The consumption of wine, just like every social expression, is regulated by marketing trends and, equally important, fads repeating in the course of time, cyclically favoring specific wine styles. The two main styles which are periodically taking the lead in the consumption are white and red. These styles alternatively win the crown of style of the moment, in a competition now repeating since many decades. There are then two styles - sparkling and rosé wines - which hardly try to reach the top of the ranking of wine consumption, however always staying far away from the top. Of the two, sparkling wines - no matter the production method - have their own niche, in particular during holidays. Although they are not exclusively used for celebrating special moments, they however are the favorite wines for celebrating or remembering a special event. Sweet and fortified wines, unfortunately, are always at the bottom of this ranking.

 Rosé wines evidently have a hard time to find a way in consumption trends, frequently considered as the aliens of the world of wine, their consumption alternates from oblivion to resurrection caused by the fads of the moment. The world of rosé wines is evidently vast: the variety of territories and producers are of remarkable interest, with bottles capable of expressing very high quality levels. For the sake of truth, it is impossible to forget the quality of rosé wines of the past, most of the times being mediocre, playing the role of the ugly duckling of wine making. It is something clearly belonging to the past - and I hope they will remain associated to that era - as today the overall quality of rosé wines is clearly distant from those times and producers are finally considering this style with a quality approach. This is also because of the “new life” rosé wines are living now, also thanks to a new fad which transformed them into trendy wines.

 Talking about rosé wines, it should be noticed there are not table wines only, a style that - like already said - has always lived alternating moments of preference and quality. Something evidently different for rosé sparkling wines, in particular those produced with the classic method, frequently favored by bubble lovers and considered by them quality wines. I am of course among them, as rosé bubbles certainly are my favorite classic method sparkling wines. A passion indissolubly associated to my beloved Pinot Noir, a love equally strong and passionate even in case it is vinified as red. A well known fact to those who love the famous red grape from Burgundy, not all the Pinot Noir does glitter and the many mediocre bottles around are there to prove the red from Burgundy is not something which can be mastered by every producer and territory.

 Pinot Noir is obviously not the only red grape used for the production of rosé wines, however it certainly is the most noble and interesting variety for the production of rosé sparkling wines. On this regard, we should notice a rosé wine is produced by using the must of red grapes macerated with skins for a very short time in order to give a pink color. As it is commonly known, in fact, substances giving a red color, as well as pink, to wines is extracted from the skins of red berried grapes. The longer the maceration time, the higher the quantity of color extracted, of course limited to the coloring capacity of the grape. The production of rosé wines takes few hours of maceration, just the time needed to get the desired pink color. At the end of maceration skins of the grape are separated from the must, then the fermentation and vinification are the same as in every regular white wine.

 I have always had a certain interest for rosé wines, nevertheless for wine in general, no matter the making style, in particular for their versatility at the table. Most of the times they represent the solution “in the middle”, that is they are practically perfect in those cases in which a white wine is not enough and a red is simply too much. Last but not the least, rosé wines, in particular those produced with a short maceration, can be enjoyed in the so called “aperitifs”: served at a cool temperature they give a pleasing relief to the summer heat. I am therefore happy to see rosé wines are, like to say, becoming a fad again, although I am confessing I would also like to see the same appreciation and interest for rosé bubbles as well. In particular those produced with the classic method, a style for which - I confess it - I am very exacting and I can easily get upset when in my glass I have, like to say, not worthy representatives.

 During all these years dedicated to wine, I have witnessed tens of attempts for the reevaluation of rosé wines, some disputable both for the form and message, others were more convincing however not exactly effective. This was also because of the scarce attention producers dedicated to rosé wines, most of the times considered as lesser wines, with evidently disappointing qualitative results. Of course, the reevaluation of a product, no matter what it is, needs - first of all - quality and, on this regard, things have evidently changed, and for the good, in regard to past years. It is in fact becoming more and more common to taste rosé wines of very high quality, something clearly giving hope, like to say, for a better future. In particular for the fact rosé wines are less and less produced as a “by-product” of red wines, in particular by using the bleeding technique. Quality in wine is everything in order to be credible, rosé wines are no exception in this, and the lesson learned for white and red wines is there to teach us quality and honesty are the key for success. Also and especially for rosé wines.

