil.

 An extreme year. After having severely lashed vineyards and other cultures with those extreme frosts last April - causing serious damages - it seems 2017 is not done yet in giving troubles to agriculturists. From one extreme to another, from severe and unexpected low temperatures in April, to the unbearable sultriness of the end of spring and beginning of summer. Indeed, it is not the heat to give troubles to vintners and agriculturists. The unexpected and intense heat has contributed to make things worse in terms of water reserves of the soil, it is evidently dry, also because of the very long absence of rains. It does not rain, and for a very long time, therefore what it is giving most of the troubles now is drought. If April's frosts have caused serious damages everywhere in Italy, by seriously compromising the hope of harvesting, what has been survived to that event is now severely threatened by drought.

 The absence of rains was something causing preoccupations to agriculturists since the beginning of spring. When the frosts happened in April, they forced everyone to focus on this grave event, however the problem of drought was already preoccupying vintners and farmers. At the beginning of April, before the arrival of frosts, Coldiretti (an Italian association of agriculturists) reported damages caused by drought, a problem preoccupying agriculturists and vintners quite a lot since then. Last April, in fact, Coldiretti reported the maximum temperatures in Italy were higher than 2.5 °C than the average with a diminution, during March, of 53% of rains. The consequence, one of the many, has been the lowering of Po river - the longest Italian river - as to make it reach, in April, the same level reported in summer 2016. Coldiretti also reported rains in Italy were already below than the season's average.

 The quantity of winter rains in Italy has been lower of 67% than the average. Last April Coldiretti expressed its concerns for the scarce quantity of rains and snow, fundamental for reconstituting soil's water reserve. In other words, the soil - as of April - provided a very low quantity of water with serious consequences for plants. With the arrival of frosts, things - of course - did not get any better. If drought was threatening the life of plants from “below”, frosts were doing the same from the “above”. According to Coldiretti, this is the result of climate changes occurring in Italy, with an evident change to season cycles, which effects have caused, in the last ten years, damages for more than fourteen billions euros. These figures - evidently both negative and preoccupying - did not get better and what happened in the following months, made even the most optimistic ones change their minds.

 We are now in summer and - like it was predicted - things did not get better, indeed, the preoccupations have increased and quite a lot. The new figures reported by Coldiretti tell about an even more serious condition than last April. With the arrival of the torrid heat in June and the lack of rains in spring, drought is now giving a lot of preoccupations to farmers. The new figures say rains in spring have been 50% less than the average, a condition widely determined by the lack of rains in winter. The grave drought in Italy is so preoccupying some regions have called for a state of emergency. In certain areas, moreover, the scarcity of water also affected the availability of water in towns and villages. Drought, it is now clear, is compromising the harvesting of vegetables, cereals and fruits and the sustenance of livestock is critical as well.

 Winter and spring 2017 - according to Coldiretti - respectively ranked third and second among the seasons with the lower quantity of rains from 1800 and damages are believed to be about one billions euros. Farmers, those who can, of course, are forced to irrigate the fields in order to save the crops. 2017, with its anomalous weather, is confirming the trend of climate changes occurring in the last years. These events - once again and it should be taken with scrupulous attention and consideration - must unavoidably make us think about what it is happening and we absolutely need to find a remedy for this. Consequences are evidently catastrophic for everyone, including agriculture which is the fundamental activity for the sustenance and nourishing of the world. Wine production, too, will unavoidably suffer consequences. Let's hope this 2017 will stop this crazy weather and may it welcome a highly desired and necessary normality.

 The tasting by contrast of this month will compare two important varieties of the Italian wine scene, interesting representatives of Alto Adige and Latium. These two varieties - Schiava and Cesanese - do not benefit, to tell the truth, of the notoriety of other well-known grapes, however it is undeniable they are capable of making quality wines and of remarkable interest. Both varieties have a long history well rooted in remote times, widely mentioned and appreciated in their respective territories since many centuries. Despite they do not benefit of the notoriety of other Italian grapes, both Schiava and Cesanese have a solid importance in their respective territories, undoubtedly very significant grapes in those lands. The cultivation of Cesanese has always been typical in Latium - in particular in the areas of Castelli Romani and Ciociaria - Schiava has been in the past the protagonist of a beautiful and important story for wine making in Lombardy.

