In the scenario of wine production, sweet wines from dried grapes represent a decidedly marginal share. The majority of them are produced with white grapes and the red ones represent a decidedly small percentage. Perhaps it is also for this reason that sweet red wines made from dried grapes are generally considered special, undoubtedly “rare”. In fact, if we consider the Italian denominations of origin, the number of sweet red wines made from dried grapes represents a decidedly minimal share. If it is true that producing a quality sweet wine from dried grapes is certainly difficult, the production of red ones is undoubtedly even more difficult. The main cause is due to the presence of a component that is decidedly troublesome to manage together with sugar: tannins and, therefore, the consequent astringency in sensorial terms. However, when the magic of this union occurs, the result is absolutely interesting and valuable.

 Because of their specific and particular characteristics, the sensorial tasting of sweet red wines from dried grapes represents an interesting opportunity of study for the taster. These wines, in fact, when compared to sweet whites from dried grapes, build their balance through factors and sensations exclusive to the style, sharing only the sweet taste and roundness, the latter given by alcohol and aging. This means, not least, that during the sensorial tasting of sweet red wines from dried grapes, it is essential to evaluate the contribution of astringency in relation to the general balance of the wine. This sensorial stimulus, in fact, requires the right “contrast” of sweetness, roundness and alcohol. To understand this particular sensorial condition, this month we will pour into our glasses two important sweet red wines from dried grapes, Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito. These two wines, in fact, despite belonging to the same style, are characterized by the enormous difference perceived in the mouth by the respective intensities of astringency.

 The history of Recioto della Valpolicella is inextricably linked to that of Amarone. The famous red from the province of Verona is in fact son of Recioto, a wine which – in fact – has a much longer history. It is no coincidence that, in Valpolicella, Amarone is traditionally defined as a Recioto scapà, that is “a run away Recioto”, in the sense that the fermentation of the sugars has gone too far so as to make the wine dry and bitter, that is, no longer sweet. The powerful structure of the wine and the absence of sweetness, then, earned it the name by which it is known throughout the world: Amarone, literally “big bitter”. Even the name recioto has an evocative origin, since – so tradition has it – it is produced with the recie (dialect for “ears”) of the bunches, that is the upper and lateral parts, those more exposed to sunlight, therefore richer in sugars. The grapes are then dried on racks, in special rooms, therefore crushed and fermented.

 Recioto della Valpolicella is recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin, DOCG), the highest level provided by the Italian quality system. From a historical point of view, it is believed that Recioto della Valpolicella is the direct descendant of the legendary acinatico, praised in 500 AD by Cassiodorus, who described it as “royal in color…dense and fleshy… drinkable purple of incredible sweetness… pure wine with a regal color and a special flavor, so that you think either that the purple is dyed by the wine itself or that its clear humor is expressed by the purple”. Furthermore, Cassiodorus also described the production technique, a process not dissimilar to the one currently used for Recioto della Valpolicella. The main grapes composing it are the same ones used for the production of the red wines of this territory: Corvina and Corvinone – present from 45 to 95% – Rondinella – from 5% to 30% – and possibly other grapes allowed in the territory.

 Contrary to Amarone and Recioto, the enological history of “dry” and passito Montefalco Sagrantino follow two different paths, having in common only the grape with which they are produced. Montefalco Sagrantino Passito, in fact, is a wine having a long and significant history, while the dry table style saw its birth only a few decades ago as a consequence of completely distinct viticultural and wine making practices. The “dry” Montefalco Sagrantino, in fact, is produced with ripe grapes allowed to ferment immediately after the harvest, while the passito style is produced with grapes allowed to dry on racks, then crushed and fermented. The history and enological roots of Montefalco can therefore be found both in its extraordinary grape as well as in its sweet wine made from dried grapes. The “dry” style, however, represents the recent and modern history of Montefalco enology, well supported – without a shadow of a doubt – by the historic “raisin” style, a unique wine of its kind and, certainly, modern and alive.

 Montefalco Sagrantino – both dry and passito – is recognized by the Italian quality system as Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin, DOCG) and is produced exclusively with Sagrantino grapes. Regardless of the style, Montefalco Sagrantino is characterized by the powerful structure and astringency of the tannins, which are decidedly accentuated. In this regard, it must in fact be noted that Sagrantino is the wine grape with the highest content of polyphenols, a characteristic which is found directly in its wines as well as being a distinctive quality. This aspect is present – not least – even in the passito style, a quality that can sometimes disorientate the tasting right because of the unusual presence of the notable astringency combined with sweetness. This characteristic generally finds the right balance thanks not only to the marked sweetness, but also to the effect of alcohol and the roundness given from barrel aging. Montefalco Sagrantino Passito is therefore a wine of enormous personality, certainly unique in the wine scene in an absolute sense.

