When we talk about red wine in the eastern part of Emilia-Romagna, Italy, it is practically impossible not to have a Sangiovese in the glass. This grape, in fact, has a very strong bond with this territory and in which it has been cultivated since time immemorial. Imagining to move to Sicily and, in particular, to Vittoria – in the province of Ragusa – wanting to talk about wine, the most obvious association is certainly Cerasuolo di Vittoria, however, speaking of grapes, they would be Nero d'Avola and Frappato. These are two very different territories, with equally diverse histories and wine cultures, not least with decidedly distant environmental and climatic conditions. Even the two grapes that we are going to examine in the tasting by contrast are, in fact, different and distant, as can be easily found out from the sensorial evaluation of the respective wines. Both grapes share an uncertain origin, and – over time – various assumptions have been made which, even today, are not fully confirmed.

 Emilia-Romagna and Sicily are regions having a large surface area reserved to agricultural activities, including viticulture. In the vineyards of these two regions we find a rich variety of grapes, both native and non-native of French origin. This diversity, no less, has also led to the definition of many areas with Denominazione d'Origine (Denomination of Origin) – in both regions there are more than twenty – in which wines are produced with both native grapes and so-called “international”. This month we will compare two wines produced in the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) territories of Sicily and Emilia-Romagna, produced with grapes which – undoubtedly – are among the most significant and representative ones in their respective regions. We will in fact compare the Frappato produced in Vittoria and the Sangiovese of Romagna, grapes and territories capable of giving their respective wines character and personality, with distinct and different sensorial and enological qualities, perfect for the goal of our tasting by contrast.

 Vittoria – in the province of Ragusa, in the southern part of Sicily – is the only wine-growing area in the region to have a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita rank (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin, DOCG) attributed to Cerasuolo di Vittoria wine. This important Sicilian red wine is mainly produced with Nero d'Avola grape and the remaining part of Frappato, the variety that we will examine in this month's tasting. In the same territory – which covers the territories belonging to the provinces of Ragusa, Caltanissetta and Catania – the territory of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata Vittoria is also defined, in which is allowed the production of white and red wines, including mono-varietal ones. This is the case of the wine that we are going to evaluate in this month's tasting – Vittoria Frappato – for which, the relative production disciplinary, just like the majority of the Italian “mono-varietal” DOC wines, is produced with at least 85% of this variety.

 Frappato is a grape of important enological and sensorial interest, capable of giving personality and identity to its wines. Of very ancient origins and, although it is considered an indigenous variety of Sicily, more precisely of Vittoria, it is actually believed to originate from the Iberian peninsula. Frappato, in Sicily, however has a rather limited diffusion, mainly in the provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa, particularly in the territory of Vittoria. The character of the wines produced with Frappato mainly express fruity aromas, in particular red pulp fruits, of pleasing finesse and elegance, often characterized by the spicy scent of black pepper. In order to favor the fresh and fruity expression of Frappato, producers generally tend to vinify it in inert containers, whereas when it is blended to other varieties – as in the case of Nero d'Avola for the production of Cerasuolo di Vittoria wine – the aging in wood is more frequent.

 When red wines of Romagna – the eastern part of the region – are concerned, the primary reference is unquestionably Sangiovese. This famous red grape variety, among the most cultivated and widespread in Italy, especially in the Center, clearly and decisively identifies this land too and since a very long time. It is no coincidence, in fact, that among the many theories and legends linked to the origin of the Sangiovese grape, one leads back to Romagna and, in particular, to the town of Santarcangelo, more precisely, to the nearby Mount Giove or Colli Jovis and from which, as the legend goes on, it takes its name. Today, thanks to specific genetic research conducted on this grape, it is believed that Sangiovese actually derives from some varieties of southern Italy and that, for a long time, it has found in the Tuscany-Romagna Apennines its ideal and identifying territory. In fact, it was in this area that it will take its name: on the Tuscan side it becomes known as Sangioveto, while in Romagna it is known as uva sanzuvesa, more properly, Sangiovese.

 Sangiovese in Romagna is a grape of primary enological importance, with a long and consolidated history, so much so that it was among the first ones to obtain, in this land, the rank of Denominazione d'Origine Controllata. In 1967, in fact, Sangiovese di Romagna DOC was established, a name by which it will be known and appreciated until 2011, when the denomination becomes part of the more “generic” Romagna DOC. Specifically, Romagna Sangiovese can be produced in certain territories of the provinces of Forlì-Cesena, Ravenna, Rimini and Bologna. With the aim of better identifying the expressions of Sangiovese in this vast territory – as well as other varieties – the Romagna denomination also includes the following sub-areas: Bertinoro, Brisighella, Castrocaro and Terra del Sole, Cesena, Longiano, Marzeno, Meldola, Modigliana, Oriolo, Predappio, San Vicinio and Serra. Romagna Sangiovese, of which the “riserva” style is also produced, is usually vinified in wood casks, a technique that is more widely used than the use of inert containers, such as steel tanks.

