Summer, unbearably hot, like all the last few years – or, perhaps, like all the past years – temperatures have reached such high levels as to cool any past summer record. Summer, no less, is also that critical season in which much of the work and hopes of those who work in agriculture are realized, in a very fragile meteorological balance capable of determining the outcome of the entire working year. Punctually, in summer, the topic of climate change returns – in truth, in recent times, it has been a topic all year round – trying to justify, as much as possible, the incredible increase in summer temperatures compared to the past. The sun, undoubtedly, is indispensable to the activity of any plant organism, just as are other meteorological events, including humidity and the availability of water, especially that which constitutes the very precious water reserves of the subsoil.

 At this time, grape harvesting in Italy, as well as in other wine-growing countries in Europe, has already begun for over a month now and – according to statements by winemakers and trade associations – will be remembered for being among the earliest in recent years. According to estimates by Coldiretti – an Italian association of farmers – the 2024 grape harvest began as early as two weeks in advance, especially in southern Italy, because of the effects of high temperatures and the lack of rain, factors that accelerated the ripening of the grapes. The early start of the grape harvest in Italy is the result, of course, of the meteorological and climatic trend of 2024, which began with decidedly unusual temperatures and higher than the seasonal average. This favored the resumption of the vegetative cycle of the vine and the consequent development, anticipating the budding by about a week compared to what was recorded on average in past years. This condition becomes decidedly critical in case the spring weather conditions become adverse, in particular the sudden drop in temperature.

 According to Coldiretti, the 2024 harvest in Italy will certainly be remembered as the one with the greatest unknowns in recent years, since – in the general picture of the country – the conditions are different in each region. It is not, therefore, a matter of the very early start of the harvest, which will inevitably go on for about four months, due to the huge biodiversity characterizing Italy, including the different styles of wines produced. It must in fact be considered that, in Italy, from North to South, wine production begins with sparkling wines up to the sweet ones from dried grapes, passing through whites, reds, rosés and, last but not least, late harvests. This means that the harvest operations begin as soon as the grapes are ripe depending on the style and variety – the first are always the sparkling wines – often until after November, when the dried grapes are harvested for the production of sweet wines.

 The weather conditions and the progress of the season have determined – this is what Coldiretti said – a clear division between the Northern and Southern regions. In the South of Italy, it is the drought that is causing the most concern, despite – it seems – the vines, in general terms, have managed to face the difficult condition, while the high temperatures have blocked the development of downy mildew. It will be remembered, in this regard, that last year, this very disease caused such extensive damage that it reduced wine production by as much as 11 million hectoliters. In the South of Italy, a harvest of excellent quality grapes is expected, trusting in the arrival of rain, which would ensure a further increase in quality. The situation is very different in the North of Italy where the fate of the vineyards has mainly depended on bad weather, with cloudbursts and hailstorms, events that are certainly not positive in this period of the year and in which the harvest takes place.

 Lombardy – because of the weather – has already announced that the 2024 harvest will probably be 15% lower than last year. In this region, in fact, there was heavy rain, especially during spring and early summer. Added to this were hailstorms, with the consequent development of fungal diseases that forced vintners to intervene in the vineyards with appropriate phytosanitary treatments. Despite these inconveniences, Lombardy is still expecting a quality grape harvest, while maintaining a certain caution on the quantity, also in consideration of the weather trend in September, which is currently unpredictable. According to what was declared by the vintners themselves and their trade associations, the management of the vineyard during 2024 has led to an increase in costs due to the necessary treatments in the vineyard, which will inevitably affect the final price of the wine.

 The same consideration was also made by the vintners of southern Italy, who – so they report - due to the drought conditions and the excessive increase in temperatures, had to resort to appropriate preventive measures. Also in this case, the costs incurred for the management of the vineyard will affect the final price of the wine. As a result of these considerations, it therefore seems inevitable, for the 2024 vintage wines, a final increase in the selling price to the detriment – evidently – of consumers. Exactly as declared by the producers of northern Italy, those of the south also affirm that the quality of the grapes is excellent and high. In short, for the 2024 vintage we will have excellent wines and most likely more expensive. Furthermore, everyone agrees that, due to the unpredictable and unusual weather conditions of recent years, vine cultivation forces vintners to face new challenges every year in Italy, with rapid interventions in the vineyard and not always easy to manage or implement.

