Multivarietal wines are produced by blending many grape varieties. Techniques
used for their production, we will see this later, are many and in any case
they aim to get the same result: creating a wine capable of expressing the
sensorial qualities of all the varieties making it. It is not about a practice
of wine making alchemy, indeed, it is a compensative technique in order to
express a better balance and sensorial complexity in a wine. We can think, for
example, of a red variety having an evident crisp and astringent
profile, such as Nebbiolo. By adding a variety having a strong round
character - such as Merlot - acidity and astringency of Nebbiolo will be
attenuated and smoothed according to the respective percentages making the
composition. It is not about correcting supposed faults in a variety, indeed it
is about creating a new wine having proper sensorial qualities.
It should be said production of multivarietal wines is very common all over the
world, a practice which can be defined as old as the wine itself. Many of the
famous wine areas of the world in fact make wines by blending different
varieties, therefore this practice is to be considered absolutely normal,
consolidated and common. Many of the great wine areas in the world make wines
of this type, such as Bordeaux, Valpolicella and Chianti, as to mention a very
short list. Multivarietal wines, for the sake of truth, cannot be considered
better than monovarietals. It would be a disputable assertion having no
practical and sensorial foundation. None of the two types can in fact be
considered better than the other: they are different wine making styles and
making different results in qualitative terms. In both cases, they can
give from modest and ordinary wines to endlessly great wines.
Before discussing the subject of multivarietal wine sensorial tasting, let's
try to understand how they are made. The main factor is represented by the
presence of two or more grape varieties, usually belonging to the same type -
white or red - although this is not an essential and fundamental requirement.
We can consider, for example, the traditional recipe of Chianti suggested
by baron Bettino Ricasoli in which Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca are
blended to Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero. A recipe which is rarely used
today by the producers of the famous Tuscan wine, although it represented for a
very long time an indisputable foundation in Chianti production. In most of the
cases it is however the blending of grapes belonging to the same type,
therefore white varieties for white wines, red grapes for red wines.
The blending of grapes in order to create a unique wine is substantially made
by using two distinct methods. The first technique provides for fermenting the
must of all grapes in the same container. Grapes, soon after harvesting, are
crushed together in order to get a unique must which will then be fermented.
The second technique provides for the production of wines from each variety,
the resulting wines are then assembled therefore obtaining a unique
wine. The second technique is more common than the first one as it allows - as
a matter of fact - a better control on the final result by adopting specific
procedures and techniques according to each variety. None of the two techniques
can be considered better than the other: it all depends on grape varieties used
and the type of wines to be produced.
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| In studying wine
tasting it is always important to take note about the organoleptic sensations
perceived from the glass |
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It should in fact be considered each variety get to full ripeness - and
therefore usable enologically speaking - in proper times, therefore the
technique of fermenting a unique must is used with grapes ripening in the very
same period. In case of varieties ripening in different times, blending wines
is the preferred method in order to favor the expression of each grape, while
respecting biological and wine making needs for each one of them. This
consideration is particularly important for red berried grapes, for which it is
not considered technological ripeness only - that is the one essentially
determined by the quantity of sugar - bust also and in particular for
polyphenolic ripeness. For this reason, it is preferred to blend wines in order
to let grapes reach their full ripeness - both technological and polyphenolic -
in order to get from each of them a qualitatively significant wine.
The assembling of each wine is done according to the type of result to be
obtained. In certain cases, each wine is blended soon after the fermentation
and preliminary stabilization, after that, the whole mass undergoes aging.
In other cases, it is preferred to age each wine separately - according to wine
making characteristics of each grape - and then to assemble them in order to
get a unique wine. This latter case is used when you need to age each wine by
using specific techniques or container for each of them. For some grapes it can
in fact be decided to age them in steel tanks, whereas for others it can be
decided to age them in barrique or cask. This technique favors the keeping of
sensorial qualities in those varieties which are not exactly suited for the
fermentation or aging in wood and the use of inert container is certainly more
beneficial.
