Two stories so distant that it would seem impossible to compare them. On the one side we have a grape which is the result of research and commitment, the fruit of a decidedly successful crossing and which has conquered vineyards in almost all the wine-growing countries of the world, not least, the glasses of enthusiasts. On the other side, a variety of Greek origin which found a magnificent environment in Calabria, so much so that today it is considered autochthonous and used in most of the white wines of the region. This month we are comparing in our glasses two grapes of great personality and capable of making excellent wines in their respective denominations and territories. Our tasting by contrast will focus on the analysis of Alto Adige Müller Thurgau – produced with the famous crossing and today found in many wine-growing countries of the world – and Cirò Bianco, one of the many remarkable enological excellence of Calabria and produced with Greco Bianco grape.

 These are two wines and territories that are very distant from each other and not only for geographical reasons. The finesse and crispness of the wines of Alto Adige, result – last but not least – of its environmental and climatic conditions, is fundamental for varieties with marked aromatic qualities, very common and used in the region. Among these, we certainly have Müller Thurgau which in Alto Adige makes wines capable of developing the pleasing aromatic expression of the grape and crispness, without ever exceeding with structures which would give the wine a fuller body at the expense of elegance. Not least, Calabria is also characterized by white wines of finesse and crispness, however, because of the different climatic and environmental conditions – not least, the varieties typically found in this region – have a greater structure. The star variety of Cirò Bianco – one of the most famous denominations in Calabria, especially for the reds – is Greco Bianco, a grape of Greek origins and today considered indigenous to Calabria, not to be confused with the Greco grape, the famous white berried variety from Campania.

 Alto Adige is an extraordinary land of white and red wines, often characterized by elegant finesse and crispness. In this Italian region – close to the Alps – all those varieties which benefit from a cool climate for the development of their aromatic qualities and crispness, find magnificent expression. Among the white berried varieties which in Alto Adige are successful in fully expressing their character of finesse – both in the aromas and taste – we unquestionably find Müller Thurgau. The history of this grape is fascinating and amazing, the result of the commitment of its creator – it is in fact a crossbreed – including the confusion about its real origin and which only at the beginning of the 2000s was possible to definitively clarify thanks to specific genetic research on its DNA. This very interesting variety is the result of research by Prof. Hermann Müller towards the end of the 1800s – who at the time worked at the Geisenheim Grape Breeding Institute, Germany – and intended to create a variety of vine capable of combining the finesse and intensity of the Rhine Riesling with the capability of early ripening of the Sylvaner.

 The grape he obtained did not possess the qualities he wanted to create, however it turned out to have interesting enological potential, so as to become very popular in Germany. For the new grape, its creator chose the name of Müller Thurgau, thus combining his surname with that of Thurgau (Thurgovia), the Swiss canton in which he was born in 1850. Although Prof. Hermann Müller was convinced that he had used the Sylvaner, many doubted, putting forward the hypothesis that, in reality, the variety crossed with Rhine Riesling was actually another one. We will have to wait for the 2000s when the origin of this variety was finally and definitively clarified, thanks to research conducted on its DNA. It was therefore found out that Müller Thurgau is actually a cross between Rhine Riesling and Madeleine Royale. Specifically, it was discovered that it was this variety to be used to pollinate Rhine Riesling. Müller Thurgau, since the time of its creation, has enjoyed enormous success and, besides Germany – where it is quite common – it is also present in many wine-growing countries of the world. Müller Thurgau is also found in Italy, especially in Alto Adige.

 Calabria is a beautiful land of wine, and it is here that the Greek enological influence began, first in the area called Magna Graecia and then spread throughout most of Italy. The enological production of this region is mainly known for its red wines – in particular, for those produced with Gaglioppo, Magliocco, Nerello Cappuccio and Greco Nero grapes - however there are worthy representatives also in white wines. In this sense, the absolute protagonist of Calabria undeniably is Greco Bianco, a variety which, despite having clear Greek origins, is now considered to be indigenous of the region. In this regard, it should be noted that Greco Bianco cultivated in Calabria is a variety which has no genetic link with Greco, the famous white berried variety mainly found in Campania and known for the production of Greco di Tufo. The name of this Calabrian variety should in fact be better defined as Greco Bianco di Bianco or Greco di Bianco.

 The reference is not about the color (bianco is Italian for “white”) but to the town of the same name in the province of Reggio Calabria, where the precious sweet wine from dried grapes Greco di Bianco DOC is produced. This interesting variety is among the oldest in Italy, and it is believed it was introduced by Greek colonists around the 7th century BC, when they landed in the area of the promontory of Zefirio, near the town of Bianco. The variety is now widely spread and cultivated in Calabria and – in fact – it is the main white berried variety in the region, present in various Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) and, among these, Cirò. This important denomination of Calabria, certainly among the best known, mainly owes its fame to red wines, notoriously produced with Gaglioppo grape. The disciplinary also provides for the production of white wines, which are mainly produced with Greco Bianco grape. Despite other varieties are allowed, most of the white wines belonging to the Cirò denomination are produced with 100% Greco Bianco.