The Color of Montefalco Sagrantino Passito

 The wines we pour into the glasses of this month's tasting by contrast are not so difficult to find. In fact, both Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito are wines well present on the shelves of wine shops, certainly in the most well-stocked ones. As regards Recioto della Valpolicella, we will choose a bottle produced with Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella. Furthermore, we will make sure the aging of the wine has been carried out in large barrels. Also for the choice of Montefalco Sagrantino Passito we will pay attention to the winemaking procedures, therefore preferring a wine aged in large cask. As regards the vintage of the two wines, in both cases we will choose bottles belonging to the most recent vintage available on the market. Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito are served in tasting glasses at a temperature of 16°C. (61 °F)

 We are now ready to pour the wines into their respective glasses and begin our tasting by contrast, starting with Recioto della Valpolicella. We tilt the glass over a white surface – as usual, a sheet of paper is enough – and observe the base of the glass, thus evaluating the color. The Venetian wine has an intense and brilliant ruby red color, while as regards transparency – evaluated by placing a contrasting object between the glass and the white surface – it can be defined as moderate and basically low. Let's now evaluate the nuance of the wine, therefore pay our attention towards the opening of the glass, where the wine becomes thin. The nuance of Recioto della Valpolicella is characterized by an evident garnet red hue. Let's move on to evaluating the appearance of Sagrantino Montefalco Passito and, by observing the base of the glass, evaluate its color and transparency. At sight it reveals an intense and dark ruby red, with a decidedly low transparency. The nuances of Umbrian wine are garnet red.

 The aromas of Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito reveal to the nose, in certain aspects, common characteristics and generally perceptible in sweet wines produced from dried grapes. In both cases, in fact, the nose is dominated by sensations of fruits which are mainly reminiscent of black cherry, plum, blueberry and blackberry, as well as floral aromas mainly reminiscent of dried violets. In this regard, however, both the intensity of the individual stimuli and the dominance must be considered. In Recioto della Valpolicella, in fact, the identifying aromas are initially expressed with black cherry and plum, while in Montefalco Sagrantino Passito the blackberry is the dominant olfactory quality, followed by black cherry and plum. Furthermore, in these two wines, an important role is played by aging – in the majority of cases in barrel – and by time. These two factors, in fact, substantially influence the olfactory characteristics of the two wines, obviously enriching them with tertiary sensations and spices. In both wines balsamic aromas are perceived and frequently recalling menthol, as well as ethereal sensations mainly represented by nail polish.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the analysis of the olfactory profiles of Recioto della Valpolicella and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito, starting – as in the previous examination – from the Venetian wine. By holding the glass in vertical position and without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell in order to evaluate the opening, that is, the primary and identifying aromas of the wine. Recioto della Valpolicella expresses to the nose intense and pleasing aromas of black cherry, plum and blackberry, followed by dried violet. Sometimes, according to the producer's style and specific winemaking procedures, fruity aromas can also take on a jammy character. After having swirled the glass, the profile of the Venetian wine is completed with a sequence of tertiary aromas in which we recognize vanilla, cinnamon, cocoa, often mace, as well as balsamic sensations of menthol. Furthermore, in this wine it is frequently possible to perceive the scent of dried rose. Let's now move on to evaluating the opening of the Montefalco Sagrantino Passito: on the nose we clearly perceive the scent of blackberry, followed by black cherry, plum and dried violet. After having swirled the glass, the profile of the wine is completed with blueberry and tamarind, in addition to the tertiary sensations of vanilla, chocolate, tobacco, cinnamon, pink pepper and mace, as well as the pleasing balsamic sensation of menthol.

 Let's now move on to the evaluation of the gustatory profile of the two wines, starting – as in the previous phases – from Recioto della Valpolicella. Let's take a sip of the Venetian wine in order to evaluate its attack, that is, the primary and identifying gustatory sensations. In the mouth we immediately perceive the pleasing sweetness followed by the roundness of alcohol and aging, as well as a moderate and pleasing sensation of astringency, therefore achieving gustatory balance. The flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry are clearly perceived in the mouth, with good structure and decidedly low acidity. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the attack of Montefalco Sagrantino Passito and take the first sip. In the mouth you can immediately perceive the sweetness promptly followed by the astringency of tannins, decidedly more intense and fuller than Recioto della Valpolicella. We can also perceive the roundness given by the effect of alcohol and aging, a decidedly more robust and fuller structure than the other wine. Finally, in the mouth we can also perceive the flavors of blackberry, plum and black cherry.

 We have reached the end of this month's tasting by contrast, so let's proceed with the evaluation of the final sensations that the two wines leave in the mouth after swallowing. One of the main aspects of this test consists in the evaluation of taste-olfactory persistence, that is, the measurement of the time during which it is possible to clearly perceive the gustatory qualities of the wine in the mouth. The finish of Recioto della Valpolicella is persistent and in the mouth we can clearly perceive the intense flavors of black cherry, plum and blackberry, as well as the pleasing sweetness contrasting the astringency of the tannins, which are overall round and pleasing. Even the finish of Montefalco Sagrantino Passito is equally persistent and the flavors of blackberry, black cherry and plum are clearly perceived in the mouth. In this wine we can also perceive the stronger effect of astringency as well as the sensation of fuller structure. Furthermore, the sweetness and roundness are clearly perceptible in the mouth, as well as the pseudo-caloric effect of alcohol. Before concluding, let's proceed with the final smell of the two wines: on the nose they still express a clear difference, despite the strong and common presence of sensations of black and red fruits.