The color of Romagna Sangiovese

 Our tasting by contrast will focus on the study of the specific qualities of Vittoria Frappato and Romagna Sangiovese, therefore, when choosing the bottles of wines that we will pour into the glasses, we need to pay attention to their production methods. Specifically, we will get wines exclusively produced with fermentation and aging in inert containers, preferably the steel tank. As usually happens with Italian Denominazione d'Origine Controllata wines requiring the indication of the variety in the label, we will pay attention to the composition as both Vittoria Frappato and Romagna Sangiovese allow the use of a part made of other grapes in addition to primary one. As the main purpose of our tasting by contrast is to understand and detect the specific differences of Frappato and Sangiovese, the respective bottles belong to the most recent harvest. The two wines are poured into tasting glasses at a temperature of 17° C. (63 °F)

 We can now pour the two wines into their glasses and begin this month's tasting by contrast, starting with Vittoria Frappato. By tilting the glass over a white surface and – by observing the base – we evaluate the color. The Sicilian wine presents itself to the eye with a brilliant ruby red color and, by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface, a moderate transparency is revealed. Let's now observe the wine towards the opening of the glass, where the thickness becomes thinner, therefore evaluating the nuance. Also in this case a brilliant ruby red color is observed. Let's now move on to the evaluation of Romagna Sangiovese, therefore, tilting the glass over the white surface, and evaluate the color by observing the wine at the base. We can see a brilliant ruby red color, with a moderate transparency, generally lower than that of Vittoria Frappato. We then observe the nuances of the wine – towards the opening of the glass – in which the ruby red base color is confirmed.

 The olfactory profiles of Vittoria Frappato and Romagna Sangiovese, when vinified in inert containers, are appreciated for the pleasing aromas of red and black pulp fruits, as well as flowers. The profiles, although sharing common scents, develop and express completely different qualities and intensities. Furthermore, Frappato can develop a certain spicy profile – completely absent in wines produced with Sangiovese – and in which black pepper can be recognized. The wines produced with Frappato, in particular those of Vittoria DOC, can be recognized to the nose for their aromas of cherry, strawberry and raspberry, as well as the pleasing floral sensation reminiscent of rose and cyclamen. As already mentioned, in wines produced with this grape, it can be very often perceived a spicy character directly reminiscent of black pepper. The wines produced with Sangiovese, in this case, those of the Romagna denomination, are appreciated for the pleasing aromas of black cherry, plum, raspberry and blueberry, whereas for the aromas belonging to the world of flowers, the main perceptions are violet, rose and the geranium.

 Let's resume the tasting of our wines, proceeding with the evaluation of their respective olfactory profiles. The first wine we examine – as in the first phase – is Vittoria Frappato. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening of the Sicilian wine. From the glass we can perceive clear and intense aromas of cherry, strawberry and raspberry followed by the unmistakable floral scent of rose. Let's now swirl the glass, so as to favor the development of the other aromas, and proceed with the second smell. The profile of this wine is completed with blueberry and blackberry, as well as the aromas of cyclamen and, frequently, black pepper. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the olfactory profile of Romagna Sangiovese and proceed to the analysis of its opening. From the glass we perceive, clear and intense, the aromas of black cherry, plum and violet, three sensations that very often distinguish wines produced with Sangiovese. After having swirled the glass and carried out the second smell, the profile of the wine is completed with blueberry, raspberry, strawberry and the floral scent of rose.

 Let's now move on to the evaluation of the gustatory profiles of the two wines of our tasting by contrast, starting – as in the previous phases – from Vittoria Frappato. Let's proceed with the evaluation of its attack, that is, the identifying and primary sensations that are perceived in the mouth at the first sip. The wine is characterized by a moderate astringency, well supported by the pleasing crispness given by the acidity, both balanced by the effect of the alcohol and the pleasing roundness. The body of Vittoria Frappato is good, however it is the crispness to mainly characterize the wine. Let's now examine the taste profile of Romagna Sangiovese, therefore take the first sip in order to evaluate its attack. The first sensation we perceive in the mouth is the moderate astringency – generally more intense than Frappato – which immediately finds balance thanks to the effect of alcohol. In addition to the good body, a pleasing crispness is also perceived in the mouth, a quality that is often evident in Sangiovese when it is vinified in inert containers.

 Let's proceed with the last phase of this month's tasting, therefore evaluate the final sensations the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing, in particular, the so-called taste-olfactory persistence. The finish of Vittoria Frappato is persistent and in the mouth we can continue to clearly perceive the flavors of cherry, strawberry and raspberry, in addition to the moderate astringency combining with the crispness of the wine. The finish of Romagna Sangiovese is also persistent, leaving in the mouth the sensation of moderate astringency – generally more accentuated than Frappato – in addition to the good body and the typical sensation of crispness. In the mouth we can continue to perceive the flavors of black cherry, plum and blueberry, often raspberry as well. Now compare the difference in the effect of astringency and crispness the two wines leave in the mouth in the final phase. Finally, by placing the glasses close together, we carry out the final smell – first Vittoria Frappato and then Romagna Sangiovese – which further allows us to perceive and understand the differences in the respective olfactory profiles.