The color of Alto Adige Müller Thurgau

 The two wines we will pour into our glasses for this month's tasting are pretty easy to find. In fact, these are bottles produced in wine-growing territories that enjoy good popularity, in particular Alto Adige Müller Thurgau. Among the enological representatives of the Cirò appellation, as already mentioned, the most known and widespread ones are red wines, however also the other two styles of the denomination – white and rosé – catch the interest of wine lovers. As already mentioned in the past, in choosing our wines we need to make sure the bottles are produced with the respective grapes alone. In fact, it should be noticed that Alto Adige DOC production disciplinary allows the minimum use of 85% of the variety indicated on the label, with any remaining part made up of varieties allowed in the region. The same consideration is valid for Cirò Bianco as the relative disciplinary provides for the minimum use of Greco Bianco for 80%. For both wines we will make sure that they have been vinified in steel tanks and belonging to the most recent vintage. Alto Adige Müller Thurgau and Cirò Bianco are poured into tasting glasses at a temperature of 10 °C. (50 °F)

 We can now start our tasting by contrast and pour Alto Adige Müller Thurgau and Cirò Bianco into their respective tasting glasses. The first wine we will examine is the one from Alto Adige, therefore proceeding with the first phase of the evaluation, that is how the wine appears to our eyes. Let's hold the glass tilted over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the base, where the thickness of the wine is more consistent. Alto Adige Müller Thurgau shows a brilliant greenish yellow color, sometimes with straw yellow hues, and a very high transparency. Let's now pay attention to the opening of the glass, where the thickness of the wine becomes thin, and let's evaluate its nuances. The color that is detected is still bright greenish yellow. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the appearance of Cirò Bianco, also in this case by holding the glass tilted over the white surface. The color of the Calabrian wine – observed at the base – reveals brilliant and intense straw yellow, whereas the nuances, observed towards the opening of the glass, reveal greenish yellow.

 The olfactory profiles of Alto Adige Müller Thurgau and Cirò Bianco are very different from each other and the nose reveals significant differences. This is of course because of the varieties used for their production – respectively, Müller Thurgau and Greco Bianco – as well as the environmental and climatic conditions of Alto Adige and Calabria. In the first case it is high-altitude environment with cool and moderate temperatures, in the other case the climate is decidedly hotter and is influenced by the breezes from the Ionian Sea. The aromas of Müller Thurgau, especially when cultivated in cool areas such as Alto Adige, mainly recall white and yellow pulp fruit, as well as exotic ones, such as peach, apple, pineapple, pear, banana and apricot. As far as perfumes attributable to the world of flowers are concerned, Müller Thurgau mainly expresses broom, hawthorn, acacia and, sometimes, elder flower. The olfactory profile of Greco Bianco – therefore of Cirò Bianco – is characterized by fruit sensations in which we recognize apple, including green apple, pear, pineapple and peach, as well as a pleasing hint of almond. The flower world of Greco Bianco is mainly represented by hawthorn and broom.

 Let's continue our tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Alto Adige Müller Thurgau and Cirò Bianco, starting – as in the previous examination – from the Alto Adige wine. Let's hold the glass in vertical position and, without swirling, proceed with the first smell in order to perceive the opening of the wine, that is the primary and identifying olfactory sensations. From the glass are perceived intense and refined aromas of peach, pineapple and apple as well as floral sensations of acacia and broom. Let's now proceed with the swirling of the glass in order to favor the development of the remaining aromas which will complete the profile of the wine. Alto Adige Müller Thurgau now expresses aromas of pear, banana, apricot, lychee and gooseberry, as well as the scent of chamomile and, sometimes, elder flower. Furthermore, in this wine can be perceived sensations reminiscent of aromatic and vegetable herbs, such as sage, thyme and nettle. Let's now pass to the evaluation of the opening of Cirò Bianco, therefore – by holding the glass in vertical position – let's evaluate its opening. The wine produced with Greco Bianco opens with intense and refined aromas of apple, pear and peach, as well as the floral sensation of hawthorn. After having swirled the glass, the profile of Cirò Bianco is completed with pineapple, plum and broom, sometimes followed by the pleasing scent of almond.

 Let's move on to the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the two wines, starting, as in the previous phases, from Alto Adige Müller Thurgau. Let's therefore take a sip of this wine in order to evaluate its attack, that is the primary and identifying sensations. The South Tyrolean wine is appreciated in the mouth for its pleasing crispness given by acidity, with a moderate contribution of alcohol but clearly enough to reach balance. The structure of this wine is medium, with finesse and very pleasing elegance on the mouth which is also expressed by the flavors of peach, pineapple and apple, therefore a good correspondence to the nose. The gustatory profile of Cirò Bianco is quite different and, after the first sip, it reveals a fuller structure than Alto Adige Müller Thurgau, however expressing an evident crisp attack which promptly finds the balance thanks to the contribution of alcohol, usually of greater intensity than the South Tyrolean wine. In the mouth, moreover, we clearly perceive flavors of apple, pear and peach, also in this case, a good correspondence to the nose.

 We have reached the end of this month's tasting by contrast, therefore let's proceed with the evaluation of the final sensations Alto Adige Müller Thurgau and Cirò Bianco leave in the mouth after swallowing. Among the most important aspects which are evaluated in this last phase, there is the taste-olfactory persistence, notoriously one of the primary factors defining the quality of a wine. The finish of Alto Adige Müller Thurgau is persistent, leaving in the mouth its pleasing sensation of crispness and moderate body, as well as the intense flavors of peach, pineapple and apple. Also the finish of Cirò Bianco is persistent and – compared to the previous wine – will be perceived a sensation of fuller structure as well as the pleasing crispness given by acidity. In the mouth are also perceived flavors of apple, pear, peach and plum, often accompanied by a pleasing bitter sensation in which we recognize almond. Alto Adige Müller Thurgau and Cirò Bianco are pretty different and distant wines, in both cases expression of finesse and elegance, as well as excellent representatives of their respective regions.