There is no peace in the vineyards of Bordeaux. The vintners of the famous French wine land – among the most iconic in the world – are decidedly concerned and are making no secret of it. The French wine industry, to tell the truth, also the one of other countries, is going through a not exactly flourishing period, with significant drops in consumption and sales such as to arouse quite a concern among the producers of the country. Figures are saying the sales and export of French wines, especially those of Bordeaux, are registering a significant decline and not only as regards exports, but also for domestic consumption. The French – this is what the latest estimates seem to suggest – are strongly decreasing the per capita consumption of wine – in particular, the red one – with effects which seem to be significant for the entire wine industry. At the same time, the interest of the French for beer is growing, with consumption clearly increasing to the detriment of wine.

 Over the last few decades, the consumption of red wine in France has undergone a drastic drop, going from 120 liters per year in the 1940s to around 40 today. Estimates suggest a further decline for the next few years, forecasting an annual per capita consumption of red wine of just 25 liters. This time it is not because of the infamous effects of the recent Covid-19 pandemic, indeed to the new fads and social trends which favor a greater consumption of white and rosé wines. A decline that has brought its greatest effect, of course, in the territories historically and traditionally committed to the cultivation of red berried varieties, such as Bordeaux, of course. Estimates indicate a drop in the consumption of red wines of -32%, with a consequent economic loss of -6.2% due to lower sales. By way of comparison, the drop in sales volume that is affecting the sparkling wine production in France is just -0.5%. A decidedly significant difference.

 A loss which is having a considerable economic impact on the profits of Bordeaux wineries, so much so that it is starting a real crisis in the sector. For this reason, at the beginning of the year, the vintners of Bordeaux asked for the intervention of the French government in order to get an economic compensation deriving from the loss and which, it seems, are going to happen for the imminent future as well. Furthermore, the vintners have requested to uproot part of the vineyards, an unfortunate and disgraceful operation which not only deprives the environment of the beauty of its vineyards, but also the inevitable loss of profits. After all, if the wine from those vineyards cannot be sold, the only thing left to do is, so to speak, act accordingly and limit future losses. It is a known fact that maintaining and cultivating a vineyard, harvesting its grapes and transforming them into wine has a cost that is not exactly trivial in the budget of any winery. The estimates and requests suggest a frightening quota of 15,000 hectares of excess vineyards, therefore to be uprooted, equal to about 10% of the total area destined for the cultivation of vineyards in the whole territory of Bordeaux.

 Unfortunately, this is not the only problem afflicting the Bordeaux wine industry. If the uprooting of vineyards limits the future production, there is still the problem of the destination or use of the red wine currently produced and which will probably remain unsold. Due to this specific condition, the French government has approved the distillation of the excess quotas for 2023, foreseeing a cost of approximately 160 million euros for the operation. In this regard, it should be noted France had already adopted a similar measure in recent times and, precisely, in 2020. On that occasion, because of the drastic drop in consumption resulting from the effect of the Covid-19 pandemic, the French government had approved the distillation of excess wine. Unfortunately, the torments of the Bordeaux vintners do not end there. Indeed, the vineyards of the iconic French wine-growing area are suffering the effects of flavescence dorée, a disease endemic in Europe and with a high spreading capacity.

 The French government, accepting the requests of the Bordeaux winegrowers – also to limit the harmful effects of flavescence dorée – has approved the uprooting of 9,500 hectares of vineyards and allocated 57 million euros for compensation, destined to the winegrowers who will join the campaign. The possibility of uprooting is granted – upon request – to the owners and managers of vineyards in the Gironde area, recognizing them a compensation of € 6,000 for each hectare. Those who adhere to the possibility of uprooting vineyards need to prove that the vines (therefore, not the vineyard) have been in production in the last 5 years and until 2022. Furthermore, it will be necessary to declare the purpose of the uprooting and the future destination of the area where the vineyard is located. Vintners seems to be pushing for a quick and decisive procedure, as they are convinced that the faster it will be done, the better it will be for everyone. The idea of uprooting is certainly dramatic and painful, however it is the premise for limiting future losses, in particular by considering the progressive decline in the consumption of red wine and the possible spreading of flavescence dorée.