 Schiava has in fact been the protagonist of the viticulture in the Alto Milanese area - near Milan - in particular in Legnano, a tradition now gone. It is the story of the renowned Vino dei Colli di Sant'Erasmo, a wine produced until the end of 1980s with Schiava grape, locally known as Botascera. This wine became known even outside their original land, Colli di Sant'Erasmo, thanks to the particular production technique, had a good body and perceptible tannins. This result was obtained by drying Schiava grapes before being crushed and fermentation was done in wood barrels. Cesanese is still today the main protagonist of red wines of Latium, in particular in Piglio - a village in province of Frosinone - Affile and Olevano Romano, in province of Rome, virtually found in every red wine of those territories. Schiava and Cesanese are varieties having very different characteristics, perfect grapes to be compared with the technique of tasting by contrast.

 Schiava is the variety used for the production of wines belonging to the appellations of Santa Maddalena and Lago di Caldaro, both in province of Bozen, in Alto Adige, Italy. A grape also known with the German name of Vernatsch, Schiava should be more properly called Schiava Nera (Black Schiava) and of which are known three varieties: Schiava Gentile or Piccola, Schiava Grossa and Schiava Grigia. Of the three, “gentile” (gentle) is the most common one used for the production of wines and, frequently, Schiava wines in Alto Adige are generally produced with all the three varieties. These three Schiava varieties are characterized by a different size and shape of leaves, bunches and berries, however making wines basically having the same sensorial qualities. All are characterized by a remarkable quantity of pruina covering its berries and, except Schiava Grigia, they have a deep blue-purple color, more or less having violet tones.

 The origin of Schiava is not certain, however it is commonly believed it is a variety of very ancient origins. It is very likely the name comes from the type of cultivation providing for the vines of this variety tied to wooden poles, for this reason vineyards were defined as cum vineis sclavis (with enslaved vines. Schiava is Italian for “slave”). The technique was called like that because drastically different from the ancient and common technique of vite maritata (married vine), which allowed vines to freely climb a tree. It is therefore the ancient definition of modern viticulture in which vines are neatly planted in rows and tied to poles. Schiava - besides in Alto Adige - is also found in some territories of Lombardy, however it is in the territory of Alto Adige it makes the most significant wines. Characterized by a color with a moderate transparency, Schiava is used for the production of red and rose wines - with an elegant and immediate character - sometimes aged in cask.

 Cesanese is the most important indigenous red berried grape of Latium and the wines produced with this variety were known since remote times. Its origins are uncertain despite it is commonly believed it originates from Latium and, in particular, from the territory of Rome and Ciociaria, the characteristic area in south Latium. Cesanese grape exists in two different varieties: Cesanese Comune and Cesanese di Affile. These two varieties are frequently used together for the production of wines called with this name, however it should be noted wines produced in Affile are mainly made of Cesanese di Affile. This grape is protagonist of three important appellations of Latium: Cesanese di Affile, Cesanese di Olevano Romano and Cesanese del Piglio, the latter one being Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita wine. Cesanese, both varieties, is also found in other Denominazioni d'Origine Controllata wines of Latium.

 On this regard, it should be noted Cesanese - although it is not so common or used in these territories - is also allowed for the production of red wines in the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata of Rosso Orvietano and Lago di Corbara, both in Umbria. Cesanese is a variety appreciated since remote times and, still today, its quality of making interesting wines is unaltered. The many mentions of the past authors did in their writings are the direct proof of the historical importance of Cesanese and its quality. The red of Latium makes wines of good structure, with a good astringency, characteristics allowing the production of different wine styles, including sweet and sparkling wines. The wine making versatility of Cesanese allows the vinification both in inert containers - cement and stainless steel tanks - and wooden cask and barrique. This red variety of Latium is also used in many wines of the region and blended to other varieties.

The color of Cesanese del Piglio

 Our tasting by contrast will examine - as usual - wines exclusively produced with the grapes to be evaluated in our study. As for Schiava, we will choose a wine belonging to Denominazione d'Origina Controllata Lago di Caldaro, also known as “Caldaro” or “Kalterersee”. Most of this wine is generally produced with Schiava Gentile, however it may likely varieties “Grossa” and “Grigia” to be used as well, although in smaller quantities. As for the wine produced with the red grape of Latium, we will choose a Cesanese del Piglio, DOCG wine of this region and which may also be simply called “Piglio”. This wine can be made from both Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese Comune grapes, a characteristic, in this case, negligible for our purpose. For both wines we will make sure they have been vinified in inert containers and having not more than two years of age, served at the temperature of 17 °C (63 °F) in tasting glasses.