 In the vast enological scenario of Italian white wines, in which every region has interesting grapes capable of producing wines of absolute value, Liguria and Friuli Venezia Giulia are among the best areas for white berried grapes. This month we will examine two white grapes which, in their respective regions are protagonists of wines among the most representative ones of the two territories. Pigato, one of the most renowned grapes of Liguria, and Ribolla Gialla, valuable white berried grape of Friuli Venezia Giulia, are the protagonists of this month's tasting by contrast. Grapes different one from each other in many regards, perfect for a comparison based on differences, they will emphasize their respective characteristics, in both cases capable of giving white wines of remarkable interest.

 The two regions - Liguria and Friuli Venezia Giulia - have interesting white berried grapes and with which are being produced among the most representative wines in their respective territories. Pigato and Ribolla Gialla are very different varieties and make wines with remarkable differences as well. The grape from Liguria in fact makes wines of very good elegance and an average structure, whereas Ribolla Gialla wines, they too having of excellent quality, have a good structure and a more intense roundness. Differences between the two varieties are not of course limited to structure and body, as the distances are evident in every organoleptic aspect. The sensorial analysis of the two wines in fact reveals evident differences beginning with the aspect, as well as in their olfactory and gustatory profiles.

 Among the most renowned white berried grapes of Liguria, Pigato is used in the making of wines of this region both alone and blended to other varieties. This valuable white grape is virtually present in Liguria only, in particular in the provinces of Imperia and Savona. Pigato is in fact one of the main varieties of wines belonging to Denominazione d'Origine Controllata Riviera Ligure di Ponente, mainly used for mono-varietal wines. Pigato, despite is also used blended to other white berried grapes, gives its best when vinified alone. A frequent choice for producers of Liguria who cultivate Pigato, in order to emphasize the elegance of this grape also in regard of the characteristics of the territories where it is cultivated in. The importance of Pigato in the appellation Riviera Ligure di Ponente is such as to have three sub-zones reserved to its production: Albenganese, Finalese and Riviera dei Fiori.

 The origin of Pigato are not completely clear. For many this famous variety from Liguria would be the same as Vermentino - widely common in Liguria - however the results obtained by many studies done about this aspect could not confirm this theory. The analogies of Pigato and Vermentino are such that many still believe it is the same variety or, however, a clone of Vermentino. Wines produced with the two varieties, probably also because of the peculiarities of the territories, have evident and significant sensorial characteristics. It is very likely the name comes from pigau, a dialectal term meaning stained, because of the tiny dark spots found in the skin of mature berries. In general terms, Pigato is vinified in inert containers in order to keep the freshness of its aromas recalling fruits and flowers, however some producers successfully vinify this grape also in wood, including the barrique.

 Ribolla Gialla is one of the many important grapes protagonists of the vast enological scenario of white wines in Friuli Venezia Giulia. The origin of this white variety is not completely clear, however it is certain it is a grape of very ancient origins, found in this regions and in the neighboring Istria since many centuries. The first written mention of Ribolla Gialla is dated back to 1299: it is a notarial deed in which is stipulated a bill of sale. Before this date, we can only make suppositions. For some Ribolla Gialla would correspond to the Avola grape introduced by ancient Romans; for others pucinum - a wine mentioned by Pliny the Elder - was produced with this grape. Another theory wants this variety to be the Rebola grape from the Greek island of Cephalonia and introduced in these lands by Venetian merchants. Despite these certainly are fascinating suppositions, none of the above theories have been proven in a reliable and certain way.

 The presence and importance of Ribolla Gialla in these lands is such to become a “generic” name used to call many white wines of this territory known as “Collio”. Even today Ribolla Gialla is particularly common in this area - both in the Friuli Venezia Giulia's side and Slovenia's - used for the production of wines having a remarkable value. In Friuli Venezia Giulia, the territory around the city of Gorizia seems to be particularly suited to the cultivation of Ribolla Gialla, here in fact are produced the most interesting wines from this variety. Besides Collio, Ribolla Gialla is found in wines of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata Colli Orientali del Friuli, where - in both appellations - is allowed the production of mono-varietal wines from this grape. The wine making versatility of Ribolla Gialla is quite remarkable as to be used for the production of many styles - including classic method sparkling wines - giving excellent results both in the vinification in inert and wood containers.