  Apparently, Italy is not the only one complaining about the difficulties in the vineyard. In France, again due to the climatic and meteorological conditions of 2024, a significant drop in wine production is expected, so much so that a loss of as high as 16% is estimated compared to 2023 and -3% of the average harvest of the last five years. These estimates suggest that, in France, wine production for 2024 should be between 40 and 43 million hectoliters. These estimates – for what it is worth – could hand over the primacy of wine production to Italy, lost in 2023 to France. The situation is completely different in Spain, where an increase of 20% is expected, with total production estimated at 39.7 million hectoliters. The climatic and meteorological conditions of recent years are undeniably forcing the wine world to face new and important challenges, forcing vintners to think about and implement new strategies and cultivation techniques, which are becoming more and more critical every year. If we also add to this the widespread decline in per capita wine consumption, an uncertain future also looms in terms of marketing. Let us take, however and in any case, the positive side of the current forecasts which give us hope for a 2024 vintage of high and excellent quality. This – for all of us who continue to love and appreciate wine – is certainly the best news, with our glasses already ready to welcome the new wines and how much the 2024 vintage will be able to give to our emotions and our pleasure.

 The ampelography of Italy is undeniably the richest and most vast among the wine-producing countries in the world. A characteristic well known to everyone, made up of hundreds of native varieties to which are added many grapes from other wine-producing countries. Without fear of contradiction, the native Italian varieties can evidently stand up to any comparison with the so-called “international” ones, as they are evidently capable of making wines of the highest quality. One of these, unequivocally, is Sangiovese, the undisputed glory of countless Italian red wines, cultivated in many regions of the country and, in particular, those of the center. Tuscany, in fact, makes Sangiovese its primary viticultural and enological foundation, a grape which is found in dozens of wines, including those with Denominazione d'Origina Controllata (Controlled Denomination of Origin, DOC), also Garantita (Guaranteed, DOCG). Among the many wine-growing areas where Sangiovese is the protagonist of the vineyards, there is Montepulciano – in the province of Siena, Tuscany – famous throughout the world for its Vino Nobile.

 Among the non-native red grape varieties – otherwise known as international – and present in Italy, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon undeniably represent the main share. These two famous and celebrated varieties, notoriously native to France, in particular, the Bordeaux area, have been cultivated in Italy for several decades, now widespread in every region of the country. These two extraordinary varieties, in Italy, are often used together, clearly taking up the habit and technique of Bordeaux production – admirably celebrated in the world – often also with the clear intent of emulating its success. No less, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are often blended with native Italian varieties, including Sangiovese, with results of particular enological and qualitative interest. These two varieties are also present in several Italian Denominazione d'Origine Controllata wines (Controlled Denomination of Origin, DOC), used both as monovarietals, and together, as well as combined with other varieties. This is the case of Valcalepio Rosso – which we will pour in the glass of this month's tasting – in which Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are the only protagonists of this wine.

 The red wines of Montepulciano, in the province of Siena, Tuscany, are certainly among the most famous ones in Italy, with a prestigious history spanning centuries. In these lands, wine production dates back to the Etruscan era, while the first official mention in a written document dates back to 789. The fame and prestige of the wines of Montepulciano was such that specific regulations for trade and export were issued as early as the mid-1300s. Its fame earned it the name of “Rosso Scelto di Montepulciano” (Choice Red of Montepulciano), in order to underline its high and recognized quality. Found on the tables of nobles and popes, the wine of Montepulciano was made immortal by doctor and naturalist Francesco Redi, who – in 1685 – in his famous dithyramb “Bacco in Toscana” (Bacchus in Tuscany) even had the Roman divinity proclaim, by his highest decree, that “Montepulciano is the king of all wines”. If at the time of Francesco Redi, and up until the first decades of 1930, Montepulciano wine was known as “Rosso Scelto”, it later became known as “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” (Noble Wine of Montepulciano), a mention taken from a document from 1787, in which, for the first time, the wine was defined in this way.