 Let's pour the wines of our tasting in their respective glasses and begin the evaluation of their organoleptic characteristics starting from the appearance analysis. In doing this, we will need a white surface - a clean sheet of paper will do - and tilt the glass of Lago di Caldaro over it, the first wine we will examine. Schiava, observed at the base of the glass, shows a brilliant ruby red and a moderate transparency: the object put behind the glass can be clearly seen. Nuances, observed at the edge of the wine, towards the opening of the glass, shows the same color. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Cesanese del Piglio and tilt the glass over the white surface. At the base of the glass we will observe an intense ruby red color and an evidently lower transparency than Lago di Caldaro. Nuances of Cesanese, observed near the opening of the glass, show a ruby red color, sometimes with violet tones as well.

 Schiava and Cesanese makes wines with different olfactory profiles. Schiava gives to the nose of the taster a profile of aromas in which can be mainly perceived fruits with a red pulp and a good richness of aromas recalling flowers. Cesanese, having a profile with evidently different aromas, gives the nose sensations mainly recalling fruits with a dark pulp and, also in this case, there are aromas recalling the world of flowers. In wines produced with grapes belonging to Schiava Nera family are easily recognized aromas of cherry, raspberry, blueberry and strawberry, as well as cyclamen and violet. Most of the times, wines produced with Schiava grape are characterized by a pleasing smell of almond. Cesanese gives aromas of plum, black cherry, blueberry and blackberry, sometimes raspberry too, as well as aromas of violet and, in certain cases, it can also be perceived the smell of cyclamen.

 Let's now evaluate the olfactory profiles of Lago di Caldaro and Cesanese del Piglio, starting from the wine produced with Schiava. Let's hold the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of Schiava. From the glass are perceived intense and pleasing aromas of cherry, raspberry and blueberry. Let's now swirl the glass in order to favor the development of the other aromas, therefore completing the profile of wine. Let's do a second smell: Schiava now gives aromas of strawberry, violet and cyclamen, as well as the characteristic almond aroma. We are now going to evaluate the olfactory profile of Cesanese del Piglio and proceed with the first smell. The opening of this wine gives intense aromas of black cherry, plum and blackberry, a profile very different from Schiava. After having swirled the glass, let's proceed with a second smell which will complete the profile of wine with blueberry, cyclamen, rose and raspberry, sometimes black currant as well.

 Differences between Schiava and Cesanese are well perceptible and evident also in the phase of gustatory analysis. Just like for the previous phases, let's start from Lago di Caldaro. Take a sip of the wine from Alto Adige and evaluate its attack: Schiava is easily recognized for its characteristic and pleasing crispness - given by acidity - well balanced by the effect of alcohol. Astringency is quite moderate with an average body, in the mouth are perceived flavors of cherry, raspberry and blueberry. Let's now take a sip of Cesanese del Piglio in order to evaluate the attack. In the mouth is perceived a fuller structure than Schiava, a more intense astringency which is well balanced both by roundness and alcohol. Crispness is clearly lower than Schiava and in the mouth are evidently perceived flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry.

 The fourth and last phase of our tasting by contrast will be about the evaluation of final sensations left in the mouth by the wines after having swallowed them. The finish of Lago di Caldaro - our wine produced with Schiava grape - is persistent, leaving in the mouth intense and pleasing flavors recalling cherry, raspberry and blueberry, as well as the characteristic and slightly bitter flavor of almond. The finish of Cesanese del Piglio is equally persistent, leaving in the mouth pleasing flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry. Let's now compare the finish of both wines and, in particular, the sensations of crispness, roundness and body. Schiava leaves in the mouth a more intense crispness sensation than Cesanese, whereas in the wine from Latium will be roundness and body to be more intense than the wine from Alto Adige. Schiava and Cesanese, as it is clearly evident by our tasting by contrast, make wines with remarkable differences, in both cases having profiles of agreeableness and elegance.

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