The color of Pigato

 The wines we will choose for our tasting by contrast are exclusively produced with the grapes mentioned for our study. The choice will not be so difficult as both Pigato and Ribolla Gialla are frequently used for the production of mono varietal wines, despite the appellations of Liguria and Friuli Venezia Giulia providing for mono-varietal wines produced with these grapes allow the adding of a minimum quantity of other varieties as well. As for Pigato, we will choose a bottle belonging to the Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato DOC, of course vinified in steel tanks. The wine produced with Ribolla Gialla to be compared to Pigato will be represented by a bottle produced in the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata Collio, also in this case vinified in steel tanks. Both wines must belong to the latest commercialized vintage - that is the most recent one - and served in tasting glasses at the temperature of 10 °C. (50 °F)

 We are now ready to start out tasting by contrast, let's therefore pour both wines in their respective glasses. The first wine we will examine is Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato. Let's observe the base of the glass: Pigato shows a brilliant straw yellow color and, by tilting the glass over a white surface and observing the edge towards the opening, nuances reveal a greenish yellow hue. Transparency, evaluated by putting an object between the tilted glass and the white surface, is very high and clearly allowing seeing beyond the wine. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the aspect of Collio Ribolla Gialla. By tilting the glass over a white surface, the wine from Friuli reveals an intense straw yellow, frequently having a golden yellow hue, clearly deeper than Pigato. Nuances, observed at the edge of the wine, towards the opening of the glass, shows a straw yellow hue with evident golden tones.

 The olfactory profiles of Pigato and Ribolla Gialla, just like appearance, are characterized by remarkable differences. In wines produced with these grapes are perceived aromas recalling white and yellow pulped fruits, as well as flowers, however the intensity and variety perceived in both has remarkable differences. In Pigato are mainly perceived aromas of apple, peach, sometimes apricot, as well as flowery aromas in which can be perceived hawthorn and broom. In the grape from Liguria are also perceived aromas recalling aromatic herbs, including thyme and rosemary, sometimes almond which is also possible to perceive to the taste. In the olfactory profile of Ribolla Gialla can be appreciated aromas of apple, pear and peach, to which usually follow aromas of citrus fruits and tropical fruits, in particular pineapple. In this grape are also found aromas recalling flowers, including hawthorn and broom.

 Let's now evaluate the differences between the wines of our tasting by contrast, starting from Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato. By holding the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, let's do the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of the wine, that is the initial aromas developing from the glass. The opening of Pigato is characterized by intense and clean aromas of apple, peach and hawthorn. After having swirled the glass, an operation favoring the development of the other aromas of the wine, Pigato will complete its olfactory profile with pear, apricot, broom and plum, sometimes followed by rosemary and thyme. Let's now pass to the evaluation of Collio Ribolla Gialla's opening. From the glass, held in vertical position and without swirling, will be perceived clean and intense aromas of apple, pear and hawthorn. After having swirled the glass, the olfactory profile of Ribolla Gialla is completed by peach, pineapple, broom and citrus fruits, sometimes followed by the pleasing aromas of acacia.

 Let's now pass to the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of both wines, starting - just like for the previous phases - from Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato. Take a sip of this wine and evaluate the attack, that is the initial sensations perceived in the mouth. We will perceive a pleasing crispness, given by acidity, as well as a good body and a moderate roundness. Correspondence to the nose is very good and can be clearly perceived flavors of apple, peach and pear, as well as apricot and plum. Let's not take a sip of Collio Ribolla Gialla in order to evaluate the attack of this wine. We will perceive, also in this case, an evident sensation of crispness and a good structure, as well as a good correspondence to the nose. We will in fact perceive flavors of apple, pear and peach, as well as a pleasing sensation of tropical fruits, in particular pineapple. Let's take again a sip of Pigato and then one of Ribolla Gialla: now compare the balance of both wines in regard to acidity and roundness.

 The ending phase of the tasting by contrast will examine the final sensations both wines are leaving in the mouth after having swallowed them, in particular taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Pigato has a good persistence, leaving in the mouth a pleasing sensation of crispness and a moderate roundness. We will still perceive flavors of apple, peach and apricot, sometimes followed by a slightly bitter sensation recalling almond, a characteristic common in Pigato wines. The finish of Collio Ribolla Gialla is equally having a good persistence and in the mouth is perceived a pleasing crispness as well as a moderate structure, followed by a perceptible roundness. Let's now take a sip of Pigato and Ribolla Gialla: the slightly bitter sensation of Pigato is now evident, a characteristic clearly having a lesser intensity in Ribolla Gialla.

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