Verdicchio and Gewürztraminer are undeniably two magnificent grapes, capable of creating extraordinary wines and, no less, decidedly versatile and allowing the creation of many enological interpretations, all of considerable value. These two varieties, in fact, are widely appreciated for their dry white wines and, in the case of Gewürztraminer, can also be added the many interpretations that are created with this grape in various wine-producing countries of the world. If it is true, in fact, that Verdicchio is the undisputed glory of the Marche – in particular, of the areas of Castelli di Jesi and Matelica – Gewürztraminer enjoys greater diffusion and notoriety thanks also to the many wines that are produced with this grape both in Italy and in France, Germany and Austria, just to name the main European countries where this grape is present. With Verdicchio and Gewürztraminer, are also produced valuable and interesting sweet wines from dried grapes, the style we will examine in this month's tasting by contrast.

 The first substantial difference between Verdicchio and Gewürztraminer is their classification: although they are both white grapes, Gewürztraminer is an aromatic variety, a characteristic that clearly distinguishes its wines. In this regard, it should be noted that only those varieties which wines directly express, in their olfactory profile, a clear and distinct grape aroma, specifically, grape juice, are classified as aromatic. If it is true that the aroma of grapes, more precisely, dried grapes, can be perceived in many sweet wines from dried grapes, in those produced with the aromatic varieties, this quality is further accentuated and evident. For this reason, although wooden containers are also used, producers generally prefer to use inert ones in order to enhance the aroma and grape scents typical of these wines.

 Talking about white wines from the Marche, Verdicchio is inevitably the most recognized and appreciated. A fully deserved recognition and widely proven by its wines, the gigantic white grape of the Marche unequivocally distinguishes the wine-growing territories of the Castelli di Jesi and Matelica. It is thanks to Verdicchio, in fact, that in the past has been possible to successfully relaunch the winemaking of the Marche, a result now consolidated for decades and that, even today, is strongly supported by the wines produced with this grape. Not least, thanks also to the winemaking versatility of Verdicchio, a variety allowing the creation of different styles of wines, including sparkling wines, as well as sweet wines from dried grapes. Regardless of the style, Verdicchio always manages to stand out with its wines, not least, even those fermented or aged in casks.

 The primary denomination of the Marche region related to Verdicchio is undeniably that of Castelli di Jesi, a territory that extends from the Umbria-Marche Apennines to the coast of the Adriatic Sea, including towns in the provinces of Ancona and Macerata. Among the many styles provided by the production disciplinary of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC, there is also passito. All the wines of the denomination – in accordance with the disciplinary – are produced with Verdicchio for at least 85% and any remaining quota made up of white grape varieties permitted in the Marche region. In this regard, it should be noted that the producers of this denomination tend to use Verdicchio only, making the production of wines in which other varieties are also present rather unlikely and marginal. As for the passito, the grapes are left to dry before vinification, an operation that – in accordance with the production disciplinary – can last a maximum of until March 30 following the harvest. As for the aging of the wine, the producers choose both inert and wooden containers, including the barrique.

 Originating from Termeno, in Alto Adige, Gewürztraminer is certainly one of the most famous grapes in the world, undeniably one of the most popular varieties among wine lovers. Its name derives from the town of Termeno – Tramin, in German – which is preceded by gewürz, literally spicy. Gewürztraminer, therefore, translates as the spicy grape of Termeno. The term spicy refers to the aroma of its wines which, in some cases, directly recall, among others, ginger, nutmeg, white and black pepper, saffron, cloves and star anise. This particular aromatic quality is generally present in all styles of wine produced with Gewürztraminer, in addition to the very intense grape aroma, a quality that classifies this variety among the very few aromatic grapes. Another identifying characteristic of Gewürztraminer is the color of the grape skin, which tends to be pink and, with ripening, even reddish.

 In accordance with the Italian quality system, the entire territory of Alto Adige is classified as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) and – despite being common throughout the region – Gewürztraminer is mainly grown in the areas of Termeno, its land of origin, and Cortaccia. The most widely produced style in the denomination is the dry white table wine, also from late harvest, while the sweet style from dried grapes is decidedly less widespread, although it generally expresses high levels of quality. The production of this interesting style, in accordance with the disciplinary, requires the use of Gewürztraminer for a minimum of 85% with the possible remaining part made up of white grape varieties authorized in the region. In this regard, it should be said that producers tend to use this variety only and without the addition of other grapes. As regards the winemaking process, with the aim of enhancing and preserving the aromatic characteristics of Gewürztraminer, they tend to use exclusively inert containers, in particular steel tanks.