 While it is true that Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among the first DOC wines in Italy, as well as among the first DOCGs in the country, the history of Rosso di Montepulciano is actually much more recent. This wine – which should not be confused with Vino Nobile – was officially recognized in 1988 when the relative Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Controlled Denomination of Origin, DOC) was established. In its current definition, Rosso di Montepulciano is produced with at least 70% Sangiovese – which here is also known as Prugnolo Gentile – and the remaining part from complementary grapes allowed for cultivation in Tuscany, admitting a maximum of 5% of white grape varieties. In the majority of cases, however, the complementary portion of Rosso di Montepulciano is made up of red grape varieties, particularly Canaiolo Nero, Colorino and Mammolo, although non-native varieties are also used. As far as winemaking is concerned, producers tend to use techniques – so to speak – lighter than those used for Vino Nobile, and therefore it is not uncommon to find bottles exclusively aged in inert containers as well as in wooden barrels.

 When you think of the wines of the Bergamo area – in Lombardy – inevitably, the one that conquers the podium in the imagination of enthusiasts is Moscato di Scanzo. An extraordinary wine, today recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin, DOCG), it boasts a history and prestige dating back to the time of the ancient Romans. A rare and sought-after wine, today Moscato di Scanzo is no longer the only wine representing the enology of the province of Bergamo, as in recent decades the wines of the Valcalepio and Terre dei Colleoni denominations have also been gaining increasing notoriety. The Valcalepio area – today recognized as a Denominazione d'Origine Controllata, DOC – from a viticultural and enological point of view, certainly represents the relaunch of Bergamo's wine production. The enological development of Valcalepio dates back to the beginning of the 1970s, culminating in 1976 with the recognition of the Controlled Denomination of Origin. This was the first important step that led to the creation of a defined winemaking and viticultural system, made of white, red, red reserve and Moscato passito (sweet) styles.

 Except for Valcalepio Moscato Passito, the wines of this area are entirely produced with non-native varieties, specifically, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon for the reds, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay for the whites. As for Valcalepio Rosso – the style we are examining in our tasting – the composition of the wine provides for Merlot from 40 to 75% and Cabernet Sauvignon from 25 to 60%. In general terms, the most frequent choice of producers is to use the two grapes in equal parts, therefore opting for a perfect balance in terms of composition. Valcalepio Rosso provides for an aging period of at least one year, with a minimum of three months in wooden containers, a period which is increased to three years for the reserve style, with a minimum of 12 months in cask. The two Bordeaux grapes give Valcalepio Rosso a perceptible structure, a characteristic which is further enhanced by the mandatory aging in wood, especially in the case of the reserve style.

The color of Rosso di Montepulciano

 Before pouring the wines of tasting by contrast into their respective glasses, let's find the two bottles. Although these are wines which are quite popular, of the two the Rosso di Montepulciano is certainly the one to be more easily available, thanks, above all, to the greater quantity produced. The two wines will in any case be easily available in any well-stocked wine shop. As for Rosso di Montepulciano, our choice is in favor of a bottle produced with at least 70% Sangiovese, while the remaining part is made up of Canaiolo Nero, Colorino and Mammolo. We will also make sure the wine has been aged in cask for a few months. The choice of Valcalepio Rosso does not require particular attention to the composition of the grapes as – in any case – both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are used. However, we will make sure the two grapes are present in equal quantities, while for the aging we will choose a wine which has spent a few months in cask. In both cases we will choose bottles belonging to the most recent vintages and will be poured into the respective tasting glasses at a temperature of 18 °C (65 °F).

 We can now begin the evaluation of the two wines, starting – as usual – with the analysis of their appearance, that is, how they appear to the eye in terms of color and transparency. To do this, we will need a white surface, such as a sheet of paper, over which we will tilt the glass. Let's start with Rosso di Montepulciano and proceed with the analysis of its color, after having tilted the glass over the white surface. By observing the base, we can see a bright ruby red color, while placing an object in contrast between the glass and the white surface, we can evaluate the transparency, in this case of medium intensity. Let's now evaluate the nuances of Rosso di Montepulciano by observing the edge of the wine towards the opening of the glass, an operation that will allow us to see a ruby red hue, therefore confirming the base color. Let's now move on to the analysis of the appearance of the Valcalepio Rosso and, by observing the base of the glass, we can see an intense ruby red color with a transparency which is decidedly lower than Rosso di Montepulciano. The nuances of the Lombard wine confirm the base color, that is, ruby red.

