Summer, unbearably hot, like all the last few years – or, perhaps, like all the
past years – temperatures have reached such high levels as to cool any
past summer record. Summer, no less, is also that critical season in which much
of the work and hopes of those who work in agriculture are realized, in a very
fragile meteorological balance capable of determining the outcome of the entire
working year. Punctually, in summer, the topic of climate change returns – in
truth, in recent times, it has been a topic all year round – trying to justify,
as much as possible, the incredible increase in summer temperatures compared to
the past. The sun, undoubtedly, is indispensable to the activity of any plant
organism, just as are other meteorological events, including humidity and the
availability of water, especially that which constitutes the very precious water
reserves of the subsoil.
At this time, grape harvesting in Italy, as well as in other wine-growing
countries in Europe, has already begun for over a month now and – according to
statements by winemakers and trade associations – will be remembered for being
among the earliest in recent years. According to estimates by Coldiretti – an
Italian association of farmers – the 2024 grape harvest began as early as two
weeks in advance, especially in southern Italy, because of the effects of high
temperatures and the lack of rain, factors that accelerated the ripening of the
grapes. The early start of the grape harvest in Italy is the result, of course,
of the meteorological and climatic trend of 2024, which began with decidedly
unusual temperatures and higher than the seasonal average. This favored the
resumption of the vegetative cycle of the vine and the consequent development,
anticipating the budding by about a week compared to what was recorded on average
in past years. This condition becomes decidedly critical in case the spring
weather conditions become adverse, in particular the sudden drop in temperature.
According to Coldiretti, the 2024 harvest in Italy will certainly be remembered
as the one with the greatest unknowns in recent years, since – in the general
picture of the country – the conditions are different in each region. It is not,
therefore, a matter of the very early start of the harvest, which will inevitably
go on for about four months, due to the huge biodiversity characterizing Italy,
including the different styles of wines produced. It must in fact be considered
that, in Italy, from North to South, wine production begins with sparkling wines
up to the sweet ones from dried grapes, passing through whites, reds, rosés and,
last but not least, late harvests. This means that the harvest operations begin
as soon as the grapes are ripe depending on the style and variety – the first
are always the sparkling wines – often until after November, when the dried
grapes are harvested for the production of sweet wines.
The weather conditions and the progress of the season have determined – this is
what Coldiretti said – a clear division between the Northern and Southern
regions. In the South of Italy, it is the drought that is causing the most
concern, despite – it seems – the vines, in general terms, have managed to face
the difficult condition, while the high temperatures have blocked the development
of downy mildew. It will be remembered, in this regard, that last year, this very
disease caused such extensive damage that it reduced wine production by as much
as 11 million hectoliters. In the South of Italy, a harvest of excellent quality
grapes is expected, trusting in the arrival of rain, which would ensure a further
increase in quality. The situation is very different in the North of Italy where
the fate of the vineyards has mainly depended on bad weather, with cloudbursts and
hailstorms, events that are certainly not positive in this period of the year and
in which the harvest takes place.
Lombardy – because of the weather – has already announced that the 2024 harvest
will probably be 15% lower than last year. In this region, in fact, there was
heavy rain, especially during spring and early summer. Added to this were
hailstorms, with the consequent development of fungal diseases that forced
vintners to intervene in the vineyards with appropriate phytosanitary treatments.
Despite these inconveniences, Lombardy is still expecting a quality grape
harvest, while maintaining a certain caution on the quantity, also in
consideration of the weather trend in September, which is currently
unpredictable. According to what was declared by the vintners themselves and
their trade associations, the management of the vineyard during 2024 has led to
an increase in costs due to the necessary treatments in the vineyard, which will
inevitably affect the final price of the wine.
The same consideration was also made by the vintners of southern Italy, who – so
they report - due to the drought conditions and the excessive increase in
temperatures, had to resort to appropriate preventive measures. Also in this
case, the costs incurred for the management of the vineyard will affect the final
price of the wine. As a result of these considerations, it therefore seems
inevitable, for the 2024 vintage wines, a final increase in the selling price to
the detriment – evidently – of consumers. Exactly as declared by the producers
of northern Italy, those of the south also affirm that the quality of the grapes
is excellent and high. In short, for the 2024 vintage we will have excellent
wines and most likely more expensive. Furthermore, everyone agrees that, due to
the unpredictable and unusual weather conditions of recent years, vine
cultivation forces vintners to face new challenges every year in Italy, with
rapid interventions in the vineyard and not always easy to manage or implement.
Apparently, Italy is not the only one complaining about the difficulties in the
vineyard. In France, again due to the climatic and meteorological conditions of
2024, a significant drop in wine production is expected, so much so that a loss
of as high as 16% is estimated compared to 2023 and -3% of the average harvest
of the last five years. These estimates suggest that, in France, wine production
for 2024 should be between 40 and 43 million hectoliters. These estimates – for
what it is worth – could hand over the primacy of wine production to Italy, lost
in 2023 to France. The situation is completely different in Spain, where an
increase of 20% is expected, with total production estimated at 39.7 million
hectoliters. The climatic and meteorological conditions of recent years are
undeniably forcing the wine world to face new and important challenges, forcing
vintners to think about and implement new strategies and cultivation techniques,
which are becoming more and more critical every year. If we also add to this the
widespread decline in per capita wine consumption, an uncertain future also looms
in terms of marketing. Let us take, however and in any case, the positive side of
the current forecasts which give us hope for a 2024 vintage of high and excellent
quality. This – for all of us who continue to love and appreciate wine – is
certainly the best news, with our glasses already ready to welcome the new wines
and how much the 2024 vintage will be able to give to our emotions and our
pleasure.
Antonello Biancalana
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