 As for the drop in domestic consumption and related to red wines, according to a survey carried out in 2022, the causes would be to be found in the new social trends and habits of the French, a condition that could also extend to the rest of Europe. According to the results of this survey, the drop in the consumption of red wines is due to the concomitant reduction in the consumption of red meat, food for which – notoriously – red wine is preferably paired. Other causes would be to be found in the current preferences of consumers in preferring wines with a lower alcohol volume and, more specifically, wines suitable for aperitifs, such as whites and sparkling wines, which generally have a lower alcohol volume. According to the same survey, another factor which has determined the drop in the consumption of red wines is linked to the decreasing tendency of families to consume meals together in addition to the growing number of single-parent families, in which the only adult chooses not to uncork a bottle of wine – especially, red and robust – to accompany the meal.

 As for the Bordeaux vineyard uprooting campaign, the operation should begin next October and will literally see almost 10% of the vineyards in the area disappear. In this regard, it must be said the majority of these vineyards belong to small and medium-sized wineries, that is the category that has most suffered the severe consequences of the drop in consumption and exports. In fact, to face these losses, small producers were forced to sell off their wine at very low prices, generating a huge loss. A condition that – it must be said – does not concern the big and famous Châteaus of Bordeaux, for which the crisis has not had significant effects, so much so that many of them continue to expand their lands and buy new vineyards. A two-faced crisis, therefore, in which – as always and everywhere it happens – it is the smallest who suffer the worst consequences, with the real risk of disappearing, overwhelmed by higher costs and fewer market opportunities. Maybe it is simply the effect of a passing fad – like the so many we have witnessed in recent decades – with the fluctuating preferences of consumers who, cyclically, prefer a certain style of wine while penalizing the others. Fads have an easy hold on the community: today red wines – also from Bordeaux – have few reasons to smile, while whites, rosés and sparkling wines have good reasons to celebrate. At least until the glasses will return, surely and sooner or later, to turn red again.

 From red berried grapes can be produced not only red wines. With these grapes – as it is well known – can also be produced rosé wines, making use of specific wine making techniques and which, of course, are not used for the production of red wines. In this regard – should there be the need to clarify this aspect – in accordance with the laws in force, the production of rosé wines from the blending of whites and reds is not permitted, except for base wines to be used for the production of rosé sparkling wines. In this specific case, it must however be noted that a rosé sparkling wine is not always the result of the blending of white and red wines, as it is possible to produce it also by starting from a rosé wine, that is exclusively produced with red berried grapes. The enological factor discriminating between a rosé and red wine is notoriously represented by the maceration time of the must with the skins, in which the coloring power of the red berried grapes is contained.

 It is about decidedly short maceration times, which can vary from a very few hours, rarely beyond twenty. The longer the maceration time, the greater the quantity of coloring substances released from the skins into the must, therefore the more intense the color which will progressively tend from pale pink to red. Finally, it should be noted the production of rosé wines also includes the technique of bleeding – or saignée, as the French say – which consists in taking a fraction of the must in preliminary maceration with skins and intended for the production of a red wine. What is obtained is, in fact, a rosé must which, at the end of fermentation, will become wine. The enological scenario of Italy offers a wide selection of rose wines, a style of wine which in recent years has been attracting good interest from consumers. There are in fact many wine territories in Italy which include rose wines in their production disciplinaries, exactly like the ones we are examining for our tasting by contrast. We will in fact pour into our glasses two rosés belonging to important and renowned denominations: Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato and Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore.