 The olfactory profiles of Rosso di Montepulciano and Valcalepio Rosso present substantial differences to the nose, mainly because of the grapes used for their composition. Sangiovese in the case of Rosso di Montepulciano, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in that of Valcalepio Rosso, varieties which can certainly be defined as distant in olfactory terms. Although in Rosso di Montepulciano other varieties are generally present in addition to Sangiovese, it is the latter which imparts the primary olfactory character of the wine. From the glass of the Tuscan wine, in fact, can be clearly appreciated the aromas of black cherry, plum and raspberry, frequently followed by the floral sensations of violet and rose. The profile of wines produced with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon – like Valcalepio Rosso – is very different, and they are recognized to the nose for the intense aroma of blackcurrant, followed by black cherry and plum, in addition to the floral notes of violet and, very often, iris. In the specific case of the two wines in our tasting, finally, the aromas conferred by aging and time will also be perceived, qualities which must be properly considered in the overall olfactory profile.

 Let's resume our tasting by contrast and proceed with the evaluation of the olfactory profiles of Rosso di Montepulciano and Valcalepio Rosso. The first wine we examine is, as in the previous phase, Rosso di Montepulciano. By keeping the glass in a vertical position and, without swirling, let's proceed with the first smell in order to appreciate its opening. To the nose can be perceived clean and intense aromas of black cherry, plum and violet, a decidedly typical opening for wines in which Sangiovese is present. After swirling the glass and proceeding with the second smell, the olfactory profile of the Tuscan wine is completed with the aromas of rose, raspberry, blueberry and blackberry, in addition to the tertiary sensations typical of the aging in cask. Let's now move on to the evaluation of the opening of Valcalepio Rosso, therefore by keeping the glass in a vertical position and without swirling it. To the nose can be perceived intense and clean aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry and blueberry, followed by the pleasing scent of violet. After swirling the glass and doing a second smell, Valcalepio Rosso completes its profile with iris and blueberry, in addition to the tertiary sensations given by the aging in wood.

 Let's now move on to evaluating the gustatory profiles of the wines of our tasting by contrast, starting – as in the previous phases – with Rosso di Montepulciano. We take a sip of the Tuscan wine and proceed with the evaluation of the attack, that is, the initial gustatory sensations perceived in the mouth. The opening of Rosso di Montepulciano is strongly characterized by Sangiovese, therefore in the mouth we perceive a good structure with pleasing crispness given by the acidity, finding the gustatory balance thanks to the contribution of roundness, that of alcohol in particular. The astringency is perceptible and of medium intensity, a sensation further strengthened by the effect of Canaiolo Nero. In the mouth we perceive the flavors of black cherry, plum and raspberry, therefore finding good correspondence with the nose. The attack of Valcalepio Rosso is decidedly different: in this case, in addition to the fuller structure, it can be mainly perceived a pleasing roundness – thanks both to Merlot and the aging in the cask – while the astringency is generally more intense than in Tuscan wine. In the mouth can be clearly perceived the flavors of blackcurrant, black cherry, plum and blueberry.

 We have reached the end of this month's tasting by contrast, we therefore proceed to the evaluation of the final sensations that Rosso di Montepulciano and Valcalepio Rosso leave in the mouth after swallowing. In particular, we will evaluate the taste-olfactory persistence, that is, the measure of the time during which it is possible to perceive the primary organoleptic qualities of the wine in the mouth before they completely fade away. The finish of Rosso di Montepulciano is persistent and in the mouth we can continue perceiving both the pleasing crispness given by the acidity and the good structure, in addition to the flavors of black cherry, plum and raspberry. The finish of Valcalepio Rosso is equally persistent and, compared to Rosso di Montepulciano, in the mouth we can continue perceiving mainly an appreciable roundness, in addition to the moderate astringency, although more intense than the Tuscan wine. In the mouth can also be perceived the flavors of blackcurrant, plum, black cherry and blueberry. Before concluding our tasting, let's do a final smell of the two glasses, first Rosso di Montepulciano and then Valcalepio Rosso: the differences are still evident and, no less, very distant.

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