The color of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito

 Let's proceed by purchasing the two wines of our tasting by contrast and that we will pour into our glasses. These two wines, although not produced in the same quantity as the dry table styles, should be relatively easy to find, especially in well-stocked wine shops. In choosing the two bottles to pour into our glasses, we will make sure that they are produced with the respective varieties alone and without the addition of other grapes. This characteristic, as already mentioned, is in any case the most frequent one in almost all the bottles produced. As regards the winemaking process, we will make sure that both wines have been fermented and aged in inert containers, preferably the steel tank. As for the vintage, we will choose two bottles belonging to the latest harvests available on the market. The wines are poured into their respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 15 °C (59 °F).

 It is now the time to pour Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito and Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Passito into our glasses and begin this month's tasting by contrast, proceeding with the appearance examination, that is, how the wines are seen to the eye. The first wine we examine is Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito. Let's tilt the glass over a white surface – a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the base. The wine from the Marche region has an intense amber yellow color and, by placing an object in contrast between the glass and the white surface, we can detect good transparency. Let's now observe the wine towards the opening of the glass, where the thickness is thinner, and evaluate the nuance: the basic amber yellow color with hints of golden yellow is confirmed. Let's now move on to the examination of the Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Passito and, by keeping the glass tilted, let's observe the base, in which we can see a brilliant amber yellow color tending towards golden yellow. The nuance of the Alto Adige wine reveals a golden yellow hue.

 Verdicchio and Gewürztraminer, in addition to expressing profoundly different olfactory profiles, produce equally different wines. These organoleptic differences are especially evident in dry table wines, while in sweet wines from dried grapes, despite being characterized by evidently distant sensorial qualities, the differences may seem less evident, apart from the marked aromaticity of Gewürztraminer. From an olfactory point of view, the drying of the grapes tends to develop qualities that are generally perceived in all sweet wines from dried grapes, in particular the sensations of dried fruit and jams. The most evident differences are therefore dependent on the olfactory profiles of each variety and, in this sense, the aromatic ones enjoy a greater advantage as they can be more easily identified. In the specific case of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito and Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Passito, the most obvious difference will be expressed by the aromatic power of the second wine, not only the aromas attributable to the grape, but also in the quality of the fruit sensations, including tropical ones.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito and Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Passito, starting – as in the previous phase – with the wine from the Marche region. By keeping the glass in vertical position and, without swirling it, we proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of the wine. From the glass we can appreciate intense and pleasing aromas in which we recognize raisins, dried figs, dried apricots and the unmistakable scent of almond, a frequent characteristic in all wines produced with Verdicchio. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito is completed with honey, candied fruit, quince jam, peach jam and citrus peel, sometimes followed by saffron. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the opening of the Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Passito. From the glass can be perceived intense and pleasing aromas of grapes – fresh and dried – as well as dried apricot, also as jam, dried white rose and lychee. After swirling the glass, the olfactory profile of the Alto Adige wine is completed with honey, peach jam, candied fruit, date, lavender, saffron and ginger.

 Let's now move on to evaluating the taste profiles of the two wines of our tasting by contrast, starting with the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito. Let's take a sip of this wine in order to evaluate the attack, that is, the initial taste sensations. In the mouth we immediately perceive the clear sweetness of the wine combined with a pleasing roundness, a sensation which is further accentuated by the effect of the alcohol. The wine finds its balance thanks to the perception of acidity, an essential quality in these wines and without which, to the taste, they would be rather cloying. In the mouth we also perceive the flavors of raisins, dried figs, often dried apricots and almonds, therefore a good correspondence with the nose. Let's move on to evaluating the attack of the Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Passito, so let's take a sip of this wine and pay attention to what is perceived in the mouth. The wine is immediately appreciated for its marked sweetness and roundness, the latter generally more intense than Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito. Also in this case the balance is obtained thanks to the pleasing crispness of the acidity. In the mouth, moreover, we perceive the flavors of fresh and dried grapes, dried apricot, lychee and dried fig.

 We have reached the end of our tasting by contrast, therefore proceed with the evaluation of the final sensations that the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular the taste-olfactory tasting, a factor which is considered fundamental for the quality of a wine. The finish of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito is persistent, leaving in the mouth intense and pleasing flavors of raisins, dried figs, dried apricots and almonds, in addition to the pleasing sensations of sweetness and roundness, still well balanced by the sensation of crispness given by the acidity. The finish of Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Passito is equally persistent and in the mouth can be continued to clearly perceive the sensations of sweetness and roundness, generally more intense than the Verdicchio Passito, in addition to the crispness of the acidity, such as to keep the wine in perfect balance. The flavors of fresh and dried grapes, dried apricot, lychee, dried fig and a pleasing spicy sensation reminiscent of saffron and ginger can also be perceived in the mouth.