The study of multivarietal wines certainly is more difficult for the taster
than monovarietal ones, as what he or she will be pouring in the glass is the
result of the expression of each variety. This means the taster needs to know
the characteristics of each grape in order to spot and recognize them in the
overall organoleptic profile of the wine. In a sense, it is like trying to
recognize someone in a crowd and in which are also found other persons which
are eventually known. Of the three phases of sensorial analysis - sight, smell
and taste - appearance generally offers a lower number of clues than the other
two phases, as color is sometimes deceiving in regard of each variety. It
should also be considered wine making techniques could also make things harder
for appearance analysis, as the maceration and aging can affect this aspect,
even significantly.
For this reason, before studying multivarietal wines it is better to focus on
monovarietal ones and their different wine making and territorial expressions.
The tasting of multivarietal wines follows, in general terms, the same
consideration we used so many times in our pages: you cannot recognize
something in case you do not know it. For this reason, the study of
multivarietal wines follows the study of monovarietal ones in order to get the
needed experience and skill in recognizing grape varieties. A good method
consists in studying both types at the same time and by using the comparison
technique. In this case it should be noticed that, in any case, it is
fundamental the knowledge of each variety as we will need the skill of
recognizing them in a context made from many grapes. The difficulty of the
exercise is of course increased in function of the number of grapes making the
multivarietal wine.
Let's try to follow this method of study, by starting from white wines and, in
particular, the ones produced with aromatic grapes, easier to recognize. In
this exercise we will focus on Gewürztraminer grape - famous aromatic variety
- which is also blended to other grapes in order to enhance the aromatic
profile in a wine. Let's get two wines: one produced with 100%
Gewürztraminer, the other one produced with many varieties of which one of
them is our aromatic grape. In order to simplify the searching of wines having
these characteristics, we can certainly get wines produced in the large
North-Eastern part of Italy, an area in which Gewürztraminer is frequently
used alone as well as blended to other varieties. It will be better to get
wines vinified in inert containers in order to make both the study and tasting
easier.
To keep simplifying the study, it is better to choose a multivarietal wine made
from three grapes and, of them, it is essential Gewürztraminer is the only
aromatic grape of the composition. Let's pour the wines in distinct glasses, by
paying attention they will be served at the same temperature. Let's start by
evaluating aromas of the wine made with Gewürztraminer only while paying
attention to its strong aromatic character of grape. Let's now pass to the
second wine, and try to recognize the very same grape aromas in its aromatic
profile which will probably be more complex. The difficulty in recognizing
Gewürztraminer in the second wine is directly proportional to the aromatic
qualities of the other grapes. For this reason, in order to simplify the study,
the other grapes, despite they however have proper aromatic characteristics,
must not belong to the category of aromatic varieties.
Gewürztraminer, of course, is not just grape smell. Its olfactory
profile is more complex than that, therefore we will continue our study by
trying to spot the other nuances of its aromas in the multivarietal
wine. From a gustatory point of view, this interesting aromatic grape is pretty
recognizable, not only for its pleasing grape flavor, but also for the
roundness distinguishing the wines in which it is found. In this case, it
should be noticed Gewürztraminer roundness must not be confused with
the sensation of sweetness, a quality sometimes deceiving the superficial
taster. As we improve our skill, we can proceed with another multivarietal wine
and made from a higher number of grapes, including Gewürztraminer. The
intensity of this grape will change according to its percentage in the
composition and, something not to be taken lightly, according to the production
area and wine making characteristics of wine.
Te same method can of course be used for the study of multivarietal red wines.
Despite there is only one aromatic red variety - Brachetto - this is rarely
used for the making of multivarietal wines. We can however proceed with the
study by considering very different varieties, such as Sangiovese and Merlot, a
pretty common combination in Central Italy. The two grapes have very different
characteristics in every sensorial aspect, in particular taste: Sangiovese is
crisp and lively, Merlot is more robust and rounder. Also in this case it is
better to choose, in the beginning, wines produced in inert containers and then
proceed with wines aged and fermented in cask or barrique. The same method of
comparative study can be of course applied to every wine style, as the
production of multivarietal wines is very common, including in sweet and
sparkling wines.
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