 When it is about Sardinian wines, one of the first grapes which is most easily associated to the region undeniably is Cannonau. This magnificent variety is widespread throughout the Sardinian territory, and it certainly is the most famous and celebrated one for the island's reds. The wines produced with this grape – in fact –- are recognized by the Italian quality system as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata Cannonau di Sardegna (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC). The disciplinary provides for the production of wines in different styles, among these, also rosé, that is the wine we will examine in the tasting by contrast of this month. A style which in recent years has been attracting good interest from producers and, last but not least, from consumers, also due to the greater market demand for this specific style of wine. The production disciplinary of Cannonau di Sardegna, also for the rosé style, provides for the minimum use of 85% of the variety of the same name, while any complementary part can be composed of non-aromatic red berried grapes allowed for cultivation in Sardinia.

 It is a well known fact Cannonau corresponds to Grenache Noir, or rather, to the Garnacha known in Spain. This variety, in addition to Sardinia, Spain and France, is also found in other wine areas of the world, including various regions of Italy. This analogy has long led to the supposition of the Spanish origin of Cannonau, supporting the hypothesis that it had been introduced to the island in 1400s by the Spaniards. This hypothesis has been denied by some archaeological discoveries conducted in Sardinia, which have allowed the discovery of Cannonau seeds dating back to 3200 years ago. This extraordinary discovery has therefore made it possible to identify Cannonau as a native variety of Sardinia, thus suggesting the reverse journey, that is introduced in Spain and France from this island. This proves, not least, the very long bond of the ancient peoples of Sardinia with viticulture and enology, evidently consolidated and perpetuated up to the present day.

 The enology of Abruzzo is firmly linked to two varieties: Trebbiano d'Abruzzo for the whites, Montepulciano for the reds and, of course, rosés. In fact, when one thinks of the wines of this region, the association with these two grapes and related wines is practically inevitable. Both varieties are the basis of the main and historical Denominazione d'Origine Controllata wines of the region: Trebbiano d'Abruzzo and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. To these we must add Cerasuolo which, until a few years ago, was in fact included in the production disciplinary of the great red wine of the region, whereas today it is properly recognized with its own denomination. At the basis of this historic rosé wine from Abruzzo, we find the Montepulciano variety, which must be present – according to the production disciplinary – for a minimum of 85%. The remaining part, as often happens for almost all Italian DOC wines, is possibly made up of non-aromatic red berried grapes and permitted for cultivation in the region.

 The production disciplinary of this wine also provides for the superiore style – and this is what we examine in our tasting – which is characterized by the higher alcohol content and the possibility of aging in wooden containers. Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo certainly is among the most famous rosé wines of Italy and has a long tradition, without a shadow of a doubt among the most versatile rosés in food and wine pairing. Thanks to the Montepulciano grape, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo can express singular and different characters, from light and immediate wines, to structured and robust interpretations. To this must also be added the possibility of aging in wood for the “superiore” style which, when used, gives Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo organoleptic power and complexity. In this regard, it should be noted the aging of this wine in wood is pretty rare and the majority of producers prefer the use of inert containers, in order to better enhance the crispness and immediacy of the wine.

The color of Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore

 Let's proceed with getting the two bottles we will pour into the glasses for our tasting by contrast. At this time, it is about two wines which are very common, therefore it will not be difficult to find them in any good wine shop. For both wines, we need to be careful in choosing bottles which have been produced with the respective varietals alone. This aspect is very important as the production disciplinary of Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato and Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore allow the use of at least 85% of the primary variety. As far as wine making practices are concerned, we will make sure the two wines have been fermented and aged in inert containers, preferably steel tanks. This allows, in fact, to better appreciate the qualities of the two grapes and, in particular, the crispness of the rosés. The two wines belong to the most recent vintage and are poured into their respective glasses at a temperature of 12 °C. (54 °F)

 The first sensorial characteristic we will examine is appearance, therefore how wines are seen by our eyes in terms of color and transparency. Let's start by observing the glass of Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato and – by tilting the glass over a white surface – let's pay attention to the base, where the thickness of the wine is greatest. It can be observed a cherry pink color of medium intensity and transparency – evaluated by placing an object in contrast between the white surface and the glass – is decidedly high. Let's now proceed with the evaluation of nuances, therefore let's pay attention to the opening of the glass, where the wine becomes thin. The nuance of Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato confirms its base color. Let's move on to the evaluation of the appearance of Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore, starting from color and transparency. By observing the wine at the base of the glass, we notice a decidedly intense cherry pink color, generally much more than the Sardinian wine, with a high transparency, however lower than that of the previous wine. The nuance of Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore confirms the base color.

 The olfactory profiles of Cannonau and Montepulciano are extremely different, not only when comparing their interpretations of red wines. These differences are also evident in rosé vinifications, for which the maceration time with the skins becomes a further discriminating factor. In this regard, it should however be noted the olfactory differences between Cannonau and Montepulciano are decidedly more evident and distant especially in red wines, whereas in rosé ones they become more subtle and less varied. In both cases, in their interpretations in rosé, are mainly perceived aromas of flowers with pink or red petals – such as cyclamen and rose – however in those produced with Montepulciano it is not uncommon to perceive violet as well. The world of fruits of Cannonau and Montepulciano vinified in rosé is strongly characterized by red pulp fruits, often also dark, which are sometimes combined with peach and pleasing hints of citrus fruits, in particular tangerine.

 Let's continue this month's tasting by contrast and proceed with the analysis of the olfactory profiles of Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato and Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore, starting – as in the previous phase – from the Sardinian wine. Let's hold the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, do the first smell in order to appreciate the opening of the wine, that is the evaluation of its primary and identifying aromas. From the glass are perceived clean and pleasing notes of cyclamen followed by aromas of cherry, raspberry and strawberry. Let's now swirl the glass and proceed with the second smell, therefore evaluating the remaining aromas of the wine. From the glass we can now appreciate aromas of rose, blueberry, plum and hints of peach. Let's move on to the evaluation of the olfactory profile of Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore, therefore by holding the glass in vertical position, let's proceed with the analysis of the opening. The nose perceives intense and clean aromas of cyclamen followed by cherry, blueberry and raspberry. After having swirled the glass and carried out the second smell, the olfactory profile of the wine from Abruzzo is completed with dog rose and violet as well as fruit aromas in which we recognize blackberry, plum and pomegranate, often followed by tangerine. Finally, in this wine, it can sometimes be perceived aromas of almond.

 Let's now pass to the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the wines of our tasting by contrast and – as in the previous phases – let's start with the Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato. Let's therefore take a sip of this wine in order to evaluate its attack, that is the initial and identifying gustatory sensations. The first sensation we perceive in the mouth is the crispness given by acidity and which finds its balance in the effect of alcohol. It can also be perceived a slight sensation of astringency and a medium body structure. In the mouth are clearly perceived the flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry, therefore confirming a good correspondence to the nose. Let's move on to the evaluation of the attack of Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore, take a sip and focus on the sensations perceived in the mouth. The wine from Abruzzo can be appreciated for its pleasing crispness which is often combined with a good alcohol volume – useful for reaching balance – as well as the sensation of good structure, generally fuller than Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato. In this wine can also be appreciated a slight astringency, as well as flavors of cherry, raspberry and blueberry,therefore having a good correspondence to the nose.

 We have reached the end of this month's tasting by contrast, therefore let's proceed with the evaluation of the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular the taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato is persistent and in the mouth are still perceived both the pleasing crispness given by acidity and the pseudo-burning effect of alcohol, well supported by the good structure. We can also clearly perceive the flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry. The finish of Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore is certainly persistent and, also in this case, the crispness given by acidity is clearly perceived as well as the pseudo-burning sensation produced by the alcohol which, in the superiore style, plays a determinant role. The sensation of structure is decidedly well perceptible and generally fuller than Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato. In the mouth we also continue to perceive the flavors of cherry, raspberry and blueberry, frequently followed by blackberry. Before concluding the tasting, let's do a final analysis of the olfactory profiles, first the Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato and then the Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Superiore: the differences are still well distinct and evident.

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